Valve Adjustments
06-04-2003, 09:49 AM
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Re: Valve Adjustments (f22baccord)
Valve adjustment specs are .009"-.011" on the intake and .011"-.013" on the exhaust. The engine has to be below 100 degrees to do this.
You will need a 10mm combination wrench, a medium sized flat screwdriver, a set of feeler gauges, a new valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals.
Put the engine at top dead center ( #1 TDC) after removing the left front tire and inserting a 19mm socket and rather long extension and a reliable ratchet through the hole in the side of the inner fender splash apron. Turn the engine counter clockwise until the lines on the cam sprocket are aligned with the top of the cylinder head. There is also an inspection hole below the upper radiator hose. Check to make sure the 1 mark lines up with pointer. You can also look at the crankshaft pulley mark and timing cover pointer ( if it has one). This is # 1 cyl TDC-you should do this with the valve cover removed and the upper timing belt cover removed so you can see the exhaust valves close as #1 cyl. (closest to the t-belt) comes up to TDC. There is an "up" arrow cast in the cam puller also. That needs to point up also. Insert a .010" feeler gauge beween the top of the intake valve stems and the rocker arm. If there is a slight resistance on the feeler gauge as you pull it through, you have the clearance set right. If you cant feel any resistance or you cant even get the feeler gauge between the valve and the rocker arm, get out your 10mm wrench and break the jam nut loose with the box end only. Insert the screwdriver in to the adjuster and turn it counter clockwise to increase clearance and clockwise to decrease it. Repeat this on the remaing thre valves-use the .012" feeler gauge for the exhaust side. I think the correct torque for the jam nut is 14ft pounds. Make sure they are tight. Recheck the valve to rocker arm clearance. Hold the adjuster screw with a screwdriver as you tighten the jam nut.Now turn the crankshaft 180 degrees. This is #3 TDC. Repeat the same procedure for #1 here. Once again, turn the crankshaft 180 degrees to #4 TDC Repeat the sequence. Turn the crankshaft one last time 180 degrees to #2. Adjust all valves for the last time. You are in the home stretch. Clean the valve cover with an apropriate solvent such as brake cleaner etc. Make sure you install a new valve cover gasket and new spark plug tube seals. Clean up the valve cover gasket contact area on the cylinder head. Dont' wash the dirt into the engine, wipe it out. Clean the RTV from around the camshaft caps and put a dab of fresh RTV there. Reinstall the t-belt cover first and then the valve cover. Torque the nuts to 10ft lbs. (I'm not sure about that spec.) Happy Motoring Dude. You may now hear a light amount of valve train noise now, but in my opinion, that's ok. Just as long as they aren't hammering of course. There is a Technical Service Bulliten from Honda regarding excessive valve train noise on number two cylinder. Check with your local dealer to see if the TSB applies to your car. If you have any questions, please ask. If someone else has any pointers or contradictions to any of the above mentioned procedures, let me know also. I should also say that I'm not responsible if you screw up something. If you aren't sure of what you are doing, buy a service manual from your local parts store. Give an ASE certified repair shop a call for an appointment. Valve adjust shouldn't cost more than 150.00 parts and labor. If your not sure who to call, talk to a counter person at your favorite parts store. They can usually tell you where to go and where not go for repairs. laters-fastman
Modified by jfastman at 6:25 PM 6/6/2003
Modified by jfastman at 6:26 PM 6/6/2003
Modified by jfastman at 7:09 PM 6/6/2003
Modified by jfastman at 8:54 PM 6/6/2003
You will need a 10mm combination wrench, a medium sized flat screwdriver, a set of feeler gauges, a new valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals.
Put the engine at top dead center ( #1 TDC) after removing the left front tire and inserting a 19mm socket and rather long extension and a reliable ratchet through the hole in the side of the inner fender splash apron. Turn the engine counter clockwise until the lines on the cam sprocket are aligned with the top of the cylinder head. There is also an inspection hole below the upper radiator hose. Check to make sure the 1 mark lines up with pointer. You can also look at the crankshaft pulley mark and timing cover pointer ( if it has one). This is # 1 cyl TDC-you should do this with the valve cover removed and the upper timing belt cover removed so you can see the exhaust valves close as #1 cyl. (closest to the t-belt) comes up to TDC. There is an "up" arrow cast in the cam puller also. That needs to point up also. Insert a .010" feeler gauge beween the top of the intake valve stems and the rocker arm. If there is a slight resistance on the feeler gauge as you pull it through, you have the clearance set right. If you cant feel any resistance or you cant even get the feeler gauge between the valve and the rocker arm, get out your 10mm wrench and break the jam nut loose with the box end only. Insert the screwdriver in to the adjuster and turn it counter clockwise to increase clearance and clockwise to decrease it. Repeat this on the remaing thre valves-use the .012" feeler gauge for the exhaust side. I think the correct torque for the jam nut is 14ft pounds. Make sure they are tight. Recheck the valve to rocker arm clearance. Hold the adjuster screw with a screwdriver as you tighten the jam nut.Now turn the crankshaft 180 degrees. This is #3 TDC. Repeat the same procedure for #1 here. Once again, turn the crankshaft 180 degrees to #4 TDC Repeat the sequence. Turn the crankshaft one last time 180 degrees to #2. Adjust all valves for the last time. You are in the home stretch. Clean the valve cover with an apropriate solvent such as brake cleaner etc. Make sure you install a new valve cover gasket and new spark plug tube seals. Clean up the valve cover gasket contact area on the cylinder head. Dont' wash the dirt into the engine, wipe it out. Clean the RTV from around the camshaft caps and put a dab of fresh RTV there. Reinstall the t-belt cover first and then the valve cover. Torque the nuts to 10ft lbs. (I'm not sure about that spec.) Happy Motoring Dude. You may now hear a light amount of valve train noise now, but in my opinion, that's ok. Just as long as they aren't hammering of course. There is a Technical Service Bulliten from Honda regarding excessive valve train noise on number two cylinder. Check with your local dealer to see if the TSB applies to your car. If you have any questions, please ask. If someone else has any pointers or contradictions to any of the above mentioned procedures, let me know also. I should also say that I'm not responsible if you screw up something. If you aren't sure of what you are doing, buy a service manual from your local parts store. Give an ASE certified repair shop a call for an appointment. Valve adjust shouldn't cost more than 150.00 parts and labor. If your not sure who to call, talk to a counter person at your favorite parts store. They can usually tell you where to go and where not go for repairs. laters-fastman
Modified by jfastman at 6:25 PM 6/6/2003
Modified by jfastman at 6:26 PM 6/6/2003
Modified by jfastman at 7:09 PM 6/6/2003
Modified by jfastman at 8:54 PM 6/6/2003
06-04-2003, 08:27 PM
#4
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Re: Valve Adjustments (jfastman)
is there any info about this online? where did you find this out, and is it accord specific? do you know what years?
thanks
sohc
thanks
sohc
06-04-2003, 09:08 PM
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Re: Valve Adjustments (SOHCMAN)
Its Engine Specific. My H22A is: intake:.006-.007, exhaust: .007-.008. Get a helms or just get a haynes from your local autozone. Both these books as well as under your hood will have the adjustments for the specific engine, all are different.
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06-06-2003, 09:42 PM
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Re: Valve Adjustments (jfastman)
nope, (sorry for the confusion) I just wanted to make sure that my valves are where they should be (Im getting a bit of valve noise after I just checked/changed the clearances on my 94...
What was mentioned above made me think that honda might hae just released that the should be a different measurement...
sohc
What was mentioned above made me think that honda might hae just released that the should be a different measurement...
sohc
06-06-2003, 10:28 PM
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thanks man the job is done and it sounds really nice..now i also did the 2 timing belts in my car and i think there very tight..there squeling is that ok...it sounds like a supercharger?
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