Radiator Flush & fill - "Power Flush" for $75 or normal drain & fill?
11-13-2006, 07:22 PM
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Radiator Flush & fill - "Power Flush" for $75 or normal drain & fill?
'99 LX I4, 82,000 miles.
It's due for a radiator flush and fill (was supposed to have been done at 75,000 miles as part of routine maintenance). The shop wanted to do a power flush & fill for $75 as opposed to just draining the radiator and filling it back up.
What do you think? Is the power flush worth it? The last time I had a regular flush & fill at a different shop, the price was $45 or $50.
It's due for a radiator flush and fill (was supposed to have been done at 75,000 miles as part of routine maintenance). The shop wanted to do a power flush & fill for $75 as opposed to just draining the radiator and filling it back up.
What do you think? Is the power flush worth it? The last time I had a regular flush & fill at a different shop, the price was $45 or $50.
11-13-2006, 07:27 PM
#2
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Radiator Flush & fill - "Power Flush" for $75 or normal drain & fill? (Heat)
there's no such thing.
the shop called it power flush because they use a machine to suck out and pump in the antifreeze, i used it before and it just like a drain and fill. no, they dont blast 5 million psi into your system and clean everything.
you are not suppose to use anything to flush it anyway, if you been keeping up the juice change, some people use a garden hose to do a flush but any tap water in the system will decrease antifreeze life.(3 years instead of 2)
the shop called it power flush because they use a machine to suck out and pump in the antifreeze, i used it before and it just like a drain and fill. no, they dont blast 5 million psi into your system and clean everything.
you are not suppose to use anything to flush it anyway, if you been keeping up the juice change, some people use a garden hose to do a flush but any tap water in the system will decrease antifreeze life.(3 years instead of 2)
11-13-2006, 08:19 PM
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Radiator Flush & fill - "Power Flush" for $75 or normal drain & fill? (iam7head)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iam7head »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...if you been keeping up the juice change, some people use a garden hose to do a flush but any tap water in the system will decrease antifreeze life.(3 years instead of 2)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The lifespan is three years? Uh-oh...
I did change it once, at 45,000 miles, when it was first supposed to be changed per the maintenance schedule. I guess I really need to start paying attention to the number of months besides the number of miles. I bought this car in Oct. '98 so I've had it just over 8 years now (and 82,000 miles).
By the way, the mechanic I went to the first time didn't actually replace the fluid, he "recharged" it if I remember right.
OK, I'll cut to the chase here - where should I take it and how much should it cost?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The lifespan is three years? Uh-oh...
I did change it once, at 45,000 miles, when it was first supposed to be changed per the maintenance schedule. I guess I really need to start paying attention to the number of months besides the number of miles. I bought this car in Oct. '98 so I've had it just over 8 years now (and 82,000 miles).
By the way, the mechanic I went to the first time didn't actually replace the fluid, he "recharged" it if I remember right.
OK, I'll cut to the chase here - where should I take it and how much should it cost?
11-13-2006, 11:57 PM
#5
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (ATEJ8FTW)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ATEJ8FTW »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that price seems fair for any shop. but if you were to do it yourself, it would cost around $10 at most with the cost of coolant. </TD></TR></TABLE>
finally someone on ht accepted the overhead/cost to run a store
not sure what do you(op) means by recharging it, there's nothing serviceable with used coolant
if you are doing a complete drain and fill, you'll need around two jugs of antifreeze, they runs about 8 dollar each so less than 20 dollar if you pick up the rad. drain plug gasket.
the thing about coolant is that it's so easy just to drain the radiator and charge you the full amount while leaving the coolant in the engine block intact. there's little tract and i am sure somewhere someone is ripping someone off right now.
think about this, you can save a jug of antifreeze, less work(skip the bleed and drain for the block), and still could charge you the full amount.
if you have an hour of your time and you have some basic tools, anyone can do it.
finally someone on ht accepted the overhead/cost to run a store
not sure what do you(op) means by recharging it, there's nothing serviceable with used coolant
if you are doing a complete drain and fill, you'll need around two jugs of antifreeze, they runs about 8 dollar each so less than 20 dollar if you pick up the rad. drain plug gasket.
the thing about coolant is that it's so easy just to drain the radiator and charge you the full amount while leaving the coolant in the engine block intact. there's little tract and i am sure somewhere someone is ripping someone off right now.
think about this, you can save a jug of antifreeze, less work(skip the bleed and drain for the block), and still could charge you the full amount.
if you have an hour of your time and you have some basic tools, anyone can do it.
11-14-2006, 09:42 AM
#6
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Radiator Flush & fill - "Power Flush" for $75 or normal drain & fill? (iam7head)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iam7head »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> ...
you are not suppose to use anything to flush it anyway, if you been keeping up the juice change, some people use a garden hose to do a flush but any tap water in the system will decrease antifreeze life.(3 years instead of 2)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Coolant instructions are to dilute with WATER, to about 50-50, following a chart on the outside of the coolant container. Coolant is not to be used UNdiluted. WATER is the recommended diluting agent. It's cheap and it's good. Just don't use bad well water, full of cyanide, calcium, or other tasty pollutants.
you are not suppose to use anything to flush it anyway, if you been keeping up the juice change, some people use a garden hose to do a flush but any tap water in the system will decrease antifreeze life.(3 years instead of 2)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Coolant instructions are to dilute with WATER, to about 50-50, following a chart on the outside of the coolant container. Coolant is not to be used UNdiluted. WATER is the recommended diluting agent. It's cheap and it's good. Just don't use bad well water, full of cyanide, calcium, or other tasty pollutants.
11-14-2006, 10:19 AM
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: (iam7head)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iam7head[/quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">…not sure what do you(op) means by recharging it, there's nothing serviceable with used coolant …</TD></TR></TABLE>
The mechanic who did the first coolant flush / fill told me that he drained all the coolant and “recharged” it. I didn’t quite understand what he meant but took his word that he knew what he was doing (cost was ~ $45).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iam7head[/quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">…if you have an hour of your time and you have some basic tools, anyone can do it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I think I’ll do it myself this time. Please walk me through the steps.
If I had to guess…
a. Open the plug on the bottom of the radiator with a catch basin underneath, then open the top of the radiator.
b. Once it’s drained, run the engine for five seconds or so to get the fluid out of the block.
c. Put the plug back in, add a 50/50 mix of new antifreeze / deionized water (but not tap water?) to the top of the radiator. Also fill the overflow reservoir(?)
How many gallons of antifreeze would I need and would a name-brand from Autozone work well enough?
The mechanic who did the first coolant flush / fill told me that he drained all the coolant and “recharged” it. I didn’t quite understand what he meant but took his word that he knew what he was doing (cost was ~ $45).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iam7head[/quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">…if you have an hour of your time and you have some basic tools, anyone can do it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I think I’ll do it myself this time. Please walk me through the steps.
If I had to guess…
a. Open the plug on the bottom of the radiator with a catch basin underneath, then open the top of the radiator.
b. Once it’s drained, run the engine for five seconds or so to get the fluid out of the block.
c. Put the plug back in, add a 50/50 mix of new antifreeze / deionized water (but not tap water?) to the top of the radiator. Also fill the overflow reservoir(?)
How many gallons of antifreeze would I need and would a name-brand from Autozone work well enough?
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11-14-2006, 06:32 PM
#8
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Re: (Heat)
There's a plug in the engine block, you take it out to drain the coolant from the block. Drain the radiator first.
I used to use distilled water, now I use the stuff that's already diluted. Be sure to match the type of the coolant, your owners manual will list the type you need..
I used to use distilled water, now I use the stuff that's already diluted. Be sure to match the type of the coolant, your owners manual will list the type you need..
11-14-2006, 10:06 PM
#9
Re: (Heat)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Heat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The mechanic who did the first coolant flush / fill told me that he drained all the coolant and “recharged” it. I didn’t quite understand what he meant but took his word that he knew what he was doing (cost was ~ $45).
</TD></TR></TABLE>Maybe his slang for replacing it? Do you trust that he put new in?
Or... At one time you could buy the anti-corrosion chemicals to add into your antifreeze. The ethene glycol doesn't wear out, what happens is that the anti-corrosion package gets 'used up'.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Heat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b. Once it’s drained, run the engine for five seconds or so to get the fluid out of the block.</TD></TR></TABLE>I wouldn't do that. I drain from the block drain & remove the thermostat. Fill with clear water THEN run for 1/2 minute or so. Drain. Repeat until it drains out clear, that's maybe 4 or 5 times.
Then put T-stat back in, fill with proper-mixed antifreeze.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Maybe his slang for replacing it? Do you trust that he put new in?
Or... At one time you could buy the anti-corrosion chemicals to add into your antifreeze. The ethene glycol doesn't wear out, what happens is that the anti-corrosion package gets 'used up'.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Heat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b. Once it’s drained, run the engine for five seconds or so to get the fluid out of the block.</TD></TR></TABLE>I wouldn't do that. I drain from the block drain & remove the thermostat. Fill with clear water THEN run for 1/2 minute or so. Drain. Repeat until it drains out clear, that's maybe 4 or 5 times.
Then put T-stat back in, fill with proper-mixed antifreeze.
11-14-2006, 11:50 PM
#10
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (JimBlake)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maybe his slang for replacing it? Do you trust that he put new in?
Or... At one time you could buy the anti-corrosion chemicals to add into your antifreeze. The ethene glycol doesn't wear out, what happens is that the anti-corrosion package gets 'used up'.
I wouldn't do that. I drain from the block drain & remove the thermostat. Fill with clear water THEN run for 1/2 minute or so. Drain. Repeat until it drains out clear, that's maybe 4 or 5 times.
Then put T-stat back in, fill with proper-mixed antifreeze.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Jim's in for the kill
theres detail picture on location of plugs, bleed valve, if you are still confuse, post back and see i could clear it up for you.
always use distilled water with coolant, all the minerial in tap water is no good for the block
it's something like this..
1)run the car with the heat on max, switch on regular air
2)remove the plug off the radiator(and cap as well)*watch out for hot juice, and catch the dirty juice
3)remove the block's plug to drain the rest of the juice
*you could flush it now with jim's method if you suspect the cooling system's dirty.
4)put all the plugs back
5)fill up with new coolant and put the cap on
6)let the car run, loose the bleed valve.
7)you'll see the bleed valve hiccupping itself and then it will have a consistent flow of fresh juice, make sure there's no air bubble left
8)tight the valve, make sure you don't strippe the thread.
9)fill the aux. tank to max
MAKE DOUBLE SURE you, your kids, your pet doesn't sip the cool looking lime coloured liquid, those thing causes brain damage if you drink enough
Or... At one time you could buy the anti-corrosion chemicals to add into your antifreeze. The ethene glycol doesn't wear out, what happens is that the anti-corrosion package gets 'used up'.
I wouldn't do that. I drain from the block drain & remove the thermostat. Fill with clear water THEN run for 1/2 minute or so. Drain. Repeat until it drains out clear, that's maybe 4 or 5 times.
Then put T-stat back in, fill with proper-mixed antifreeze.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Jim's in for the kill
theres detail picture on location of plugs, bleed valve, if you are still confuse, post back and see i could clear it up for you.
always use distilled water with coolant, all the minerial in tap water is no good for the block
it's something like this..
1)run the car with the heat on max, switch on regular air
2)remove the plug off the radiator(and cap as well)*watch out for hot juice, and catch the dirty juice
3)remove the block's plug to drain the rest of the juice
*you could flush it now with jim's method if you suspect the cooling system's dirty.
4)put all the plugs back
5)fill up with new coolant and put the cap on
6)let the car run, loose the bleed valve.
7)you'll see the bleed valve hiccupping itself and then it will have a consistent flow of fresh juice, make sure there's no air bubble left
8)tight the valve, make sure you don't strippe the thread.
9)fill the aux. tank to max
MAKE DOUBLE SURE you, your kids, your pet doesn't sip the cool looking lime coloured liquid, those thing causes brain damage if you drink enough
11-15-2006, 04:17 AM
#11
Re: (iam7head)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iam7head »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Jim's in for the kill </TD></TR></TABLE>just lucky...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iam7head »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">*you could flush it now with jim's method if you suspect the cooling system's dirty.</TD></TR></TABLE>Also, certain combinations of anti-freeze types don't play well together. The anti-corrosion packages fight against each other & that's bad news for the block. Especially if the old stuff is Dex-Cool. If you don't know what's in there now, it's not a bad idea to get it all out.
</TD></TR></TABLE>just lucky...<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iam7head »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">*you could flush it now with jim's method if you suspect the cooling system's dirty.</TD></TR></TABLE>Also, certain combinations of anti-freeze types don't play well together. The anti-corrosion packages fight against each other & that's bad news for the block. Especially if the old stuff is Dex-Cool. If you don't know what's in there now, it's not a bad idea to get it all out.
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