Tonyneedshelp

Hi all,



I need to put another Engine in my mothers 92 Accord Ex which has a F22A6 engine in it.



According to the F22A Wiki the engines are all basically the same w/some subtle differences I listed the wiki in a quote below taken from this link and hilighted the F22A6 differences in red text.



I'm not sure if this has been covered in the past. My thread searches are not to good for finding this info.



Now w/all the info in red above I'd assume the following.



I should be able to use any F22A1 & F22A4 Engine in my mom's accord to replace her dead F22A6 as long as I use the following parts from her old dead engine. Intake manifold, Cam and Rockers, Valve Springs, Distributor, Exhaust Manifold & Oil Pan



Please let me know if this is correct or is there more to it than just the add on parts i.e. berrings in the rods/Crank and Piston Rings etc etc.



Thank you,



Tony

PT-Tuner.com

Yes you could use another a1 or a4 block. Just transfer over the following from your old a6 motor:
Camshaft
Intake Manifold (good time to consider a re-usable heat shielding intake gasket from bisimoto)
Oil pickup
Windage tray
Header/downpipe

While you have the Intake manifold off the car, it would be a good time clean the EGR passages. Replace all seals on the donor motor, timingbelt/waterpump, might as well do the rear main as well. Oh and before you get a motor, make sure to do a leakdown test, and possibly a compression test first. Compression readings should be at least 175 on each cylinder, with no more then a 10 psi difference between cylinders.

Tonyneedshelp

Thank you for the great info PT Tuner. Now I'm one step closer to making mom happy again.

Nonio

I can understand that easilly, I also own a F22A6, had the same doubt last month due to a cracked block.

A6 is different than the previous, however like PT-Tuner wrote above you can use any of the other blocks on it.

Here's all you need to know if you're still curious on the matter ;

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_F_engine

MACH 7

that sounds like it wll be fun.take your time. be neat be organized and you can do it. good luck

Tonyneedshelp

Thank you Nonio

Is this what you did? I mean did you use an earlier F22A1 or F22A4 in place of a F22A6 Engine or were you lucky enough to find a good F22A6?

This is exactly what I am doing. I failed once already and wasted my money on a Head Gasket kit for a block that is no good. Paid to have the head pressure tested and surfaced and put alot of my personal time into putting all new Valve stem seals on the machined head. thus why I am taking my time this time around.

I was fortunate enough to find a good USA made Engine Hoist for $75.00. All I had to do was add about 8oz of hydrolic oil to get it to reach max lift Sorry kind of got of topic there but I just had to share that. I actually would have pulled the whole engine and had the block tested along w/the head if I had the engine hoist when I had the head serviced a few months back.

PT-Tuner.com

I originally have an f22a1, and I have converted it to an a6.

I got: Unorthodox Standard Diameter Pulleys, bisimoto heat shielding gasket, p&p a6 runners/gutted iab spacer/working iab spacer/h23 plenum/h23 tb. I am still running the stock airbox (with k&n panel), and stock a1 exhaust. In 100*F my car made 110whp/108wtq with the autotragic, if it was manual I would be right around 130whp/wtq. I have a bisimoto header waiting to go on, but I gotta fix cylinder #4's wristpin knock first

Tonyneedshelp

I don't know what all those things are PT. Never the less I appreciate your effort and sharing all that w/me.

You make me want to question one thing about your build as I think about the road ahead of me.

You say you have a slapping or knocking Wrist Pin @ Cyl #4. Could this mean the A1 berrings are not the same as the A6 berrings as in does the A6 have heavier duty bearings to accommodate the increased horse power the A6 has over the A1 ???

Nonio

Nope. I was lucky enough to have my original A6's crack repaired. It was welded and tested with both pressure and heat, pushed to the limit so the repair can be under warranty. Running better than ever, compression is perfect on all 4 cilinders.

However, before heading that way I did search around and found out there's another CB7 in a junkyard with an A3 engine. Having researched on the matter, inquired and investigated the whole subject I concluded that yes, I could install the A3 block on my car keeping all the rest from the original A6.

These engines aren't easy to find over here ( and all over Europe ) at all. You have to keep in mind that so to have such an engine in your car it has to be an import from the States or Canada. All european Accords from 90/93 have F20A engine and manual transmissions, only the ( more than rare ) Preludes would be found with F22 over here.

Not an easy mission keeping a 20-year old US model in condition but I will continue to try my best to do so.

Best of luck with your project, hope that baby runs good again some time soon.

PT-Tuner.com

I let the oil get too low. Wristpins get their lubrication by the crank spinning in oil, and it flings the oil into the wristpins, if the oil gets too low, lubrication of the wristpins suffers first.

tim73

I know this is an old thread. But I was wondering if the original poster ever completed the a6 to a1 swap? My main concern is the whole modified camshaft thing? It isn't a really big deal to swap camshaft, but it also mentions valve springs. That is a bit more aggravating.

I'm wondering do they truly need the a6 springs? Or would I be ok just swapping the cam,and leaving the a1 springs? Also, while I really don't care one bit about the little but extra HP. Would it be possible to just buy a1 ecu. Leave a1 as is and run it with a1 intake and cam? Ideas?

grumpys93

There are a bunch of people who simply swapped in the cam and did not change the valvetrain. It is not a super aggressive cam, so the valvetrain should hold up. As for the buying an a1 ecu and not swapping over the parts would not be really worth it. If you simply just buy a f22a1 block it would save you money instead of buying a full f22a1 motor, especially since you already own the intake manifold and the cam. As long as the cam was not damaged when the motor ate a valve you should be good.