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I removed the balance shaft belt and just left them in place because i couldn't afford the elimination kit. Honestly the only difference i noticed w/o the balance shafts was more rapid engine response, better fuel mileage, and not much but more power. The balance shafts are merely to help absorb and counter balance any vibrations in/from the engine. But i have never noticed a difference as far as that goes.
With my 92 Accord I'm having the same experience as mentioned in post #11 here. I have a 6mm rod and I can stick it in four different places as I turn the rear sprocket. I have it marked 74mm from the end but it actually goes in a little further, about 80mm. I could easily put it in in each of the positions beyond the 74mm. They all felt identical, no angles, no forcing. I took note of the marks on the sprocket when I could get it in. They are:
V at 12 o'clock with dot at 5 o'clock
V at 9 o'clock with dot at 2 o'clock
V at 6 o'clock with dot at 11 o'clock
V at 3 o'clock with dot at 8 o'clock
For some reason, my 96 honda accord is set at different position. The round dot is about 2 o'clock, that's where I can insert a small bolt all the way in. Any other position, I can only insert half way.
This is my second time doing it after 120k mile period over since my last timing belt job. I do notice that after my 1st one done, there is a pinging tiny knocking noise like the crankshaft bearing is out slightly. But I have driven that long and my mileage is around 28mpg, I wonder if I should correct it according to the video.
I have just complete the 2nd timing belt change (199K and gong strong!) in a 2002 accord which has the same situation with the balancer shaft discussed in this thread. I talked to a Honda mechanic (at a dealership) and believe that I can straighten out the confusion based on what he said. What people are calling the balancer shaft pulley (gear, etc.) is NOT the end of the balancer shaft; it is actually the oil pump pulley. THERE IS A GEAR BETWEEN THE OIL PUMP SHAFT AND THE BALANCER SHAFT; THEY DON'T TURN AT THE SAME RATE. Therefore, you cannot get the balancer shaft in the right place just by putting the oil pump pulley in a specific place.(It might end up right, but chances are it won't.) If this would work, why would they have you go through all the hassle putting a bolt through a hole, etc.? The mechanic said the specific 74mm length isn't really that precise, but if it doesn't go in at least 74mm, it is not in the right place. I found that the bolt was clearly in the right place and the shaft would not turn. (Well, that is the oil pump pulley, attached to the balancer shaft, would not turn.)I'm using the official shop manual which tells how to do it but doesn't tell why. I'm assuming that the marks people talk about on the oil pump pulley are used in assembling the engine.
if you do not put the pin will that cause any major damage to the motor and can it still be timed. I have a 92 EX that i need to do the timing on and my issue at first was that dang crank bolt (what a pain to get off) now im confused on the whole balance shaft in general. what does it do and again why need the pin?
The rear balance shaft is the only thing that there is that you need to time that doesn't have a perfect mark on it. it has a mark but it's not really perfect. For some stupid reason they decided to make it so that you needed to remove that sealing bolt and stick a special size bolt in to time the rear balance shaft properly.
You just need a set of drill bits because you won't be able to find a bolt of that size at the hardware store. Before removing the belts, remove that maintenance bolt and make a mark 3 inches from the end of the 15/64 bit. Stick that end inside and it should bottom out just before that mark(3 inches).
You can do it after you take the belts off, it's not a big deal. Obviously that pin is just to help time the balance belt. After you do that, remove the bit and put the maintenance bolt back in. It's only purpose is to help time the rear balance shaft and balance belt, that's it.
I have just complete the 2nd timing belt change (199K and gong strong!) in a 2002 accord which has the same situation with the balancer shaft discussed in this thread. I talked to a Honda mechanic (at a dealership) and believe that I can straighten out the confusion based on what he said. What people are calling the balancer shaft pulley (gear, etc.) is NOT the end of the balancer shaft; it is actually the oil pump pulley. THERE IS A GEAR BETWEEN THE OIL PUMP SHAFT AND THE BALANCER SHAFT; THEY DON'T TURN AT THE SAME RATE. Therefore, you cannot get the balancer shaft in the right place just by putting the oil pump pulley in a specific place.(It might end up right, but chances are it won't.) If this would work, why would they have you go through all the hassle putting a bolt through a hole, etc.? The mechanic said the specific 74mm length isn't really that precise, but if it doesn't go in at least 74mm, it is not in the right place. I found that the bolt was clearly in the right place and the shaft would not turn. (Well, that is the oil pump pulley, attached to the balancer shaft, would not turn.)I'm using the official shop manual which tells how to do it but doesn't tell why. I'm assuming that the marks people talk about on the oil pump pulley are used in assembling the engine.
You're kinda confused.
On an sohc car, there is one cam at the top, the front balance gear in the front(left side), crank gear at the bottom, and rear balance shaft gear at the rear(right side), not to mention water pump at top right. The oil pump more or less sits behind the crank timing gear. The oil pump assembly as honda calls it includes both the rear and front balance shaft. It more or less all comes off if you remove the oil pump assembly bolts.
The front balance shaft and rear balance shaft are two separate shafts altogether.
Last edited by holmesnmanny; 11-19-2013 at 12:05 AM.
I know this is a really old thread but since it in in the FAQ I'll add something. There is a special tool that only fits and screws in the correct position for the rear balancer shaft. I have used it with no issues on an f22b1.
It is the same as the OEM Balancer Shaft Lock Pin: 07LAG-PT20100 mention in the Factory Service Manual
You can search for: honda balancer shaft tool 3547
This is an old thread but I'm hoping to get the answer I need. I had to remove the oil pump to replace the o-rings and gaskets as I had a small leak from the balancer gear case (which is what holds the rear balancer gear driven by the gear attached to the balancer shaft). After re-installing the oil pump with proper RTV and o-rings and all, the balancer shaft fits tight into its hole on the oil pump, just like when I first removed it. But now, after it's all installed and I re-bolt the gear, the gear won't spin (the balancer shaft won't spin, and yes, I've removed the screw driver I've used to hold the shaft in place). I've removed the oil pump and re-installed it several times to ensure I'm doing it right, as far as I can see I've followed all the proper procedures but still have the problem. Once all is installed the gear is supposed to spin freely with a bit of 'weighted feel' which is what allows it to stay in balance. Mine of course just doesn't spin. If I remove the pump the shaft is free to move again of course. Only happens when the pump's installed.
Anyone have this problem before and if so, how did you fix it? Maybe I'm missing a step? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Isn't there a washer/spacer that goes between the gear and the shaft?
yes, it's called the thrust washer,. The video below will help, there's a link in the description to the longer version of the shaft and gear installation.
Short version video: https://youtu.be/nbBjXw3rw-c
Hope it helps
04-10-2015, 10:33 AM
