Tips for RHD conversion.
11-15-2005, 09:19 PM
#1
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Tips for RHD conversion.
Ok I am nearing the end of the conversion.
Here is how it is done.
First you have to get a donor clip.
I got mine from Superior Trading International in Texas.
You can talk to Jimmy or Matt. Seem to be good guys who take pride in what they do. Very helpful in getting me what I needed.
Ok for the swap.
Take alot of photos of both cars in the areas that you will be changing.
Remove everything from the donor clip...All the inside stuff, dash wiring EVERYTHING.
Do the same in the engine bay.
Remove all the seam sealer around the firewall and then the floor pan about the area where the floot mats are.
Locate your spot welds. There are alot of them. Get some oil to keep the drill bits cool. I used some Lucas oil stabilizer as it is thicker and does not fly off the drill bit tip.
Now get you a drill and a couple drill bits. Start with a small one and hit all the spot welds that you see holding in the firewall. Then you will find some acrossed the floor pan. I don't recall what size bit I used but you can tell what you need bt the size of the spot welds.
Be sure you get the tabs on the kick panels. They have to be swapped. (TAKE MEASUREMENTS).
After you have done this the piece will pretty much just lift out and look like this.
Remove your windshield.
Do the same on both cars
After you have removed both firewalls, simply drop your RHD one in the place where you removed the LHD one.
I used a mig welder and filled in all the spot welds and walla it was solid.
Grind all your welds clean and primer them or hit them with some spray paint to prevent rusting.
After you have done this you need to seam seal everything.
It took 4 tubes of seam sealer to do this. Available at any parts house for about 10 to 14 bucks a tube.
I took this time to repaint my engine bay since there was nothing in it.
Ok now we get to put it back together.
Here is a list of the things that are a must to be changed.
If you have a 5 speed.........You must swap the pedals......At least the brake and gas. The brake light switch gets in the way if you try to reuse your pedals. You will also want to swap out your brake light switch as they are different. one has 2 wires and the other 4.......I don't recall which. No brainer just trust me on this.
THE DASH!!!!..... Heater box assembly.
You will need main crossmember, rack and pinion, steering column or at least the controls, ALL the brake lines, the clutch lines and resevoir with bracket, (BE SURE YOU GET THE RUBBER HOSE FOR THE CLUTCH. The threads are smaller), Power Steering Hoses (make sure they do not cut them, they like to cut everything when they yank the motor.) If you use your stock wiring harness like I did you will have to lengthen the 2 wires for the power steering pressure switch. Windshield wiper assembly and wiper arms, air conditioning lines, under hood fuse panel, battery tray, hood release cable and lever (gas door lever too), throttle cable,
I think thats all........If I recall something I will edit this.
All of the holes for relocating everything are already there.
As I said before I used the stock LHD wiring harness.
I simply flipped it 180 degrees and stuck it back through the firewall. As I am also hiding the wiring at the same time of my conversion I hid the plugs behind the engine in loom. I had to lengthen the 2 wires to each of the plugs on the clutch pedal and the 3 wires on the sunroof power plug. I removed the headliner and untaped the wires for the dome light and moved the wires to the other side. Now you have to move the rear harness over to the right side. It's pretty straight forward. Now the problem you are going to have is the blinkers will not be right...When you hit the right the left will come on........To fix this. There is a 3 pin plug on the steering column at top. (Same side as the blinkers) I don't recall the color combo (looked at schematic in haynes manual ) Just swap the 2 of them that are 12v (the 3rd is a ground) Problem solved.
Will update if I forgot anything..........Hope this clears up any guesswork for those of you interested.
Any questions or comments that are constructive are welcomed.
E.Honda
Here is how it is done.
First you have to get a donor clip.
I got mine from Superior Trading International in Texas.
You can talk to Jimmy or Matt. Seem to be good guys who take pride in what they do. Very helpful in getting me what I needed.
Ok for the swap.
Take alot of photos of both cars in the areas that you will be changing.
Remove everything from the donor clip...All the inside stuff, dash wiring EVERYTHING.
Do the same in the engine bay.
Remove all the seam sealer around the firewall and then the floor pan about the area where the floot mats are.
Locate your spot welds. There are alot of them. Get some oil to keep the drill bits cool. I used some Lucas oil stabilizer as it is thicker and does not fly off the drill bit tip.
Now get you a drill and a couple drill bits. Start with a small one and hit all the spot welds that you see holding in the firewall. Then you will find some acrossed the floor pan. I don't recall what size bit I used but you can tell what you need bt the size of the spot welds.
Be sure you get the tabs on the kick panels. They have to be swapped. (TAKE MEASUREMENTS).
After you have done this the piece will pretty much just lift out and look like this.
Remove your windshield.
Do the same on both cars
After you have removed both firewalls, simply drop your RHD one in the place where you removed the LHD one.
I used a mig welder and filled in all the spot welds and walla it was solid.
Grind all your welds clean and primer them or hit them with some spray paint to prevent rusting.
After you have done this you need to seam seal everything.
It took 4 tubes of seam sealer to do this. Available at any parts house for about 10 to 14 bucks a tube.
I took this time to repaint my engine bay since there was nothing in it.
Ok now we get to put it back together.
Here is a list of the things that are a must to be changed.
If you have a 5 speed.........You must swap the pedals......At least the brake and gas. The brake light switch gets in the way if you try to reuse your pedals. You will also want to swap out your brake light switch as they are different. one has 2 wires and the other 4.......I don't recall which. No brainer just trust me on this.
THE DASH!!!!..... Heater box assembly.
You will need main crossmember, rack and pinion, steering column or at least the controls, ALL the brake lines, the clutch lines and resevoir with bracket, (BE SURE YOU GET THE RUBBER HOSE FOR THE CLUTCH. The threads are smaller), Power Steering Hoses (make sure they do not cut them, they like to cut everything when they yank the motor.) If you use your stock wiring harness like I did you will have to lengthen the 2 wires for the power steering pressure switch. Windshield wiper assembly and wiper arms, air conditioning lines, under hood fuse panel, battery tray, hood release cable and lever (gas door lever too), throttle cable,
I think thats all........If I recall something I will edit this.
All of the holes for relocating everything are already there.
As I said before I used the stock LHD wiring harness.
I simply flipped it 180 degrees and stuck it back through the firewall. As I am also hiding the wiring at the same time of my conversion I hid the plugs behind the engine in loom. I had to lengthen the 2 wires to each of the plugs on the clutch pedal and the 3 wires on the sunroof power plug. I removed the headliner and untaped the wires for the dome light and moved the wires to the other side. Now you have to move the rear harness over to the right side. It's pretty straight forward. Now the problem you are going to have is the blinkers will not be right...When you hit the right the left will come on........To fix this. There is a 3 pin plug on the steering column at top. (Same side as the blinkers) I don't recall the color combo (looked at schematic in haynes manual ) Just swap the 2 of them that are 12v (the 3rd is a ground) Problem solved.
Will update if I forgot anything..........Hope this clears up any guesswork for those of you interested.
Any questions or comments that are constructive are welcomed.
E.Honda
11-15-2005, 09:28 PM
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Re: Tips for RHD conversion. (boosted_elf)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted_elf »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">too much work</TD></TR></TABLE> 
11-16-2005, 12:50 AM
#7
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Re: (disabled)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by disabled »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good job for getting it done, but why?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dare to be different.
Dare to be different.
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11-16-2005, 01:01 AM
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Re: (NrG)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NrG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is the correct way to do the conversion. NEVER weld on the front clip by the a piller and lower frame.
e.honda, did you relocate the trunk/gas latch?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes I relocated everthing.
I agree
NEVER cut the car in half.
e.honda, did you relocate the trunk/gas latch?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes I relocated everthing.
I agree
NEVER cut the car in half.
11-16-2005, 01:07 AM
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Re: (delLudeVTEC)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by delLudeVTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So how long from start to finish, without paint, does a project like this take?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I did the majority of the work by myself. If all I wanted to do was the RHD swap and be back on the road. 4 days working 4 to 6 hours each night.
I took the time and had all the suspension and many other parts powder coated. Will post some pics tonight of the finished engine bay.
Thanks for the question...
E.Honda
I did the majority of the work by myself. If all I wanted to do was the RHD swap and be back on the road. 4 days working 4 to 6 hours each night.
I took the time and had all the suspension and many other parts powder coated. Will post some pics tonight of the finished engine bay.
Thanks for the question...
E.Honda
11-16-2005, 01:24 AM
#13
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Re: (E.Honda)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E.Honda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes I relocated everthing.
I agree NEVER cut the car in half.</TD></TR></TABLE>
do people really cut their cars in half for rhd, lol~
I agree
NEVER cut the car in half.</TD></TR></TABLE>do people really cut their cars in half for rhd, lol~
11-16-2005, 01:29 AM
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Re: (reza")
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by reza" »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
do people really cut their cars in half for rhd, lol~</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have heard people talk about doing it.
do people really cut their cars in half for rhd, lol~</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have heard people talk about doing it.
11-16-2005, 02:12 AM
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Re: Re: (JDM INSPIRED)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM INSPIRED »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanx for the info...been looking for that... </TD></TR></TABLE>
Glad I could help.
E.Honda
</TD></TR></TABLE>Glad I could help.
E.Honda
11-16-2005, 02:38 AM
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Re: (FrankWrong)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FrankWrong »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Honestly, for the price of parts + labor + the fact that you're using your car, I'd rather pay to have a car brought over here, depending on what model car it was of course.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I made a profit by doing it myself.
I sold the extra parts from the RHD clip and my LHD parts I removed.
I made a profit by doing it myself.
I sold the extra parts from the RHD clip and my LHD parts I removed.
11-16-2005, 02:48 AM
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Re: (E.Honda)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E.Honda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I made a profit by doing it myself.
I sold the extra parts from the RHD clip and my LHD parts I removed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Smart! That's props to you.
I forgot to add that I could not live with myself having a VIN off another car, etc.
If I were to get a RHD car, I want a brand new vin# issued to me
from your standpoint though.
I sold the extra parts from the RHD clip and my LHD parts I removed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Smart! That's props to you.
I forgot to add that I could not live with myself having a VIN off another car, etc.
If I were to get a RHD car, I want a brand new vin# issued to me
from your standpoint though.
11-16-2005, 10:03 AM
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Re: (J_SpeC_EK)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J_SpeC_EK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good stuff .. what part of Ms you from?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Tupelo
.. what part of Ms you from?</TD></TR></TABLE>Tupelo
11-16-2005, 10:13 AM
#22
Sensational
Theres a 240SX with a Silvia front clip welded on, its funny seeing that boro car bouncing around town, it will be funny if it breaks in half on the freeway.
11-16-2005, 10:23 AM
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Re: (E.Honda)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E.Honda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Tupelo</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow i use to live in tupelo...Moved to TN when i was in 6th grade...I had a really good friend down there..Maybe you know him...his name is Jake Smith?
Tupelo</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow i use to live in tupelo...Moved to TN when i was in 6th grade...I had a really good friend down there..Maybe you know him...his name is Jake Smith?
11-16-2005, 10:52 AM
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Re: (LudeSH)
I have a RHD EG-4. I think that it is a half of a car, and not just the fire wall replaced. I have some weld spots on the inside of the doors. All the people that have taken a close look at my car say it's a really clean job... Whats wrong with the half/car conversion???