PsXtreme

I know what you're all saying, just look it up online. I have looked for a few months and cannot find this part anywhere, not even ebay. If I knew what these wires were called or had a part number that would make things a whole lot easier, so I took a picture for you guys in the hopes that maybe someone here might be able to give me such infomation. These wires plug into the ignitor and the other end plugs into a harness. I know one goes to the tach, one is a constint hot, and the other I am not sure. I have looked in the junk yard and can only find 4 cylnders which use different wires so thats not an option. I have the v6 model 96 honda accord ex. If anyone can help identify or know where to get these wires please let me know. Thanks in advance!!

GhostAccord

These are not sold as a separate part. They are sold as part of a unit, Distributor Housing 30105-P0G-A02.

Your best bet is to rebuild this part or find a used distributor housing for sale cheap.

PsXtreme

Thats what I was afraid of. I have basically rebuilt the entire distributor, so im not trying to buy a used or new one. Hopefully I will get lucky in a few other junk yards out of town. Thanks for the information, GhostAccord!

scubacamper

Check your PM's - I have an extra one you're welcome to have.

PsXtreme

I dont want to make another thread if I dont have to, but I am beyond frustrated with this car. So whats happening is the tach is dancing around and the car surges after some time down the street. My guess is when the igniter gets to operating temperature. So anyways I researched the problem and can only find that its the igniter going bad. When I opened the distributor I noticed a bit of oil in there and obviously I considered that the cause to the problem. Oil is getting onto the igniter and causing the car to have these issues. So I went through the pain in the butt process of tracking down the shaft seal and o ring and replaced them. Then I changed the cap and rotor button because both were beyond savable. The rotor button was burnt pretty bad and the cap had all this white stuff on the contact points. So I got all that stuff new. I then went and got a few igniters to replace the oil soaked one at the junk yard and put one of the igniters in. The cars I got them from had stickers on them that says the car runs and drives so I know the igniter is a good one. The only thing in the distributor thats original are the wires and the actual metal housing that the igniter screws on to. So that is why now I am looking for the wires, but in thinking about it, could the wires really make the car continue to surge and the tach to jump? I put silicone on the broken parts of the wires to seal it from shorting so what the heck? Any help would be appreciated.

EDIT: Just so anyone willing to help knows, there is no more oil leaking into the distributor and the housing has been fully cleaned with brake clean. The new rotor button now has a big white mark in the center after about 2 months of use and I am told that is normal wear and tare, nothing to worry about, but I feel I would say these few things to give as much info as possible. Oh and while I am at it, when I replaced the cap and rotor button, seals, and whatnot I also replaced the plug wires with autolite wires and I got new plugs which are the autolite iridium plugs which I was told are the best to get unless you have a race car.

scubacamper

I'm thinking you might have a vss issue (vehicle speed sensor).

I went through distributor troubles a while back and everything I read pointed toward using Honda OEM parts for all things ignition related, with the exception of ngk for the plugs and wires (eventually you'll want to get those autolites out of there and put ngk plugs in - see your owners manual or the sticker under the hood for part numbers).

PsXtreme

If your talking about the sensor that has this little pin that spins, I already replaced that. When I first got this car the speedo did not work at all and that was found to be the problem. Once I replaced that sensor, my speedo works and still works. I was thinking last night it might be the coil since I havent messed with that yet, but I remember the other day when I took the distributor off to clean the housing and install the new igniter that the shaft on the end of the distributor had marks on it like it was slipping and it jiggles, so maybe there is too much play there and thats the cause?

scubacamper

From what I understand, the igniter can also give those symptoms, especially after warm-up so it looks like you might be on the right track...

When you said before there were already markings on the rotor button after only 2 months, it makes me wonder if there's an electrical delivery issue (too much current?) - perhaps your igniter is at-fault? Have you tested the igniter?

PsXtreme

From what I have researched, all points to the igniter so 2 months ago when I found oil in the distributor and the igniter oil soaked, I figured that was the cause. So I replaced the shaft seal and 0 ring on the distributor and put a known working igniter in there, but the problem still remains. I didnt have anymore money to put into fixing the issue so I just let it eat up until a few days ago when I decided to take a look and noticed there is no more oil getting in there, but the shaft end of the distributor has marks like that little nub that goes in the engine is slipping and I am not sure how much its suppose to jiggle since I cant find another distributor to compare. I also put another igniter in there a few days ago, I have about 4 of these igniters now. So I am down to, its either those wires which can clearly ark a spark or ground, the coil is going bad, or that shaft thing is slipping.

PsXtreme

That has me consured, because I wouldnt think there should be white around the center of the button so soon nor should there be white stuff on the contact points of the cap. My father told me thats just normal wear and tear, but I am not so sure considering the thing isnt running right.

PsXtreme

I just want to add that now that its cold outside the car seems to have "fixed" itself and runs like a normal car. I know it isnt really fixed, its just masked by the cold. So could that mean thats its the coil? Thats really the only thing that hasnt been changed out besides the wires to the igniter and that shouldnt be affected by the cold.

scubacamper

I wonder if your main relay has bad solder points?

PsXtreme

When I first got the car I had to get it ready for inspection and the dash lights didnt work right. I ended up changing a few fuses and I made sure to check those relays out. If your talking about the 100 amp main relay direct from the battery I can see inside and it looks fine. I haven't noticed anything else in the car go screwy on me, but its worth a try to test it. How would I test this relay tho? I have tomorrow off so I am going to check into that as a possibility. The main reason I am thinking coil now is because the coil cant get hot anymore like it used since its cold outside. Im not even sure its able to get to operating temperature with all the air blowing on it from under the car. That may be why my symptoms have disappeared. I just dont know what I need to buy on tuesday when I get paid and I am no mechanic. I appreciate all your help so far scubacamper!

scubacamper

The main relay I'm referring to is tucked way up under the dash on the driver's side.
They are notorious for causing various issues all due to the solder points separating.
The telltale sign is the car having issues after warm up.
Check this video out for more info on the main relay: http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=viIZ8k60awY
And here's one for no-start Hondas:
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9K78XIhhjAQ

I hope u get this figured out :/

PsXtreme

I will report back what the fix was after this is finally fixed in case someone runs into this same problem. I love eric the car guy, he knows quite a bit about hondas. Thanks again!

scubacamper

Likewise - he's very good at explaining things thoroughly and dispelling misinformation.
Keep us posted - I like reading about the obscure issues and finding out what was the cause.

holmesnmanny

The problem is likely that both the coil and ignitor are bad. You need to get new ones from rockauto. Standard motor's t series work great and are great priced.

PsXtreme

Well since the igniter has been changed I am thinking coil so I am going to buy one on Wednesday from autozone and see if that fixes the problem. Thats how bad I am sick of this problem, cant even wait for shipping. LOL

I still need to get those wires tho, but I have a few junk yards out of town I can try. The real test will be when its warm outside to see if the problem still remains. I dont think the wires are the issue here because hot or cold wires will short and the car is fine now that its cold. So the only thing this could be is coil.

GhostAccord

You could test your coil rather than spending the money to replace it and it turn out not be the issue.

Do you have access to a multimeter or Ohmmeter? The primary and secondary winding in the coil should be within a certain resistance range. If you test them and they are not within the range. You should replace it. if they are within range, time to look somewhere else.

Like maybe the intake air temp sensor or engine coolant temp sensor. Just a suggestion. As it seems your issue is now temperature related.

Do you, or anyone you know, have an OBD scan tool? You can use a scan tool to monitor these sensors and determine if there might be a false reading showing up. The check engine light won't some on unless there is a sensor failure or the readings are completely out of range. That doesn't mean that the sensors are accurate. Could be dirty or corroded leads causing false readings.

PsXtreme

I bought a Coil from Autozone this morning and installed it. I was surprised how easy it was to take apart and install the new one. Only took 15 minutes and then I took it for a good drive up to warsaw, va which is a 2 hour drive. Anyways, the drive up was great and then the ride back was just as good. Problem seems to be resolved. The old coil has a bunch of oil on it from when the seals were broke. I have since put new seals all around. So now on to the next problem, O2 sensors! I have both brand new o2 sensors and my car says the heat thing inside the back o2 sensor is bad. I know its not because its brand new, so wtf?

GhostAccord

What brand O2 did you buy? Bosch have been known to fail right out of the box on our cars. NTK have been the most reliable that I have seen.

Check the wiring and make sure all of the wire pins and connections are secure.

PsXtreme

Thanks, So the duralast ignition coil died after only 3 days running in my car. I was on my way to work and stopped at the gas station and came back out and the car wouldnt start. If I hadnt of had my old coil in the trunk I would have been screwed. Anyways, I noticed the problem of the tach and surging came back, so that 100% confirms its coil. I got another one and got a BWD brand one from pep boys this time. I am installing it in the am and hopefully this one doesnt leave me stranded. Just for my own FYI, is the honda dealership the only place to get honda OEM parts? I have been told the ignition system in my car is very specific as in it only likes honda OEM parts so I may end up having to get a OEM coil after giving this one a chance.