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So thank god this didn't happen on the freeway as I just got off work but i made a turn right and heard a loud bang. I get out the car to look under the hood and seen nothing. Long story short here's a couple of pics. My wheel on the driver side has been pushed back towards the fender
Front radius rod. By the look of the rust, it was probanly already cracked for a while and finally split in 2.
And to completely take it off I would have to remove those two bolts. It's that the actual name of it because imma look on autozones app right now for the part
Remove those 2 bolts and another bolt in the front.
Autozone website sucks for finding parts. It will be better to call them.
By the look of this write up you will want to get an alignment done after, it uses n adjusting shim. | Repair Guides | Front Suspension | Radius Rod | AutoZone.com
Remove those 2 bolts and another bolt in the front.
Autozone website sucks for finding parts. It will be better to call them.
By the look of this write up you will want to get an alignment done after, it uses n adjusting shim. | Repair Guides | Front Suspension | Radius Rod | AutoZone.com
I appreciate the right up. Thats gonna be a lot of help. Now would it be easier for me if I also take the bolts off right here to the left. Cause the right up is showing a lot of suspension part off already
The write up shows everything disassembled. That doesn't mean you have to disassemble it all. Just remove those two bolts in the lower control arm and the other bolt in the front and slide the rod out.
Also your sway bar end link is also faulty in the pic.
Really! Lol,how could you tell. I wouldn't know what to look for. So a little update...called autozone and they didn't have to part so it looks like imma be going to the junk yard
funny how when I call auto dismantling place or auto parts stores (people that's supposed to know what it is) have no idea what I'm talking about
SMH!!
Sine the "rod" is considered a "crash" part....you might find the bushings for it at a local store but to get the rod....dealer or bone yard.
So I'll be heading to the junk yard today because there web sit says the have about 5-6 99 models and about 4 98 models. I was wondering if there isn't any v6 models can I use a 4 cyl radius/strut rod?
For the rod. I believe 14mm short(regular size) socket to get the 2 bolts off the control arm.
A deep socket 14mm for the other tip of the rod.
Someone confirm that they are a 14mm.
Headlights 10mm socket.
Really not a lot of tools you need to work on one car. A simple tool kit will have more than plenty of the sizes. Might want to invest in a kit.
Harbor freight has some cheap sets if your budget doesn't allow for other brands.
Take a pipe to slide on the end of the ratchet to get some leverage and break the bolts/nut free.
For most Honda work 10, 12, 14, and 17 mm wrenches are all that is used. For smaller mostly interior, 8 and for the largest 19 and 22. Of course there are specialty bolts, but these cover most of what you will need. Unless someone buys a nut or bolt from a parts house, then all bets are off.
For most Honda work 10, 12, 14, and 17 mm wrenches are all that is used. For smaller mostly interior, 8 and for the largest 19 and 22. Of course there are specialty bolts, but these cover most of what you will need. Unless someone buys a nut or bolt from a parts house, then all bets are off.
With the rod snapped off you will need to hold the broken end to remove.
Normally it would be attached to the lower control arm preventing it from rotating when loosening the big nut. Prevent the rod from rotating by using some locking pliers 'vise grips'(easiest) or a pipe/plumbers wrench, to grab and hold it. Nut is not tight but it is a nylock type which will not just spin off.
Don't forget your endlink/droplink still needs replacement as well.
With the rod snapped off you will need to hold the broken end to remove.
Normally it would be attached to the lower control arm preventing it from rotating when loosening the big nut. Prevent the rod from rotating by using some locking pliers 'vise grips'(easiest) or a pipe/plumbers wrench, to grab and hold it. Nut is not tight but it is a nylock type which will not just spin off.
Don't forget your endlink/droplink still needs replacement as well.
Sway bar end link. In your first post, just above and a little to the right of the broken radius rad you see a "white thing" - that is a busted sway bar end link/drop link.
02-09-2016, 05:16 PM
What broke!!?
