netopia

is that the same on the the V-tech motors as well

scoostraw

Just checking back in. I did the valve cover gasket and o-rings the other day and it went very well.

Thanks go to you guys and EricTheCarGuy.

TOM2RN

If it's any help, my son's 95 Accord has had oil leaking into the spark plug well after changing the valve cover gasket several times. I followed all the directions in my Haynes and still leaks into the wells. I did a little research and found the video by ErictheCarGuy. I had assumed the four extra gaskets that go under the cam assembly he shows you were extra for another model since many gasket sets are for multiple models. Explains why my continued leakage baffled me. That's why I like this forum and YouTube. I was going to attempt this my self until I discovered a leaking head gasket. I'm leaving that to a mechanic.

jvr

Sorry to revive an old thread, but I'm in the process of doing this and I'm a little weary. I read the diy in the faq, and it seems easy enough, but a mechanic buddy who stopped by said "no, no, no, you should mess with that, valve adjustments need to be done by a machine shop".

I have feeler gauges and I know the specs... Can I do this myself? I have little experience besides oil changes, replacing spark plugs, starter, pcv valve, etc.

Is the valve adjustment totally necessary, or as long as I make sure the rocker and are in the right position before torquing down the assembly will I be good to go?

scoostraw

You can do it. I did. Just be methodical. Mine went well.

jvr

So you have to do the valve adjustment? I'll need to pick up a torque wrench with low enough range and 1/4 drive then.

To rotate the crank, did you have to get under the car?

scoostraw

I only did it because everything was apart. And I had feeler gauges and a torque wrench. No you don't have to get under the car to turn the engine. You can do everything from above.

jvr

It seems like i would need a 4 foot long ratchet to reach the crank pulley from the top... And it would have to be a suuuper thin ratchet to fit... Unless I'm an idiot and there's an easier way. (probably)

I ended up doing a valve adjustment, but without removing the whole rocker assembly and replacing the lower plug seals. I just didn't want to mess with the assembly and reinstall it wrong and be unable to adjust the valves back to normal... I just rotated the crank from below (that's the only way I could see to do it) til #1 piston was TDC, adjusted valves, etc etc for the other cylinders. Some of the gaps were off even though I didn't touch the rocker assembly so I think I did good. Lol

I swear the engine revs way more smoothly... It felt like it pulled a liiittle harder, but that was probably wishful thinking and an active imagination

I am so f***ing stoked, this was by far the most complex thing I've ever done (wrenching wise) and it's given me the confidence to tackle the lower spark plug seals tomorrow or next week. I love this site.

holmesnmanny

You don't need to adjust the valves when you remove the rocker arm assembly but it would be best to since you're already there. It's actually not hard at all to remove it. The key is just to make sure when you remove it to keep the bolts in place or the thing will fall apart. Aside from that, it's pretty straight forward. You just need to make sure to torque correctly. Using the faq's thread it's pretty straightforward.

If you don't have oil leaking into the spark plug tubes then I wouldn't worry about it, but if you have oil, it's best to do it and it's actually fun too, knowing you did something really worthwhile, not to mention it helps keep the spark plug wires from being oil damaged.