tsim

I recently installed new timing belt and water pump on my 2002 Accord ex V6
I had a problem with the Idle Air Control valve, prior to the timing belt change, so I changed it at same time.The old Control Valve was definitely bad, it was open and siezed up.Timing belt was a bit tricky to get right, but I finally succeeded and the water pump was a snap after removing the motor mount and belt.The problem now is, when the engine warms up, it begins to surge, a lot worse than with the old Idle control valve.I have read somewhere that air in the coolant system can cause the idle control valve to be erratic.Where is the air bleeder valve for the vtech V6 engine?Does it have one?If not, how to I purge all air from my block? What else could make it surge after reaching operating temp? I can hear the Idle Control Valve cycling.
Any help is appreciated.
tsim

MrLazie1

have you change your motor oil? maybe try that. also did you install everything right and bolts tighten to the correct torque? and the air in the coolant system should have have an air bleeder valve. well i dont think it does. but to get the air out of the cooling system, make sure that your upper radiator hoses does not have pressure in there. then open your radiator cap and go turn on the car. let it run till you see the coolant coming up and about to pour out. that will let out all the air in the cooling system. then just put your radiator cap back on and you're done with that. also its not recommended to warm up your engine when its cold. you just turn it on let it run for about 10-15sec for everything in the engine to be oiled/lubricated. then dont just go off driving quick. drive like a grandma for about a block or so till it warms up to just a couple of bars and then drive like how you always drive.

hope everything helped you out there.

tsim

New oil, new antifreeze,new water pump,new timing belt, new Iridium spark plugs,new Aux belts,new Idle Air Control Valve.All bolts to spec.torque.
Still surges when warm.1000 to 2000 rpm in neutral,steady in drive, but straining against brake when stopped.Also when decelerating at highway speed, feel a "dip" in engine speed briefly, as if the idle is going to zero for a second.No loss of power otherwise.
Any suggestions on how to determine the cause of this problem?

nus_dogg

Adjust your FITV under the TB. Too much air is going in because the wax ball backed out too far.