92ehatch

I had this issue when i got the car, where it wouldnt accelerate well at all below 3500 rpms.

I fixed that with a valve adjustment and tune up. Now it has difficult time accelerating when its below 2500 rpms. Its not the "its a honda" slow, more of a "got a problem slow"

it feels like time comes to a stand still.

I been reading up on it and the only thing i can come up with is EGR ports on the IM need cleaning

OR

I have a misfire of some sort.


it does burn some oil as well, mabey i should do a compression test?

93 accord lx
f22a1
intake
fresh tune up
200k miles

YeuEmMaiMai

go for EGR ports as that is a very common problem on these engines.

dirty TPS sensor would do that as well.

NAiL05

When you did your valve job did you put the timing back into spec? And as mentioned clogged EGR ports are common in our year vehicles and isnt that hard to clean out if you got the time.

92ehatch

no i did not put the timing back into spec after i did the valve job, i didnt think you had to set timing after that.

the timing belt didnt move or anything like that, so please explain

CD5 Jeebies!

sounds like a serious timing problem to me........how'd the belt look when you did the valve job??

92ehatch

belt is new < 20k miles on it.

its in excellent condition. However, i dunno who installed it, as the previous owner had it done.

i guess i should get the timing checked, but then would i need to do another valve adjusment if the timing is adjusted?

also, just found out my clutch MC is leaking

CD5 Jeebies!

No you wont have to do another valve adjustment...but check your timing....that sucks you MC is leaking but atleast that is an easy fix...worry about that after you fix this problem

CD5 Jeebies!

The more I think about ti...your motor could be getting tired? 200xxx miles and probably alot of hard ones eh??? drop in a new F22 I find em around my area for 200-500 bucks.......

92ehatch

hehe, this f22 is definately not the best out there.


200k miles, various oil leaks, some fixed, some not

burns a SMALL amount of oil (not bad for 200k)

no loud knocks, pings, or ticks.

tranny isnt so hot.

overall, its a decent motor still. im gonna run it till it wont turn over anymore, then i shall get teh h22

CD5 Jeebies!

NOOOOOOOOOOOOO don't get the H22 better to drop in another F and boost it..............I have had 2 H22 accord...bah I'm not impressed anymore.....and when you take it to the track and run 15s all day long you wont be either..just my 2 cents

The_Todd

First off I would check your timing, if that clears up the issue then fine, if not then I would next move towards egr ports as that is a known problem on the cb's and the cd's.

amckee

Clogged EGR ports will not cause the problem you are describing.

CD5 Jeebies!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by amckee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Clogged EGR ports will not cause the problem you are describing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats exactly what I was thinking..has to be a timing issue?

The_Todd

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by amckee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Clogged EGR ports will not cause the problem you are describing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's actually not true.

http://home.comcast.net/~em-engineering/T2T013.pdf

The problem is more commonly described as hesitation and slow acceleration from idle up to around 2500 rpms more so when the engine is cold. It's an easy DIY and should be done anyways.

Eddiebx

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YeuEmMaiMai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go for EGR ports as that is a very common problem on these engines.

dirty TPS sensor would do that as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

how does a tps sensor get dirty and how do u clean it?

92ehatch

i guess i should mention something else here, thats kinda important.

this only happens when the engine is warm, it never does it when its cold

amckee

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .ken &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That's actually not true.

http://home.comcast.net/~em-engineering/T2T013.pdf

The problem is more commonly described as hesitation and slow acceleration from idle up to around 2500 rpms more so when the engine is cold. It's an easy DIY and should be done anyways.</TD></TR></TABLE>If the ports are clogged, no hesitation will be felt. Ports clogged = no gasses can pass to the intake. Now if his valve was carboned up and not closing all the way and his ports were NOT clogged, then gasses would pass to the intake at low RPM's and the engine would stumble.

q45mm

Question does it bogg a little from idle when going almost full throttle if so.
Just unbolt the dizzy and adjust and see if that helps. I dought the timing is that off if it's moving at higher speeds.

Could be because of the mileage as someone said?

Mine died at 267,xxx good old spanky.

PnX-R

funny.. i came across the same type of problem the other day on a 99 accord. customer stated that the tranny is slipping. stood on the gas pedal and i went no where until the rpm went up to around 2500.

check engine light says p0170, lean fuel mixture. So in other words, not enough fuel. problem was fuel pressure regulator had water in it. had to replace fpr and reroute vacuum hoses and such. got done with that, stood on the gas and did a burn out.

check your fuel pressure.

shadow_ridge

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PnX-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">funny.. i came across the same type of problem the other day on a 99 accord. customer stated that the tranny is slipping. stood on the gas pedal and i went no where until the rpm went up to around 2500.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


humm i thought i was the only one that had that issue. I always did the two touch gas move(ex.. press gas a little then again)

but no CEL?? humm...


98EX

92ehatch

yeah, i have no cel's

and it ONLY does it after the engine has warmed up.

if im still in "fast idle" with the temp gauge on cold, it runs like a charm.

if that was timing then i believe it would do it even when the engine is cold. so it must be something else IMO

also, my alternator is only putting out 4 amps (got it tested) im getting a new one, but is it possible that when the fan kicks on and im trying to accelerate that its just not got enough juice out of the alternator? When my fan kicks on at idle then the car idles really really rough

another bit of info, i have the advance cheapo dizzy cap, rotor and spark plug wires if you think that could be the culprit

CD5 Jeebies!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93cb7sedan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
another bit of info, i have the advance cheapo dizzy cap, rotor and spark plug wires if you think that could be the culprit</TD></TR></TABLE>

try replacing them wih OEM parts.....

YeuEmMaiMai

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by amckee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Clogged EGR ports will not cause the problem you are describing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh yes it will, lag on accelleration below 2500 rpms can be caused by that. Don't be so quick to rule it out. Car may not throw EGR code until the problem gets really bad.

amckee

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YeuEmMaiMai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh yes it will, lag on accelleration below 2500 rpms can be caused by that. Don't be so quick to rule it out. Car may not throw EGR code until the problem gets really bad.</TD></TR></TABLE>The test for clogged ports is to apply a vacuum to the EGR valve. If the engine stumbles, the ports are open and the valve good. If the engine is not affected, the ports and/or the valve is clogged. Please explain to me how a CLOGGED port can allow exhaust gasses to the intake. That's what that stumbling is, you know. EGR systems cause stumbling problems when the valve itself leaks or is not able to close properly and the ports are OPEN. This allows the exhaust to flow into the intake at low RPM while the engine can't handle the oxygen depleted air and you get a severe power drop. If the ports were clogged, you could remove the valve and it would be no different than covering it with a plate because the ports are CLOGGED. Please tell me how air moves through these CLOGGED ports and into the intake.

92ehatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by amckee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The test for clogged ports is to apply a vacuum to the EGR valve. If the engine stumbles, the ports are open and the valve good. If the engine is not affected, the ports and/or the valve is clogged. Please explain to me how a CLOGGED port can allow exhaust gasses to the intake. That's what that stumbling is, you know. EGR systems cause stumbling problems when the valve itself leaks or is not able to close properly and the ports are OPEN. This allows the exhaust to flow into the intake at low RPM while the engine can't handle the oxygen depleted air and you get a severe power drop. If the ports were clogged, you could remove the valve and it would be no different than covering it with a plate because the ports are CLOGGED. Please tell me how air moves through these CLOGGED ports and into the intake. </TD></TR></TABLE>

im not sure how that works, however there are a number of search results that came up on various sites, even a writeup that shows how to clean them and describes the symptoms as "stumbling below 2k rpms, slow acceleration, when engine is warm"