DXR

Well... this is a little life story of my car for the introduction:
http://geocities.com/novs26_84/dxr.html
and well i used DuPont's 2K Urethane Single Stage Paint to paint it and did so at my house in cold temperatures (low 60s high 50s) The paint came out really orange peelie... like REALLY BAD to where people ask when i will do the clear coat or what color i'll do next (as if my color now is primer) well i have tried to color sand with 3M 2000gritt wetordry sandpaper and gone over it with Meguires Diamond Cut compound and then over that with Meguires hand polish compound. it is nice and smooth but it is still not as shiny as i thought it woul be and i hear if i go over it with a coat of clear, then it will wrinkle up the paint htat's already on there? well i need some help, let me know, thanks.

tnbigdawg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DXR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well... this is a little life story of my car for the introduction:
http://geocities.com/novs26_84/dxr.html
and well i used DuPont's 2K Urethane Single Stage Paint to paint it and did so at my house in cold temperatures (low 60s high 50s) The paint came out really orange peelie... like REALLY BAD to where people ask when i will do the clear coat or what color i'll do next (as if my color now is primer) well i have tried to color sand with 3M 2000gritt wetordry sandpaper and gone over it with Meguires Diamond Cut compound and then over that with Meguires hand polish compound. it is nice and smooth but it is still not as shiny as i thought it woul be and i hear if i go over it with a coat of clear, then it will wrinkle up the paint htat's already on there? well i need some help, let me know, thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You did mix the paint correctly... right?

A big mistake people usually make is going with SSU....Even the pros recommend the beginers use the B/C system. Concentrating on only base...then later concentrating on the clear, instead of concentrating both on shine and coverage.

Anyways,

-You can only sand the SSU so much because if you cut through the shiny layer you'll lose the clear and/or discolor the paint.

-Cut and buffing is usually done the next day after the paint has dried. Doing it later(say, about a month or two) can be pretty difficult. It can be done, but i takes much longer and more hard work.
Make sure you are using the right equipment: Rotory polisher (Makita recommended) with a variable speed control. Start with a wool cutting pad at about 900-1200 rpms with your diamond cut.
Then after you achieve a shine, switch over to a foam polishing pad and use a maching polishing compound, then a hand glaze.

-You can opt to reclear your SSU: wet sand with 600-800 grit and apply your SSU(you need at leaast one more coat for adhesion), then your clear(a compatible clear- ask your supplier or research dupont's products).

It will work because the SSU is a catylized product and should hold up to the new solvents.

If you have more questions, just ask.

Goodluck.

tnbigdawg

DXR

yeah, i mixed the paint correctly... 8:1:2 color, catalyst, and reducer respectively as labelled on the canister. At first, i started to spray it and the metallic began to RUN. not the paint itself, but the metallic inside the paint. i had prepped for over 18 hours and i was going to cry when i saw this. but i just kept going at it. eventually, the metallic would lay down correctly. after that happened, i started to just go over the car with layers and layers of paint because it wouldn't smooth out but orange peel like crazy. I sat and sprayed the whole car for 2 hours back and fourth hoping it would even out. I think i've got quite a few layers. but low and behold, it even out. the paint job is a week and 2 days old as of today. I think i can obtain some of those equipment in which you spoke of but i actually want to try to avoid doing that and FIND a clear that will ne compatable with the SSU. I don't know for sure but i've heard that if i do try to use the basic two stage clear on what i have even with sanding, it will lift my existing paint and wrinkle it up which will make me bawl like a baby. So, i guess the treck is out to find something that will be compatable with my stuff. So you're saying that clear should work? do you think i should just mask off like a rear mirror and try it and see if anything ahppens? thanks a lot.

HondaCutter

the first coat probably wasn't completely dry when you started putting the second coat on. this happened to me before. also, it seems like this happens alot with metallic paints. they're just hard to paint I guess.

Mr. Softee

you need to rebuff with a less aggressive compound after the diamond cut (the most aggressive). diamond cut is supposed to leave it hazy.

tnbigdawg

Edit: if you haven't sanded the paint yet for a reclear job, then I suggest that you try to buff it again with proper equipment. This may save you time and money.

I forgot to ask you what type of buffing/polishing machine did you use?

Well, unless you have sanded through your paint, applying clear over it shouldn't be a problem. If you did sand through to the primer or something, then either spot prime with 2K primer and then block sand it, or just spot paint your SSU then apply clear over the whole panel.

I stated above to use at least one more coat of your SSU to help seal your paint and promote adhesion(because its compatible:same paint). This will help keep it from lifting.

If you want to be safe, then yeah go ahead and try painting something smaller first.

Also, exactly how many coats did you apply? This is probably one of your problems. Should have just taken no more than 4 coats. What type of gun are you using? Is it set up right? Remember HVLP guns require A LOT OF CFMs. Do you have good gun control and technique? How long have you been painting, experience wise?

Next time use a BC/CC system instead of singlestage even if you're a beginer. SS Metalics are hard to achieve good coverage and shine at the same time.(reason being, what I stated earlier in my other post).