wire tuck
#5
Honda-Tech Member
Re: wire tuck (95AccordSC)
I wouldent recommend it unless you are very good at making proper solder connections. Some sensors are very sensitive to resistance, and even using a butt connector can put too much resistance to a sensor and give false readings. Also, keep in mind that you need to tear the dash and engine compartment apart to get to all the wires and make room to hide them in a way that is servicable in the future.
#7
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Re: wire tuck (95AccordSC)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95AccordSC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so maybe just leave it to a pro?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yup.... if you ain' a pro... or at least.... doesn't know someone that does it like a pro.... might want to leave that on the side....
yup.... if you ain' a pro... or at least.... doesn't know someone that does it like a pro.... might want to leave that on the side....
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#9
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Re: wire tuck (95AccordSC)
rhdune16 has done it on his 5th gen Accord. Got to see it the other day. He said he didn't cut or solder any wires when he did his.
Here is a picture from another thread of his Accord.
Try contacting him for advice.
Here is a picture from another thread of his Accord.
Try contacting him for advice.
#11
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the way I did it. I took out the AC lines first and then relocated the battery. Then for the fuse box you have to disconnect all the wires and pull it out through the hole. The wires from the engine bay, push them through the hole for the AC lines, and connect all them back. Then the fuse box you can put under the glove box... I can take pics if this sounds confusing.. cause it was confusing for me to write
#13
Honda-Tech Member
Wire Tuck Fuse Box relocation!!!
for images
I'm tearing my motor out in a two weeks and if this is something I can tackle at the same time it would be nice to kill two birds with one stone.
I'm tearing my motor out in a two weeks and if this is something I can tackle at the same time it would be nice to kill two birds with one stone.
#14
Junior Member
Re: (rhdune16)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rhdune16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the way I did it. I took out the AC lines first and then relocated the battery. Then for the fuse box you have to disconnect all the wires and pull it out through the hole. The wires from the engine bay, push them through the hole for the AC lines, and connect all them back. Then the fuse box you can put under the glove box... I can take pics if this sounds confusing.. cause it was confusing for me to write </TD></TR></TABLE>
yep thats pretty much the same thing I did too except I'm still running AC and power steering. I bent my A/C lines so they run parallel with each other and polished them w/ some mothers mag wheel polish, I also took the foam **** off of them.
The only wire I had to extend was the main power and the power that runs to the starter and that little tiny wire that plugs into the fuse box on top. I'm gonna redo it here pretty soon w/ some different power wire. I also cleaned up a lot of the vacum lines. I ran the one for my BOV underneath the IC pipe it attaches behind the IM, I took out my EVAP stuff and put a catch can where the EVAP can was down towards the bottom of the firewall. I flipped the vacum line for the brake booster upside down so the Now its shaped like a U so you can't see it. I relocated my alarm siren underneath the wiper Cowl, I still need to relocate the wiring for my Resistor box.
yep thats pretty much the same thing I did too except I'm still running AC and power steering. I bent my A/C lines so they run parallel with each other and polished them w/ some mothers mag wheel polish, I also took the foam **** off of them.
The only wire I had to extend was the main power and the power that runs to the starter and that little tiny wire that plugs into the fuse box on top. I'm gonna redo it here pretty soon w/ some different power wire. I also cleaned up a lot of the vacum lines. I ran the one for my BOV underneath the IC pipe it attaches behind the IM, I took out my EVAP stuff and put a catch can where the EVAP can was down towards the bottom of the firewall. I flipped the vacum line for the brake booster upside down so the Now its shaped like a U so you can't see it. I relocated my alarm siren underneath the wiper Cowl, I still need to relocate the wiring for my Resistor box.
#15
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i did basically the same as brads, cept my engine bay is a 92. really the same thing.
i didnt cut and solder any wires either, with some creative routing, you can just run the wires thru new holes and such.
i didnt cut and solder any wires either, with some creative routing, you can just run the wires thru new holes and such.
#20
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Re: (cpmike)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cpmike »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i did basically the same as brads, cept my engine bay is a 92. really the same thing.
i didnt cut and solder any wires either, with some creative routing, you can just run the wires thru new holes and such.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, I read in Honda Tuning that most guys just drill holes into the fender and zip tie all the wiring so it's nice and stable...and it's covered by the fenderliner. They made the holes big enough to push the connectors through without cutting them off..but you have to feed the connectors one by one to make them all through.
i didnt cut and solder any wires either, with some creative routing, you can just run the wires thru new holes and such.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, I read in Honda Tuning that most guys just drill holes into the fender and zip tie all the wiring so it's nice and stable...and it's covered by the fenderliner. They made the holes big enough to push the connectors through without cutting them off..but you have to feed the connectors one by one to make them all through.
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