P0401 honda accord.
01-28-2016, 07:47 PM
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P0401 honda accord.
Over this past month i have been having the worst experience with the CEL P0401 code. I Paid a mechanic nearly 900$ to replace the EGR valve and clean out the passage ways. Drove about 60 miles and the code came back on. This time around i purchased the EGR repair kit and paid about 200$ to have it inspected by a "master honda certified mechanic" and to 200$ to have it installed and the EGR valve cleaned once again. Drove about 15 miles and the light came back on. The valve has been changed and the intake manifold has been cleaned spotless and the passage ways are sparkling. I am in desperate need for the answer and need help ASAP. I cannot find anything other then people saying to "D.I.Y EGR passage way cleaning" online and that is of no help to me. If anyone has any other possible leads to what could be the potential problem that would be amazing. I have heard it could be bad wiring? A bad spark plug? Anything other then cleaning the EGR out. I have exhausted most of my budget on trying to get this car to pass smog. I can no longer afford to keep having different mechanics inspect and give diagnostics. Please anyone, help. Thanks in advance.
01-29-2016, 12:06 AM
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Re: P0401 honda accord.
I dug around and saw you had a 2000 accord v6.
It looks like there's a TSB for your prob. Here's a good link:
http://forums.edmunds.com/discussion/2379/honda/x/2000-honda-accord-v6-egr-valve-replaced-2-times
Get a copy of the tsb and have your guy follow it.
As far as the mechanics go: if you paid some guy $900 to fix your car and he didn't fix it, then you need to take it back him and tell him to fix it right. If not, I suppose there's the better business bureau or maybe a state regulatory body.
2. For check engine lights I recommend the dealer, they've seen all of them, the problems are usually all the same, they can pinpoint the prob while someone else will throw a wet blanket at it and replace everything. Plus, you have the ability to speak with the service manager or corporate honda if there's a problem.
If you have a shady ex-con work on your car, he might just tell you "tough ****" in response to your customer service inquiry.
It looks like your egr valve is electrically controlled. So ignore all the vacuum control bs I wrote below.
-----------------
I was a smog tech, but I'm a little rusty.
Find out what controls the egr valve. Is it vacuum or electric or something.
I was a Toyota tech, all of our egrs were vacuum actuated. Thus, a solenoid switch would open allowing manifold vacuum to reach the valve and lift it. Thereby allowing exhaust gas to dilute the air/fuel charge.
In the Toyota world, the vacuum diaphragm would crap out and the valve wouldn't lift.
To diagnose an egr, we'd use a handheld vacuum pump to be sure the valve lifted -the engine would stumble at idle.
Then, we check the supply circuit for vacuum using the vacuum gauge. Steadily Rev the engine and look for the vacuum reading. Look at the vacuum diagram on the sticker of the hood. Follow the vacuum hoses checking for a signal all the way back to the intake manifold.
Try getting a repair manual too. A handheld vacuum pump/gauge maybe could be rented at an auto parts store like advance. Or bought for $30?
What are you driving? Year ,engine?
If this doesn't work, I might be able to get more specific.
Take a good look at the vacuum lines too. Maybe one is torn or loose, plus there may be a vacuum switching valve in the circuit. You could jumper that and see if it is stuck.
It looks like there's a TSB for your prob. Here's a good link:
http://forums.edmunds.com/discussion/2379/honda/x/2000-honda-accord-v6-egr-valve-replaced-2-times
Get a copy of the tsb and have your guy follow it.
As far as the mechanics go: if you paid some guy $900 to fix your car and he didn't fix it, then you need to take it back him and tell him to fix it right. If not, I suppose there's the better business bureau or maybe a state regulatory body.
2. For check engine lights I recommend the dealer, they've seen all of them, the problems are usually all the same, they can pinpoint the prob while someone else will throw a wet blanket at it and replace everything. Plus, you have the ability to speak with the service manager or corporate honda if there's a problem.
If you have a shady ex-con work on your car, he might just tell you "tough ****" in response to your customer service inquiry.
It looks like your egr valve is electrically controlled. So ignore all the vacuum control bs I wrote below.
-----------------
I was a smog tech, but I'm a little rusty.
Find out what controls the egr valve. Is it vacuum or electric or something.
I was a Toyota tech, all of our egrs were vacuum actuated. Thus, a solenoid switch would open allowing manifold vacuum to reach the valve and lift it. Thereby allowing exhaust gas to dilute the air/fuel charge.
In the Toyota world, the vacuum diaphragm would crap out and the valve wouldn't lift.
To diagnose an egr, we'd use a handheld vacuum pump to be sure the valve lifted -the engine would stumble at idle.
Then, we check the supply circuit for vacuum using the vacuum gauge. Steadily Rev the engine and look for the vacuum reading. Look at the vacuum diagram on the sticker of the hood. Follow the vacuum hoses checking for a signal all the way back to the intake manifold.
Try getting a repair manual too. A handheld vacuum pump/gauge maybe could be rented at an auto parts store like advance. Or bought for $30?
What are you driving? Year ,engine?
If this doesn't work, I might be able to get more specific.
Take a good look at the vacuum lines too. Maybe one is torn or loose, plus there may be a vacuum switching valve in the circuit. You could jumper that and see if it is stuck.
Last edited by Brocko; 01-29-2016 at 12:39 AM. Reason: More info
01-29-2016, 04:56 PM
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Re: P0401 honda accord.
First off, thank you for the reply. You put a lot of detail into your answer and I appreciate that. I have been advised by the mechanic that it could possible be a electrical issue that's triggering the light. The only reason I had the kit installed is because a master honda tech said that's what the issue was. I will drive my car over 100 miles and see if the light shuts off... I might have to bite the bullet and take it into a honda dealership like you recommended. Most places don't like working on my car once they figure out I have already gotten work done and they see I already have the codes and can't charge me for the code diagnostic/inspection etc. I'll look into the recall information and hope something works out. Thanks again.
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