Gunnar72

I have just replaced the timing belt on a 2001 Accord 4 cylinder and I have the P0335 code coming up. I followed a video on how to Change this out. While researching the code I found the instructions on this forum in much greater detail. I wish I had seen it sooner. I have a few questions and observations.

1. I left the 6mm bolt in that holds tension on the timing belt that needs removing. It was in there from the previous belt change. Do a lot of people do this?

2. The engine started up sluggishly at first. Now it starts right up. I have the P0335 code however. If I'm off a tooth will this happen? I think it's running 8 deg of timing by the computer.

3. I got coolant on the crankshaft sensor while I was changing the water pump. I would like to know how to test this to see if it needs replacing. I unplugged it when I changed it out. I've heard that's a no no.

4 . The spark plug seals on the valve cover gave me a fit when I tried to get them back on. I replaced the original with FelPro and I've heard Honda's are the best.

5. For some reason the alternator belt squeals quite a bit. It stops after a moment. If I tighten it it gets worse. Not a new belt but it looks good.

I'm really interested in how to check the sensor. I've seen a note on how to check it on a Civic but not an Accord. It looks like I'm gonna have to go back in and verify timing, remove the bolt, and check the sensor.

MAD_MIKE

No, that is just to temporarily hold the tension of the balance belt while setting the timing belt tension.
Once both belts are tensioned, tighten the nut and then remove the 6mm bolt. It is usually borrowed from the timing belt covers to set the tension, then removed and reinstalled into the timing belt cover.
P0335 is CKP Sensor Circuit Low Input.
Look for any loose connections in the CKP connector, check the wiring harness.
To unplug the CYP? Never head of that. Just make sure it is properly seated. Clean, no damage to the wiring, battery is fully charged. Low voltage may cause problems with the CYP.
Ideal to use Honda gaskets, but Fel-Pro should work fine as well.
If coolant or oil spilled on the belt it may be slick, if you have WD40 spray it on the belt to clean off any oily residue.
If the alternator belt is slipping, then the voltage may be dropping low enough to cause the CYP code to pop up due to low voltage.
IIRC it will be about 800-1500Ω for the CYP sensor. Any junk or material on the sensor head may impede its signal.

Gunnar72

Ok......bad news. I tore everything down and removed the bolt. The timing was perfect. Before I did that however I changed the alternator belt. No more squeal but still got the same P0335 code. I checked out the sensor and it was a little grimey so I took some electrical cleaner and sprayed it. Put everything back together and now nothing. It won't start. I guess you can't spray them with cleaner. I'm charging the battery now and see if it dries out in the morning otherwise I guess I'll do it all again.

tim73

Hmm, its just a proximity sensor, so i wouldnt think it wouldnt be all that sensative. Doubly make sure the connection wire behind the engine didnt get pinched or cut.

MAD_MIKE

The sensors are just magnetic pickups, wiping them would have been fine. depending on how caustic the cleaner was, you may have damaged the insulation of the wiring. Did you check the resistance of the pickups?
If they are open or have no resistance then the pickup will not send a signal to the PCM to let it know that the engine is rotating/when to fire the plugs.

Gunnar72

I checked the resistance and there is resistance on two of the 4 prongs?

Gunnar72

I bought a new sensor and rechecked the old one. The resistance is identical for both. I guess the timing has to be off?

Lost Again

How much? As I read the spec's for the 6th gen 4 cyl, it should be 1,800 ~ 2,450 on the pins. Now it depends on which two of the four you have that on?

Gunnar72

2245 and 2229 ohms

Gunnar72

I also checked to see if it was grounded. It was not.

MAD_MIKE

Have you inspected the engine wire harness, and the connector, for corrosion, damage or a loose pin?

Gunnar72

Yes. Everything looked good. I ended up replacing the sensor. The original one checked out ok but I read somewhere that they can do that. It started up perfectly with no CEL.

A couple of notes.
When I took off the timing cover the balancer belt was broken. I heard a pop when the crankshaft bolt broke free. I have no idea if or why this happened then.

Also the crankshaft sensor connector to the harness did not click tight. I suspect this May have been the problem. Rather than mess with it, I felt it was best to change it out.

The whole process took hours start to finish but I took it apart 3 times. I think I can do one in a couple of hours now.

Thanks for your replies.