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Prime oil pump

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Old 05-25-2015, 09:23 AM
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Default Prime oil pump

Attempting to prime oil pump for H22b2 engine after rebuild. I have spark plugs out and cylinder head cover off to monitor while cranking.

Would I expect to develop enough pressure during cranking to turn the oil pressure light off?
Would I expect to see oil coming out at top after cranking for a minute?

I did remove the oil filter and confirmed that oil flowed after cranking for 10 seconds. Trying to decide if I need to go back in and check for problems.
Old 05-29-2015, 09:42 AM
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Default Re: Prime oil pump

If you are seeing oil coming out where the filter is then you have pressure. I would test the pressure at the oil sending switch next which should be around 5psi (hot). Make sure to put the oil filter back on. You could also then test the oil pressure at the VTEC switch as oil pressure is needed to engage vtec, but the pressure here may be high, so be careful. And of course with the VC off you will see oil in the head.

It almost sounds like you have a faulty oil pressure switch.
Old 05-29-2015, 11:18 AM
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Default Re: Prime oil pump

I don't like the idea of needing to prime an oil system on an engine that has a crank-concentric pump. oil pressure required to turn the light off may not be reached until the engine is started and idling. the starting speed will supply the oil to all areas of the engine but not necessarily with much pressure.

I like to use a thick assembly lube on main, rod and cam journals that will stay put until the initial supply of oil on the first start up flushes it away. also, the parts of the head that retain oil under the cams should be filled to over-flowing (which will just drain to the pan) prior to start up. I've had good success with this method on several different Honda engines.
Old 06-02-2015, 04:50 AM
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Default Re: Prime oil pump

Thanks for the feedback, What I decided to do, before I received your input, was to move forward with replacing the oil pump with OEM. In the process of taking things back apart I did not see any issues with the pick-up screen, head gasket installation or oil flow orifice (this is a non-Vtec engine, F22B2).

I also had replaced the oil pressure switch. The switch had continuity to ground with the wire removed and I also tested the pressure switch sending wire which had continuity to ground.

So, based on the comments, just cranking the engine with spark plugs removed may not generate enough pressure to send oil all the way to top of the cylinder head.

After the oil pump is installed and before I install the cylinder head, I was thinking of filling the pump discharge via the oil flow orifice hole (before installing the orifice) with oil to help the process and will also fill the cylinder head overflows as suggested.

Since this is a new start-up, what would be the ~amount of time to wait for the oil passages to fill and have the oil pressure satisfied for the oil pressure light to go out before aborting the start-up?
Old 07-06-2015, 11:36 AM
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Default Re: Prime oil pump

Follow up on this issue with the oil pressure light not going out when cranking with out spark plugs installed and fuel pump disconnected after completing rebuild

I ended up doing the following:
1) Replacing the aftermarket oil pump with Honda oil pump
2) Replaced the oil control orifice.
3) Replaced the pick-up tube
4) Before assembling the head and installing oil control orifice I poured oil down through filter to help with filling system with oil.

Result was cranked for 10seconds then oil pressure light flickered. Stopped and then cranked again light went out completely after 3 seconds. Installed spark plugs, connected fuel pump, fired up car and the oil pressure light functioned normally.

So, I suspect that the issue may have been with the aftermarket oil pump but I cannot confirm since I also replaced the pick-up screen, the orifice, and helped the priming effort by pouring oil into the pump discharge. Maybe the first pump may have worked when up to normal engine RPMs, but I didn't want to take the chance if it was not performing at cranking RPMs.

Lesson I learned is with critical parts it's worth spending the a little extra for OEM, would have saved me a lot of time.

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1996 Accord Wagon 2.2L, LX, MT
F22B2 Engine
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