t-rd

I have a 98 Accord V6. I just tried to install my left rear brake pads and almost ended up toasting the new pads and existing brake disk. I put the original pads back in. I have a very strange pad wear pattern where the inside pad is all gone, hitting the brake indicator but the outside still has more than a quarter inch thickness left. What could cause this to happen? There are these two small black boots where the caliper bolts go. I assume these must move in and out freely? Well, the bottom one does not move at all while the top one moves just fine. I'm thinking the top one controls the inside of the caliper to close in while the bottom boot controls the outside caliper to move in. That would explain why my inside pad is all gone! I have no idea how to unseize that bottom boot. Looks like I'm going to the dealer.

ricebike

ah you got that "seized sliding caliper pin" problem!

but why goto a dealer when you can source an aftermarket one?

t-rd

you got it. But i'm only looking to keep my caliper and disk combo stock. Anyone know if there is a way of fixing this or do I need to replace the entire caliper??

YeuEmMaiMai

sand all the crap off of your caliper pins, remove the rubber boots off of the caliper, and replace. lube up your freshly sanded caliper pins with high temp brake grease and reinstall

ricebike

Y,

I think he means how to get that PITA seized caliper pin bolt off! I usually haveta twist n' pull, saying a bunch of expletives while doing that... deadblow hammer? torch?

JimBlake

If it's bad, you can't always sand it clean. When it's that bad, it's probably just as bad inside the hole in the caliper bracket. In that case, you might want to get a new/rebuilt caliper.

bps2799

Autozone reman calipers work just fine, but all you really might need would be a new bracket (unless the heat of a stuck pad toasted the rubber boot on the piston) and slider pin. I have found that a ballpeen and a 6-pt box-end wrench do well at freeing many stuck bolts, penetrating oil optional.