andronik

Hi, I have a similar problem with my 2003 accord, First thing my radio stopped working "no back light, no sound" but havc and A/C unit works fine. I got another radio and try to swap it, radio works fine but hvac and a/c doesn't work at all, fan not blowing on any speed. I put back the old radio and came back to previous situation where no radio but heat and ac works. So, I know there is something wrong in radio-a/c-hvac unit. I did try to swap the radio units itself but it didn't work out, original one has only single disk and one i got has a cd changer. Any ideas ? Please need your help. Here is a youtube link what it does

cchhuucckk

Hey, New guy here hoping someone can answer this one about blower resistor...
When I jump the resistor connector to send 12v to the blower motor, it'll start turning and then it quits right away, it's not blowing any fuses...is that kinda proof that the blower motor is shot.?? My symptoms were that it was getting slower and slower on a two hour trip yesterday and finally nothing. If I wait ten minutes or so, it'll come back on and run for a couple minutes, but then quits again, is that the resistor heating up and failing or maybe an overload circuit in the motor??
THnkas in advance for any help,
Terry

tamboo

jump the motor direct to 12v, if it works test resistor.
if it fails replace and reset ecu.

cchhuucckk

Thanks very much, I replaced the blower motor which was definitely bad and the resistor part cause I was getting resistance where there shouldn’t have been any compared to a nib part, Working great now, THnkas for the reply,
Take care,
Terry

Square Head

I'm having the same problem in an 04 Odyssey, so thanks to all for the tips and especially part sources and numbers for the repair of the resistor. One thing that I didn't see discussed was the reasons that a blower motor might start to draw more amps, so here's what I'll be doing as part of the repair. Once I figure out how to get the blower motor/assembly out, I'm going to relube the bushings of the motor itself. I've fixed a lot of fan motors of various types over the years, and when the bushings "dry out" the motor doesn't turn easily enough and the motor really heats up. Most motor shaft bushings are made of oil bearing bronze, meaning they can absorb and hold some oil so that it's not just the properties of the bronze that provide low friction for the motor shaft to turn. Sometimes it's not enough oil left, others it's that the oil has gotten gummy/sticky due to age or contamination. I start out with applying penetrating oil where the motor shaft enters the front and rear bushings to clean out the space between the two. I turn the back end up and put the oil on while letting it run (jumpers) while I drip on the oil, and then do the same for the front end till the motor spins up fast and nice as soon as it's powered on. Then I use either 3 in 1 for motors or the Zoomspout stuff which is supposedly turbine rated and that I let soak in, periodically powering up the motor to help draw in the oil. Same as before, front facing up for a while then back facing up so the oil can sit around the shaft at the bushing and get into the bushing/shaft area. On some large, expensive motors the bushings can be replaced, but little ones are rarely built that way nowadays. I also read a tip once where the guy pulled the bushings, submerged them in a dish of oil in a bell jar then pulled a vacuum on the set up which sucked the air out of the bushings (tiny bubbles). When the bubbles ceased he let up on the vacuum and let it sit so that the oil got sucked back into the bushing since it was still had low internal pressure vs. the now normal air pressure in the bell jar. I'll update when I do what I described for small motors on the Ody.

UPDATE: I pulled the motor and it's rotation was only a little stiff, but using WD 40 and then the Zoomspout oil made a slight improvement. I ended up being able to let the motor sit for several hours while the oil soaked into each end. Too little room there to drip the oil while running it, just filled the area around the shaft. Less oil spray mess. You'll see. I also vac'd out a lot of graphite dust from the brush area thru the vent holes on the side and top of the motor housing which you'll see when it's all apart. I don't know what effect the conductive dust might have on amps drawn or etc. Brushes were still fine as were their contact surfaces on the rotor. To begin, once you have the assembly off the Ody and the 2 screws out of the end, the motor/squirrel cage slides out. It's tight, don't twist since the motor itself plugs into spade terminals that you can't see till it's out. Take the hose clamp off the cage and gently pry the tab underneath away from the slot on the shaft. The shaft on mine was a bit rusty so I ended up using a nail set to drive the shaft far enough out of the cage (while holding the cage) till I could slide it the rest of the way. Sanded off the rust a bit. The OEM resistor had only one cooling vane which was pretty corroded/covered with oxidation (which means it couldn't dump heat quite as well), and since the aftermarket has 4 vanes I decided not to repair the OEM one. I cleaned the fine dust off the cage vanes which involved the use of Q tips since that's all I had that could get in there to dislodge what the hose didn't blast away. When I put the assembly back in and powered it up (on high since the new resistor isn't here yet,) I could hear the motor continue to turn a bit after I cut power to it so that says to me that it's not time for a new one. That might be a good test of the motor bushing condition, turn it on in a quiet place without the engine running and listen for how long it turns once power is cut. mine was about 2 1/2 seconds which seems OK, air braking of the cage etc accounted for. If anyone bought a new blower assembly please tell us how easily it turned compared to the one you replaced. Hope all this is helpful.

Pedro777

I have a 2003 Honda Accord and was running the AC last week when it suddenly cut out. The fuse was not blown so I purchased a new heater resistor and replaced it. Now the fan is stuck on high and I cannot shut it off or increase or decrease its speed using the dashboard fan switch.

My theory is that there is something wrong with the dashboard switch but cannot find a post explaining how to test it or replace it. I hate tearing apart the dash to get to the switch and would not want to do so without knowing for sure that is the problem.

I agree with the person who posted that a blown resistor is likely an effect, not a cause. Any suggestions?

Jce2525

2008 Honda Accord ex, would not blow air at all on any setting. I tapped my blower motor lightly a few times with a flip-flop and it's working great for now. I'm sure that means I'll be replacing my blower motor eventually. But wanted to put a reply because I used all these sites to figure out what was wrong and it was great to try this little trick to determine it wasn't any of the other problems suggested among the many websites.

joestone

I had the same problem as the original poster custm-1. The fans would turn on for a few seconds and then stop. Blower did not turn on at all. Replacing the "IntermotorBlower Motor Resistor" and the cabin air filters fixed the problem. HTH

TheCoolNamesAre

I have a similar issue with my 06 accord with one exception. My blower will work fine, when I turn my car off and restart it later, it doesn't work. Sometimes it will come back to life but usually when I restarted the car again to go somewhere else.