redbull-1

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showpo...8&postcount=13

crashman

I have a 07 Accord that as others seem to be having problems with, three windows that wont go up or down. The additional problem that I have not seen here is that I have no juice to the fuse block for them. The drivers window works great. The box under the hood says that all the electric should be coming on one circuit, along with the ignition power. I am at a loss as to where to look now. Can you help

Skax

This is just stupid. Honda needs to recall them. The same thing started happening to me today and ill be damned if im EVER paying 200 bux for a pos like that.

DiamondGirl4

Same exact problem for me today too...I don't want to spend any more money on this car. What are the chances Honda will take of this?

vikemose

Hey guys,
Where did you ground the white/green stripe wire? I have the same issue, i.e. Driver's side window works... all other windows click. I have the master switch removed with connectors still installed and a jumper made up.
Thanks in advance

Gen7K24

same problem with.my 06 not sure if it my motor or switch it clicks but dosent move, would it be covered under the bumper to bumber warranty? by the way its a coupe an jus the passenger side window


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soon2bdropped

ground it to pin 1. very first black thick wire..

architectdave

My wifes 07 Accord was flooded in a terrible thunder storm and now her car has the same window problem. Drivers window works but the other three just click when you pres the button. I jumped the green stripe wire to ground like you said and it works just like you said. Thanks a bunch for that tech tip. Now here is my queestion. Since the drivers window works there must be another ground in that harness. I want to just jump the good ground to the defective one so I dont have to pay $200 for a new switch. Is there a wiring diagram online or can you tell me which wire is the other ground?

Much thanks.

Dave

Tripsterina

I have a 2005 Accord 4 door that has the same problem. driver window works fine but the other three windows just click. I'll try the jumper wire to test it out. If the windows work then I need a new control unit? So the new power control unit costs $200 huh?? Seems like a lot for such a common problem. Is this a design problem with that switch that it breaks for so many people?

Tripsterina

I tried to ground the green and white wire and all it did was blow a 20amp fuse. Any other ideas anyone to test my problem??

vikemose

All,
If the jumper wire works just continue to use it. do not buy another control unit. I figured out which terminals they were (I don't remember which ones anymore) I made a jumper for mine (about 2 inches long and crimped small pins on both ends), stuffed it in both terminals and put the control unit back in. all 4 windows worked and still work today... and it was about a $1 fix. I went through this about a year ago. no problems since.

Tripsterina

Hi all. I could not get the jumper wire to work. It just blew a 20 amp fuse. So I assumed my problem was a control box and went to a junk yard and bought a used one for $50. I put it in and all windows work fine. When I took the old unit out, I noticed the switch that controls (or locks out) the other 3 windows is not a simple on/off switch with two wires connected to it. It is actually wired into a computer type board on the bottom of the unit, which is why you can't simply replace the switch. I think the board shorts out when you open the door in the rain and renders the switch inoperable. So be careful out there y'all.
ps. If Mr Tech could tell us with a little more detail which two terminals to jump, we could do that and not have to buy another unit from a junk yard or a new one. Thanks!

Tripsterina

I replaced my window control box and all windows work fine now, but my key button will not work the locks or trunk. Does anyone know how to reprogram the key? Or do I have to go to the Dealer to have it reprogrammed?? thanks.

Daniel Blair

-- ty ty for this post 3 fuses and a lot of cussing later I finally got 2 windows to roll down now I have 3 down... woot... and since my ac is fd up now also needed this bad.... any helpful tips on where the most common place for 06 Hondas to leak freon from I tried adding Freon and it just blows it all into the fan. And is the black wire beside the green/white wire a ground and could u just rig it up where u can hook a wire to both of them and rig it like that without any major problems to wiring??

Daniel Blair

you grounded the wrong green/white wire its actually white/green its in between a blue and black I did the same thing on mine and blew 3 fuses before I noticed there was another green and white wire on the opposite side of the harness.

Robo-Cross

Thank you, htech17! Your instructions worked (on the 2nd repetition) for a driver window problem I was having with my 2010 Acura TSX.
The window was getting to the closed position and then reversing as if it had encountered an obstruction--my 9-year-old's wrist, for example.
Anyway, I followed your directions and the window works great.
Thanks again.

bassam80

hi guys
i have the same problem could any one explain w pics how can i make jumper wire

pinotmike

For those who are interested Majestic Honda has a replacement Power Window Master Switches for ~$139. I bought one for my 2006 Accord SE last week. Cheaper then Autozone or my local dealer.

www.hondaautomotiveparts.com

tkamal

I had the same problem with my Honda accord 2007, where the front passenger and the back windows will not scroll down. I followed what Justin suggested. In the 23 pin connector, I used a jumper to connect the mentioned wire (white wire with a green stripe) to the black wire, which is to its left. The black wire in the connector works as a ground. This solved the problem.

jayte

Many thanks to justinsbg for his help in diagnosing the problem!

* 'Just finished replacing the master power window switch on my 2007 Accord, and I wish to share my joy and lessons learned.

* To confirm that I have the same problem as described, I connected a jumper wire from the white/green wire to the negative/black terminal of the battery (somehow simply connecting to the car's body does not work.) Yes, with the connection, 'was able to raise the windows for the time being (for 2-months).

* I bought the replacement(part) from Sterling McCall Honda Parts
(http://www.g1parts.com):

Part Name: SWITCH ASSY
Part Number: 35754-SDA-405
Price: $130.61

'Got the "cheapest part referral" from another forum. For reference:
http://www.hondaaccordforum.com/foru...roblems-32683/

For those with the same problem, my best wishes to your efforts.

kgfisher68

I just wanted to chime in as I had the same window problem with my 2007 Accord EX-L. The passenger and the 2 back windows just stopped working one day while the driver's window worked fine. Due to reading a lot on this forum I thought the likely culprit was the master switch. I ordered one on eBay for $93 and tried to install it but it did not want to synch up 100% with the 30 pin connector and it did not work. I was trying to avoid paying the Honda dealer $200+ for a new switch. I ended up going to a Honda salvage yard and buying a Honda salvage switch from the same generation Accord and it popped right in perfectly and everything works fine.

Thanks for all the great comments and help here. It saved me a bunch of money.

kalazar 10

Hi, I have a 2007 Honda accord. I'm having the same problem with the passenger side and both rear windows but in my case jumping the green/white wire did not change anything I still just got the same clicking noise I get from the switch. Any one have any ideas?

vikemose

which wire did you jump it to? I went through some old notes and found that it should be jumped to pin 1 or the very first black thick wire.

when i did it i heard a clicking noise like a relay was going off. hope it works.

i still have mine installed and haven't had to change it or had any problems.

ClayDorris

I used the following instructions and fixed the problem with my passenger and rear right and left window switches on my '07 Accord Sedan and saved 200 bucks!. Thank goodness for these forums!


At the 23 pin white connector on the multiplex unit there is a white/green (white wire with a green stripe). The wire has a solid black wire and a solid blue wire beside of it. It's the only white/green wire in the connector so it should be easy to locate. With the ignition switch in the on position and the connector plugged up, with a jumper wire ground the white/green wire to body. Once that is done see if you can work the 3 windows up and down. Let me know what you find.


With the white and green wire grounded, I am able to operate all 4 windows. Removing the ground I cannot operate the other three windows.


ground it to pin 1. very first black thick wire..


Using the picture I posted in post #3, at the 23-P connector for the door multiplex control unit, attach a wire from cavity 2 (Blk) to cavity 3 (where the WHT/GRN wire is), then plug it back in.


If that doesn't work, attach a wire from cavity 1 (Blk) to cavity 3 (Wht/Grn).


Both cavity 1 (Blk) and 2 (Blk) are ground wires.

Kevin1952

According to the diagnostic advice provided by justinsbg (07/30/2011, 5:17) I need a new power window master switch (door multiplex control unit).
However, since the jumper wire used in the diagnostic provides an alternate ground path for the relays for each of the windows that the ground the master switch is supposed to provide when you press the up/down command, why can't one just permanently affix a wire to provide the ground in place of buying a new control unit??