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Old 02-26-2008, 11:18 AM   #1
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Default Oil warning light flashes

Hi,

My husband just got the oil changed in our car and now the low oil warning light flashes then goes out. Is there something that needed to be reset once the oil change is done? Our car is a 1994 Accord EX. We checked the oil, and it is full, but not overfull. Any suggestions?
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Old 02-26-2008, 11:35 AM   #2
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Default Re: Oil warning light flashes (lonewsome)

It is the oil pressure warning light. Before finding the real problem, stop driving the car. Otherwise, you may destroy your engine.

Possible problems are bad oil pressure switch, blocked oil pick up tube or screen, or oil pump.

Start from the easier fix.
Check the engine oil pressure by using an oil pressure gauge.
Change the oil pressure switch
Clean the oil pick up tube and screen.
Change oil pump.

I am experiencing the same problem now. My oil pressure indicate light starts flashing after driving 20 minutes and when engine is idle. I have just changed the oil pressure siwtch and cleaned the oil pick up screen. I am still in test driving. If the problem persists, I will try to fix it by changing the indicate circuit. The last option will be change the oil pump.
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Old 02-26-2008, 02:30 PM   #3
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Default Re: Oil warning light flashes (billyrusa)

He is right oil pressure is the oil lamp light it is red. If it is just the service req. light that is yellow it is just a maintinace minder!
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Old 02-28-2008, 08:01 AM   #4
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Default Re: Oil warning light flashes (billyrusa)

Thank you. Before we had the oil changed we had an oil leak which is now gone. Took the car back to the guys who did the oil change and they checked it out but found no reason for this light to come on at all. I will give my husband your suggestions and hopefully we can solve this.

Thank you again.
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Old 02-28-2008, 09:24 AM   #5
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I could just be a faulty sensor, or your oil pump could be on its way out. If its the latter, you may have some big problems coming.







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Old 02-28-2008, 10:05 AM   #6
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Default Re: Oil warning light flashes (lonewsome)

You stop stop driving the car period until you can find out what is wrong with it. I made the error of driving it since I figured it still had oil. I ended up messing up the engine. I had to get a new one swapped in.
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Old 02-28-2008, 11:49 AM   #7
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Default Re: Oil warning light flashes (kr310)

I had the same problem with my '92 LX caused by a bad oil pressure sending unit. It's a $10 part and easy to change on the back of the block.
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Old 02-28-2008, 02:10 PM   #8
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Generally, when you change the oil on the car, you should ALWAYS let the car idle while stationary until the oil pressure builds back up to normal. This could be the reason the oil pressure light is on, because you're too stupid to let the pressure build back up to normal before you drive the car again. It generally takes a couple minutes of idling before the oil pressure is back to normal. If nothing is wrong with the oil system, the light will go off on its own once the oil pressure is back to normal. If you tear up that damn car because of your own ignorance and negligence, there's nothing we can do to help you, and that kind of mistake is NOT covered under warranty, so if you tear up the engine because you didn't let the oil pressure build back up to normal before driving the car, you're looking at a complete engine rebuild or even a remanufactured (or new) engine, and you'd better expect to fork over at least $2,000 or more. Wait 5 minutes for the oil pressure to return to normal or spend $2,000 on a new engine...Gee, let's see...The SMART thing to do is wait the 5 minutes for the oil pressure to return to normal. People as dumb as you shouldn't even be allowed to own a car, because its obvious you can't take care of it properly. If 5 minutes of idling is "wasting too much gas", then I say screw the damn car...If you're that concerned about gas prices and fuel economy, ride a bus or ride a bicycle.


Modified by otacon122 at 5:21 PM 2/28/2008
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Old 02-28-2008, 02:19 PM   #9
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Default Re: (otacon122)

WTF? It takes about 2 seconds for oil pressure to be normal. Less if you let oil soak into the new filter before you put it on.
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Old 02-28-2008, 02:23 PM   #10
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Default Re: (2accrds)

So I overestimated the time...So what? Better safe than sorry, I say. If the oil pressure light is still on after 5 minutes of idling, then there's something wrong...Seriously wrong, and the car should be TOWED to a dealership or auto repair shop for a checkup. I think it is absolutely PATHETIC that people do not take proper care of their cars, then turn around and whine, bitch and moan when the car breaks down. Well, smartass, if you'd take care of the damn thing, it wouldn't break down, now would it? Some people are just too stupid to be allowed to own a car nowadays.
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Old 02-28-2008, 02:27 PM   #11
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Default Re: (otacon122)

Quote:
Originally Posted by otacon122
Generally, when you change the oil on the car, you should ALWAYS let the car idle while stationary until the oil pressure builds back up to normal. This could be the reason the oil pressure light is on, because you're too stupid to let the pressure build back up to normal before you drive the car again. It generally takes a couple minutes of idling before the oil pressure is back to normal. If nothing is wrong with the oil system, the light will go off on its own once the oil pressure is back to normal. If you tear up that damn car because of your own ignorance and negligence, there's nothing we can do to help you, and that kind of mistake is NOT covered under warranty, so if you tear up the engine because you didn't let the oil pressure build back up to normal before driving the car, you're looking at a complete engine rebuild or even a remanufactured (or new) engine, and you'd better expect to fork over at least $2,000 or more. Wait 5 minutes for the oil pressure to return to normal or spend $2,000 on a new engine...Gee, let's see...The SMART thing to do is wait the 5 minutes for the oil pressure to return to normal. People as dumb as you shouldn't even be allowed to own a car, because its obvious you can't take care of it properly. If 5 minutes of idling is "wasting too much gas", then I say screw the damn car...If you're that concerned about gas prices and fuel economy, ride a bus or ride a bicycle.


Modified by otacon122 at 5:21 PM 2/28/2008

lol at you for being a dumbass n00b.

it takes all of 2 seconds for the presure to rebuild.. and im sorry you are an angry wanna be grease monkey.


as for the OP's problem.. when is the light on? randomly.. when idling.. right on start up it blinks (normal) or when driving?
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Old 02-28-2008, 02:36 PM   #12
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Default Re: (sony224422)

The OP's problem is the oil pressure light comes on while driving...If it had sent a warning at startup, the mechanic who changed the oil would have noticed it when they started the car...No-brainer. To the OP: This is why I'm upset, because people are too damn STUPID to properly take care of things, then they run to us for help when things break down. Whenever ANYTHING OUT OF THE ORDINARY happens with the car (like when an idiot light on the dash comes on), the car should be taken IMMEDIATELY to a certified mechanic for inspection and maintenance. And I would NOT take the car back to the people changing the oil, because there's a high probability they did a ****-poor job, and in that case, they won't tell you that something is wrong because if they did, they'd get into trouble.

Cars are like children...You treat them right and take proper care of them, and they are the best things in the world...Neglect and abuse them, however, and you will wish you never made the mistake in the first place. Also, like children, cars need regular checkups. Skipping a checkup or waiting too long for one is not only bad, it can harm the car, and that kind of damage is NOT covered under warranty and almost always results in a very expensive (hint: hundreds or thousands of dollars) repair bill, or that big junkpile in the sky.

I think it is absolutely pathetic that people do not take proper care of any of the things they have, even their cars, then turn right around and expect us to help them. The truth is, we cannot help you fix the damage caused by your own ignorance and neglect. We are not mechanics. We do not have magic powers to bring the car back from the dead. I am upset simply because people neglect and abuse things, then expect me to help them when it breaks. If you'd use that big grey mass in your thick head, you'd actually take care of your car so it WON'T break down.

Also, from now on, I'd find another mechanic if I were you. I don't know which one you use, but I will say this: Jiffy Lube, Valvoline, and all those other street-corner "Home of the $19.95 oil change" quick-e-lubes hire 16 year olds off the street and let them work on people's cars, while places like MIDAS and MEINEKE require ALL of their mechanics to get their Automotive Service Excellence certification. This is a classic example of "You get what you pay for". El Cheapo price equals El Cheapo service. I pay $39.95 at Meineke for an oil change, and I get synthetic-blend oil with a performance 0.1-micron oil filter and a complete visual inspection of the car, tire rotation and balance check, brake check, and even get brought in to the garage to look at any problems with my car that the mechanic finds...And the best part? They ONLY DO WHAT I ASK THEM TO DO AND THEY NEVER TRY TO SELL ME SHIT I DO NOT NEED. Fuel injector cleaner is cheap, can be found at any auto parts store or gas station, and can be used in the car by the person driving the car. A new air filter is the same way. Cheap, can be found at an auto parts store, and can be installed yourself. Fuel injector cleaner and inspecting and replacing the air filter are by far the EASIEST things you can do with a car. I even went in to Meineke to ask if they could install a strut tower bar for my car, and the guy just looked at me and said, "You could do that yourself in about 15 minutes...Its as easy as removing one or two bolts on each side, then bolting the thing in place. Jack the car up and make sure the wheels are blocked, then install the strut bar. Shouldn't take more than 15 to 20 minutes. Don't waste your money with us when you can do it yourself".

If a mechanic tries to sell you a new air filter or fuel injector cleaner as part of your oil change service, that's a sure sign all they want from you is your money. And they charge you out the wazoo for both of those. Save your money and get those yourself. Also, the gas you use makes a huge difference. Low quality "Discount gas" like the **** at 7-11 can actually do more harm than good because it causes carbon and "gunk" build-up on critical engine parts, destroying the engine in a slow death like that of a smoker's black lung disease or an asthmatic's ever-decreasing lung function. Spend the extra 10 to 25 cents on "Top-Tier" rated gasoline like the stuff at Shell, Phillips 66, or quicktrip, as the Top-Tier rating is a detergent gasoline standard that indicates the gasoline actively cleans the engine as you drive. Checking the air pressure in the tires is also a no-brainer job, and more air put into the tires is also a no-brainer. Checking and refilling the fluids is also a no-brainer, so do not pay extra for that service at a mechanic, either.

Changing the oil is a no-brainer job as well...Jack the front end of the car up, look for that big drain plug on the bottom of the engine, put an oil pan under it and unplug it, let the oil drain out, then once that is done, take off the old oil filter and put the drain plug back in. Open up a new oil filter, soak it in NEW oil for a couple minutes, put it on (tighten it by hand until it locks in place, then give it an extra quarter-turn), then refill the engine with NEW oil, start the car and let it idle for a few seconds, then lower the car, take off the jack, check the oil level, and if its good, close the hood and drive away.


Modified by otacon122 at 6:40 PM 2/28/2008
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Old 02-28-2008, 03:54 PM   #13
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Default Re: (otacon122)

I do not have time to read you message. However, I will not let my car's oil light on couple minutes. If the oil pressure can not be built up in a few seconds (usually within a second even in cold morning), I will stop the engine to avoid trash my engine. Notice the oil rate as xxW-xx such as 10W-30? The first number is the is related to the viscosity for cold engine and second number is for normal running engine. The reason for lower viscosity is for fast built up oil pressure for cold engine.

Anyhow, couple minutes oil pressure built-up can burn the engine very soon. You should alwasy see the light is off in second.
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Old 02-28-2008, 04:16 PM   #14
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Default Re: (otacon122)

WTF otacon122, get the sand out of your vagina, damn!! relax...

I'll save the rest for the PM I'll be sending you.

Keep the thread on topic or don't post at all.
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Old 02-28-2008, 05:16 PM   #15
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Default Re: (otacon122)

Quote:
Originally Posted by otacon122
The OP's problem is the oil pressure light comes on while driving...If it had sent a warning at startup, the mechanic who changed the oil would have noticed it when they started the car...No-brainer. To the OP: This is why I'm upset, because people are too damn STUPID to properly take care of things, then they run to us for help when things break down. Whenever ANYTHING OUT OF THE ORDINARY happens with the car (like when an idiot light on the dash comes on), the car should be taken IMMEDIATELY to a certified mechanic for inspection and maintenance. And I would NOT take the car back to the people changing the oil, because there's a high probability they did a ****-poor job, and in that case, they won't tell you that something is wrong because if they did, they'd get into trouble.


How do you know when their problem is? I don't see it stated anywhere. So, if your check engine light comes on, you go straight to the dealer? LOL at you for not knowing how to fix your own crap and having to pay "top dollar" to get it fixed. Also, theres a "HIGH" possiblilty if the oil level is right, that they didn't mess it up. They obvliously do take care of the car, seeing that they went to get the oil changed.

Cars are like children...You treat them right and take proper care of them, and they are the best things in the world...Neglect and abuse them, however, and you will wish you never made the mistake in the first place. Also, like children, cars need regular checkups. Skipping a checkup or waiting too long for one is not only bad, it can harm the car, and that kind of damage is NOT covered under warranty and almost always results in a very expensive (hint: hundreds or thousands of dollars) repair bill, or that big junkpile in the sky.

I don't even want to get into this.. theres something unheathly here...

I think it is absolutely pathetic that people do not take proper care of any of the things they have, even their cars, then turn right around and expect us to help them. The truth is, we cannot help you fix the damage caused by your own ignorance and neglect. We are not mechanics. We do not have magic powers to bring the car back from the dead. I am upset simply because people neglect and abuse things, then expect me to help them when it breaks. If you'd use that big grey mass in your thick head, you'd actually take care of your car so it WON'T break down.

Personally, i think you are pathetic, ranting on an online forum about nothing. you have diarehha of the mouth. You can't even help yourself fix something, so no one here expects you to help anyone else. This is however, an online forum, where people come here to LEARN HOW TO FIX THEIR CAR.

Also, from now on, I'd find another mechanic if I were you. I don't know which one you use, but I will say this: Jiffy Lube, Valvoline, and all those other street-corner "Home of the $19.95 oil change" quick-e-lubes hire 16 year olds off the street and let them work on people's cars, while places like MIDAS and MEINEKE require ALL of their mechanics to get their Automotive Service Excellence certification. This is a classic example of "You get what you pay for". El Cheapo price equals El Cheapo service. I pay $39.95 at Meineke for an oil change, and I get synthetic-blend oil with a performance 0.1-micron oil filter and a complete visual inspection of the car, tire rotation and balance check, brake check, and even get brought in to the garage to look at any problems with my car that the mechanic finds...And the best part? They ONLY DO WHAT I ASK THEM TO DO AND THEY NEVER TRY TO SELL ME SHIT I DO NOT NEED. Fuel injector cleaner is cheap, can be found at any auto parts store or gas station, and can be used in the car by the person driving the car. A new air filter is the same way. Cheap, can be found at an auto parts store, and can be installed yourself. Fuel injector cleaner and inspecting and replacing the air filter are by far the EASIEST things you can do with a car. I even went in to Meineke to ask if they could install a strut tower bar for my car, and the guy just looked at me and said, "You could do that yourself in about 15 minutes...Its as easy as removing one or two bolts on each side, then bolting the thing in place. Jack the car up and make sure the wheels are blocked, then install the strut bar. Shouldn't take more than 15 to 20 minutes. Don't waste your money with us when you can do it yourself".

Okay, i will agree with you about jiffylube type places. They are hit or miss. However, she never said where they went, for all we know she could have gone to honda Click the image to open in full size. I don't see how you can possiblily "bash" someone for not changing their own oil, when you yourself just said you don't do it, and pay $40+ tax (LOL @ being raped too btw) to do it for you. What does installing an air filter or fuel cleaner have to do with it. And sorry not everyone is an EXPERT mechanic like you obvliously are, being able to pay for your oil to be changed and having to ask to have your supAr awesome strut bar to be installed for you. I guess you don't know everything either, and i should be bashing you because you don't know how to install that?

If a mechanic tries to sell you a new air filter or fuel injector cleaner as part of your oil change service, that's a sure sign all they want from you is your money. And they charge you out the wazoo for both of those. Save your money and get those yourself. Also, the gas you use makes a huge difference. Low quality "Discount gas" like the **** at 7-11 can actually do more harm than good because it causes carbon and "gunk" build-up on critical engine parts, destroying the engine in a slow death like that of a smoker's black lung disease or an asthmatic's ever-decreasing lung function. Spend the extra 10 to 25 cents on "Top-Tier" rated gasoline like the stuff at Shell, Phillips 66, or quicktrip, as the Top-Tier rating is a detergent gasoline standard that indicates the gasoline actively cleans the engine as you drive. Checking the air pressure in the tires is also a no-brainer job, and more air put into the tires is also a no-brainer. Checking and refilling the fluids is also a no-brainer, so do not pay extra for that service at a mechanic, either.

Lol at you sounding like a ricer as well as a moron. If a mechanic says that your air filter is dirty, it mostlikely is. Granted, you don't have to buy it there, its nice to have someone tell you its ready to be changed if you are uncapable of seeing that for yourself. Gas stations all have standards they have to abide by to be able to sell gas. If you fall into the hype of some gas being better than others then so be it. There might be a tiny slight difference, but you're not going to see it unless you are constently using the same brand which im sure no one is. Most places that change your oil will also top off your fluids for you at no extra


Changing the oil is a no-brainer job as well...Jack the front end of the car up, look for that big drain plug on the bottom of the engine, put an oil pan under it and unplug it, let the oil drain out, then once that is done, take off the old oil filter and put the drain plug back in. Open up a new oil filter, soak it in NEW oil for a couple minutes, put it on (tighten it by hand until it locks in place, then give it an extra quarter-turn), then refill the engine with NEW oil, start the car and let it idle for a few seconds, then lower the car, take off the jack, check the oil level, and if its good, close the hood and drive away.

As i said before, if its so easy then why do you pay for it, but bash others for paying for it? I'm sure you have a good enough reason, just like she does, being that either they don't have the proper tools, don't feel like freezing to death laying on her back (under the car Click the image to open in full size. ) or don't have the time therefore there is no reason for you to be attacking her about it. She had a service done, and now wants to know a reason why her car is "sick".

Also, qouted for ricer, idioticy, and asshatery Click the image to open in full size.

Modified by otacon122 at 6:40 PM 2/28/2008
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Old 02-28-2008, 05:52 PM   #16
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Default Re: (sony224422)

cut it out please...

I don't want to purge the entire thread to get rid of this but I will if we don't get it back on topic.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 02-28-2008, 06:19 PM   #17
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Default Re: Oil warning light flashes (lonewsome)

Quote:
Originally Posted by lonewsome
Thank you. Before we had the oil changed we had an oil leak which is now gone. Took the car back to the guys who did the oil change and they checked it out but found no reason for this light to come on at all. I will give my husband your suggestions and hopefully we can solve this.

Thank you again.

where was the leak at by the way.. best describe it if you can please.
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Old 03-02-2008, 10:41 PM   #18
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Default Re: (sony224422)

otacon 122 has issues. severe ones. it is obvious that he is not a mechanic of any type. The pure reason that this person came here was to get advice about the issues she is having with their vehicle, TRYING TO TAKE CARE OF IT!!! if he wants to take it up the *** by paying $40 for a service, I'll just snicker and let him do it. It's sorta funny how people rant about nothing in such a long damn thread.... By the way, a lot of us here ARE mechanics. Not everyone knows anything at all about cars, which is why service personel inform them that the car is in need of something. And by the way, if he waits 5 minutes for an oil light to go off....WOW! Whatever.... Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 03-03-2008, 09:01 AM   #19
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locked Click the image to open in full size.

people just don't listen some times...
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Old 01-01-2009, 12:35 PM   #20
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Icon2 Re: Oil warning light flashes (lonewsome)

a billyrusa I have the exact problem as you after 20mins of driving my Rsx types at idle my oil light will flicker on and off did you find out why it was doing that. I changed the oil pressure switch cleaned the vtec solinoid gasket. Oil level cool.
Quote:
Originally Posted by billyrusa View Post
It
is the oil pressure warning light. Before finding the real problem, stop driving the car. Otherwise, you may destroy your engine.

Possible problems are bad oil pressure switch, blocked oil pick up tube or screen, or oil pump.

Start from the easier fix.
Check the engine oil pressure by using an oil pressure gauge.
Change the oil pressure switch
Clean the oil pick up tube and screen.
Change oil pump.

I am experiencing the same problem now. My oil pressure indicate light starts flashing after driving 20 minutes and when engine is idle. I have just changed the oil pressure siwtch and cleaned the oil pick up screen. I am still in test driving. If the problem persists, I will try to fix it by changing the indicate circuit. The last option will be change the oil pump.
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Old 01-01-2009, 01:42 PM   #21
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Default Re: Oil warning light flashes

Quote:
Originally Posted by lonewsome View Post
Hi,

My husband just got the oil changed in our car and now the low oil warning light flashes then goes out. Is there something that needed to be reset once the oil change is done? Our car is a 1994 Accord EX. We checked the oil, and it is full, but not overfull. Any suggestions?
There are several things which can cause this; some of which has been discussed?? here. I may / may not confirm some and add others.

Physical damage:
Defective / marginal Oil Pressure Sender Unit (mounted above the oil filter)
Damaged oil pan. (parkig lot damage pushed the pan upward into the oil pickup - reducing flow)

Maintaince damage: Sludge buildup
Clogged Oil Pump Pickup - from the gradual build up of sludge from extended oil change intervals.
Clogged Oil return passages - Keeps the oil from draining from the head, starves the Oil Pump pickup

Unanticipated:
Fresh oil change started breaking up sludge deposits which fell into the pan cloggeing the Oil Pump Pickup

It (the light) flashes when first started because the oil is thick (relative to when it's warm(er)) and doesn't flow easily (particularly thru a restriction (Clog)). Once warm, the oil thins out making it easier to pump and circulate.

P
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#1 '97 CD7 SE Accord Coupe San Marino Red / #2 '96 CD7 LX Accord Coupe Arctic White / #3 '96 EJ8 EX Civic Coupe Black / #4 '88 LXi Coupe (spare)
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