AZ_Jim

I've got a 2000 Accord with about 70k on it. The car sees mostly highway miles. I've checked the front brake pads several times, and they still have some life left on them. Recently, I heard a sound from the driver side rear brake. I pulled the pads out and found that the change indicator thing on the inside pad was rubbing on the rotor. The outside pad had a little more life left. Also, the worn inside pad is worn at a slight angle.

I thought that maybe I had a bad caliper on that corner and that's why the pad was worn out more quickly than any of the rest, and at the angle on the inside. However, I pulled the pads out of the rear passenger side and found that it is pretty close to needing replacement and has the same characteristics of being more worn on the inside and at an angle.

Two things that came to mind were possible problems with the parking brake or the brake porportioning valve, since both rear calipers seem to be affected. It never seemed like the brake was making any noise before it hit that indicator. I don't think that it's dragging. Any ideas? How can I check these items?

Is this even a big problem? I did get 70k out of the pads. It seems really odd though that the rears wore out before the fronts. I've never had a car act like that.

hondadude

Everything sounds normal....the pad will wear a little bit uneven...thats why the squealer tab is on the leading edge. The inner pad should wear a little more than the outer pad....the inner pad has the squealer tab. Never fails to amaze me that people will change brake pads and then put the squealer tab on to the trailing edge; why would a person want the steel pad backing to hit the rotor before the squealer tab makes noise? Go figure.
When you change the rear pads be sure to use a little high temp grease on the slider pins.

P_Adams

I think your problem is more related to the ebrake function rather than a proportioning valve. Reason?
If it was excessive pressure to the rear, the rear brakes would lock-up b4 the fronts during application. And it wouldn't take much, considering the rears only contribute 10 - 15% to the total stopping effort.
I have to agree that you've got something going on there, I've 4 Accords in the driveway with over 760,000 miles between them; and the rear brakes have NEVER been done on any of them.

P

iam7head

adam pretty much nail it down.

make sure your parking cable is not tighten to a point that it's draggin you down, is there a cel code?

AZ_Jim

There is no CEL. If the parking brake is dragging, should the parking brake light be on, or not necessarily?

Also, the calipers on this car are not like ones I've seen before. The 2 bolts that hold them on are not slider pins. They are short and are threaded the entire length. The thing they thread into is surrounded by a boot. It doesn't look like there is any place to grease them. Anyone know anything about these types of calipers?

JimBlake

The handbrake warning light has a switch at the handbrake lever. If the cable is adjusted too tight, or the cable is rusty & sticking, it won't trigger the warning light.

After you remove those 2 bolts, slide the caliper away. (Tie it up, don't let it hang by it's own hose!) Your slide pins are under those rubber boots. Unhook the boot & pull out the slider pins. They might be different from one another, so don't scramble them. Clean & grease them so they slide nicely.

Check that the brake pads aren't wedged tightly in the caliper bracket. Sometimes I've had to file off the paint before they fit properly.