boxerdogguy

Just a bought a 93 Accord 4 door 2.2 not sure if vtec, automatic 211k.

CAR WILL NOT REV OVER 2000 RPMS

The guy I bought it off of put a new Ignition Control Module and thinks he didn't get it back in time when put he it back together, NEW ROTOR, NEW DISTRIBUTOR CAP, NEW SPARK PLUGS and NEW SPARK PLUG WIRES. Before he put the NEW PARTS on he said it would cut out around 55-60mph.

CEL was on then and is on now and wont rev passed 2k rpm in neutral or driving it, I done the obd1 CEL test and this is what I came up with.

First, 7 short flashes, pause, then 1 long flash followed by 4 short flashes, pause, then 2 long flashes then starts over.

Can someone help me out with this, Am I reading these codes right? Thanks

GhostAccord

Have you tried to fix the code issues?

7 = Throttle position sensor
14 = Intake air control valve (IACV)
20 = Electric load detector

Check the connectors on the TPS and IACV, make sure they are clean and tight. To do any further trouble shooting you will require a shop manual and a multimeter. The Haynes and Helms shop manuals both have step by step trouble shooting procedures for these codes.

boxerdogguy

@GhostAccord I have not tried to fix the code issues, I just bought the car yesterday 2/18/2013. Trailered it home and I am now just trying to diagnose the problems.

tdohcaccord

tps will make the car run like crap..same with the map plug..

if the tps is bad or broken the ecu will think its always at say 40% throttle.. so at idle it will run rich and like crap.. when you try to drive and actually give it more throttle than the ecu thinks it will lean out and basically hit a wall..

basically your flooring it and letting all the air in but the cars not able to compensate with the throttle position..

pull the plugs, clean them all and unhook the battery.. pump the brakes to ensure the ecu has no power, plug it all back in and hook up hte battery and fire it up.. thats the best way to clear the codes

boxerdogguy

A little update, I checked the TPS It is hooked up, and no loose wires. Another thing I noticed is there is a ground strap (big copper wire uninsulated) that is under the distributor it is bolted to the block but the other end is not attached to anything does anyone know where the other end attaches to?

gqstatus05

If it's a ground wire then it should be hooked to the frame of the car or firewall. Correct?

That's how grounds usually work.

N02

I have a 92' Accord that was doing the same thing. I gave it a tune-up a few month back, after it started, but it didn't help. So, the other day I was just looking and found a bad plug wire. The spark was coming out of the side of the plug-boot instead of coming out of the bottom....I knew it had to be something simple, because the car started to skip out of the blue!!!! Hope this helps!!!

tdohcaccord

that ground strap is probably not factory.. factory ground wire is on the thermostat housing.. but hook it up as see.

but the tps sensor can be bad and still hooked up.. you can buy one or get some from a salvage yard.

boxerdogguy

I'll post some pictures just to give everyone helping me out a better picture of what I'm dealing with, it's a mess I tell you. Any tips or pointer's on posting pictures to this site?

GhostAccord

You need to use a photo sharing / image hosting web site and use their links in your posts to view them.

Photobucket or flicker are a couple choices for free image hosting sites that you can use.

boxerdogguy

As you can see wire's have been spliced and crimped together for whatever reason, I did take the distributor cap and coolant sensor out for picture reasons. You can see the ground lead come over and bolt to the block and the other end is hanging free, I thought maybe it bolted to the distributor housing, Does anyone know where that other end bolts to?


Another ground that was put in, is this necessary?


Ground #2 that bolts on the the side of the fender!


Someone hardwired one of the cooling fans and ran a wire to the engine bay fuse panel and stuck a wire in a random fuse location, so it runs all the time unless you pull the wire.






This coolant sensor has one of the wires broke off on the sensor itself.

GhostAccord

Wow...that is a wire hack job. Those ground wires are very small gauge and completely useless IMO. That copper braided ground is something that was added. it is not OEM

That 2 wire green connector is very important, that is your engine coolant temperature sensor. That would be a good reason that your engine won't rev over 2k RPM. There could be more than one reason in that tangle of wires as to why your ECU is in limp mode.

I do not envy you and the amount of work that will be required to correct the poor wiring in that bay.

tdohcaccord

oh my.. that is all jacked up..

trace that braided wire andsee where it goes.. it looks like its the main ground wire for the harness.. and it should bolt onto the thermostat housing


the extra ground wires.. well everything helps, especially if you have a powerful stereo system, adding grounds will help eliminate speaker hum or alternator wine.


to be honest.. what i would do is go to a salvage or you pull yard and get a new harness.. swap it over and start from there.. heck even if the new harness is missin a plug or two you can add them back on using your harness as extra parts..
you have no idea what is cut, damaged and its not worth it to pull it off and trace every wire

i know since ive had to do that once and i found almost every dizzy wire cut and spliced 5 times per wire..

new to me harness, plugged it in and never had a issue since

holmesnmanny

Your best bet really is probably going to be to get a new engine harness from a junkyard. They got people that sell em on ebay too if you don't want to have to pull one and just want to install it. Just make sure you get the same trim.

boxerdogguy

I have a junkyard harness, is their a difference in the harness if it's off a standard or a auto?

tdohcaccord

not at all.. my current harness on my f20b is auto.. its what i used to replace my custom hack job harness...

there are at least two plugs that you will not use and will not hurt anything.. i just electrical taped them up when i re taped the harness.

but you can plug it all in.. make sure everything works correctly after driving it a few days and then go and cut off the plugs and tape up each end.

tdohcaccord

to clarify.. the harness does not matter as long as its from the same model.. f22b1/2 if its a ex harness youll have to change things around for the internal to external coil..

but besides that its the same harness

boxerdogguy

(MY CAR'S EXISTING WIRING HARNESS)

I don't have a plug in for the connector on the left. (JUNKYARD HARNESS)



My existing harness doesn't have this plug, anyone know what this plug is for. (JUNKYARD HARNESS)

tdohcaccord

i think thats the plug for the automatic trans cpu.. since obd1 cars have seperate computers for the trans and engine

boxerdogguy

That maroon colored plug is the one I Don't have and I have a automatic, The car I got the harness off of was a standard, That don't make since.

My 93 is the 10th Anniversary Accord, IDK if that makes it special IDK if it's a LX EX not sure.

Someones been through all the wiring there's bolts missing for bolting the harness down, Another thing does these cars have 2 brake reservoirs one on each side of the car because my car has something like that on it?

GhostAccord

That connector looks as though it fits into a ground distribution block or the fuse/relay box. What are the wire colours that are going into it? I can tell you more info if I knew the wire colours.

There is only 1 brake reservoir. Not sure what it is you are looking at but there is an EVAP canister mounted on the passenger side of the firewall. Only other reservoirs there are would be the power steering and clutch.

tdohcaccord

well, im at a loss..

boxerdogguy

UPDATE: I ended up just just fixing the existing harness (since I didn't have all the right connectors), I used parts off the one I got out of the junkyard.

Car started up fine and now it will idle right at 2K and when you go to give it a little throttle it acts like its still hitting the rev limiter.

The codes I have this time are a 7=TPS & 14=IACV.

If you look up through my pictures you can see what I'm talking about the other reservoir on the passenger side right beside the fuse panel, it must be the EVAP Canister.

tdohcaccord & GhostAccord appreciate all the help, What's my next plan of attack?

GhostAccord

Well after looking at your pictures that is a reservoir for brake fluid. Not sure how I missed that, it says right on it to use only DOT3 or DOT4. Must be for the ABS... Never worked on a CB with ABS that is probably why I didn't recognize it.

tdohcaccord

dam, it could be the abs plug..

tps is well tps being bad or out of spec.. unplug the tps and iacv.. turn on the car.. it should idle around 500rpm.. if it still idles high you have a vacuum leak.. also,, unhook the throttle cable from the the TB.. to make sure the cable is not too tight and holdind the throttle open