Robert Huey

Hi,

I noticed that my air conditioner only is cool on the passenger side. LX V6 model! I did clean out the cabin filter and have to recharge the conditioner this weekend I think. Could that be the problem or is it something else? I did search the internet and this forum and most say it needs a recharge of freon. I just wanted to ask before I went out to spend money that I didn't need to. I do not have the tools or equipment to check the pressure. Thanks for any suggestions you may have!

tech8

Honda had info. that an indicator of low refrigerant is when the left dashboard vent is warmer than the right one, with the A/C on; which you previously experienced. When that happens, the evaporator core isn't being flooded with enough liquid refrigerant, causing it to fully vaporize halfway through the core. As a result, the side of the core with some refrigerant (the right side) stays cold, while the side that's fully vaporized (the driver's duct) is warmer by about 20 degrees (or more in some cases).

Robert Huey

Okay, thanks and I figured it might have been that! I will fill it up and report back!

smithly

If it still is warm on driver side vs passenger side after you confirm you have enough freon in the system, then it is likely the vent door modulator (under the dash) that is bad. Its a door that direct air flow to one side or other or both. Its controlled by a either vacuum or small motor (modulator). I have had this happen on a GMC Yukon. Replaced Modulator and it works great (after I reset the computer by removing and reconnecting battery). Just something to keep in your back pocket....

75aces

Check the o ring where you fill freon. I had a leaky o ring in my 96 accord. Its possible its evaporating before it enters the system.

smithly

Update....
Well I changed all the O-Rings except the Expansion Valve O-rings (Was trying to avoid that lengthy job!). I decided to change the drier before I vacuum and recharged it, in case it was moisture causing the problems. I had to pull the condenser out from behind the radiator to change the drier (it was attached to the side of the condenser). I knew I would change all the condenser O-rings, so I took the advice to change all the compressor O-rings, since the compressor gets hot enough to deteriorate O-rings over time. There was only one O-ring left after that (coupler connection on the low pressure line), so I just changed it too. So now they are all new except the expansion valve O-rings. I also changed the compressor relief valve O-ring. I also changed both Schrader Valves. I shouldn't have to worry about 10 yr old O-rings for a long time (except the expansion valve).

I oiled all the O-ring with Ether 100 and clean hands.

I also replaced the cabin air filter (it was dirty) and blew out the drain line from under the car.

Drier only holds 1/3 Oz. I let all the Freon out in a sealed clear cup. Not much oil came out in the cup. I put 3/4 Fl Oz of PAG 46 to account for 1/3 Fl Oz for replacing drier and some minimal losses to evacuate in cup although it had no real level in sealed cup after I let the Freon out to replace Drier.

At that time, I still needed to measure the clutch gap to have an idea what that is like. I still have to get a dial indicator.

Pulled a vacuum on it for about an hour and a half now and it held for almost an hour when I cut off the vacuum pump.

I finally figured out that 1 Lb of 134a = 16 Oz of 134a. The label under the hood said 17.6 min to 19.4 max Oz., so that would be 1.1 min to 1.2 max Lbs of 134a. That's what I told them to put. Their machine only took input in Lbs.

After doing all that work and vacuuming and recharging, it is still doing the same thing. The shop said they tapped on the clutch when it wouldn't engage and it kicked in. Looks like I need to purchase a dial indicator and check the gap and reshim while still connected to my AC lines so I don't have to recharge. I found the clutch gap check procedure in the Accord Service Manual.

Do I have to purchase a special tool to hold the pulley (or clutch?) while I unbolt the center bolt???? And then where is a good place to buy shims? Are those shims common to any auto parts store like NAPA or is that unique to an AC shop or only online? Thanks for all the help!!

I sure am learning a lot quickly!! Thanks for all the help!!

smithly

Figured I would post this to help others. This from my Honda Accord Service Manual....
Measure the clearance between the pulley (A) and the pressure plate (B) with a
dial indicator. Zero out the indicator, then apply battery voltage to the A/C
compressor clutch. Measure the movement of the pressure plate when the
voltage is applied. If the clearance is not within the specified limits, the
pressure plate must be reshimmed (see A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH
OVERHAUL ).
Clearance: 0.35-0.6 mm (0.014-0.024 in.)
Fig. 117: Measuring Clearance Between Pulley And Pressure Plate With
NOTE: The shims are available in three thicknesses: 0.1 mm,
0.3 mm and 0.5 mm.
Remove the pressure plate (A) and shim(s) (B), taking care not to lose the shim
(s). If the clutch needs adjustment, increase or decrease the number and
thickness of shims as necessary, then reinstall the pressure plate, and recheck
2007 Honda Accord
2003-07 HVAC Heating/Air Conditioning - Accord
its clearance (see A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH CHECK ).
Check resistance of the field coil. If resistance is not within specifications,
replace the field coil (see A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH OVERHAUL ).
Field Coil Resistance: 3.9-4.3 ohms at 68°F (20°C)
If you are replacing the field coil, remove the snap ring (A) with snap ring
pliers, then remove the pulley (B). Be careful not to damage the pulley or the
A/C compressor.
Remove the screw, the wire harness clip (A), and the holder (B). Remove the
snap ring (C) with snap ring pliers, then remove the field coil (D). Be careful
not to damage the field coil or the A/C compressor.
Reassemble the clutch in the reverse order of disassembly, and note these
items:
Install the field coil with the wire side facing down, and align the boss on
the field coil with the hole in the A/C compressor.
Clean the pulley and A/C compressor sliding surfaces with contact cleaner
or other non-petroleum solvent.
Install new snap rings, note the installation direction, and make sure they
are fully seated in the groove.
Make sure that the pulley turns smoothly after it's reassembled.
Route and clamp the wires properly or they can be damaged by the pulley.

ponceprgti03

I have the same problem....good thing you made this thread!

smithly

For those that don't have a dial indicator w/ magnetic base or don't have room to fit a dial indicator while the compressor is still on the car, you can either bend a feeler Guage or use something that is flexible and about the same size like a folded business card and do your best to measure the gap between the clutch plate and pulley plate. Not the most accurate way, but you have to deal with what you have. A good dial indicator is not cheap and is bulky if still on car