Hondatastic

Car is a...
1996 Honda Accord
4 Cylinder
4 door
EX (Has power windows locks etc.)

I need to replace the CV joins or axle assembly on my Accord. I can do some car work, replacing certain parts, , tune up, starter, alternator, pumps, brakes, etc. but I couldn't rebuild or install an engine from scratch.

Does anyone know of any good tutorial sites for replacing CV joints, axle assembly or can offer some advice on how to do it.

From what I have been told it is much easier to just replace the axle assembly so that is what I am probably going to do and if there was a site that showed the steps and pictures it would be great. Does anyone have an idea of how much the axle assembly will cost, I need to fix both sides I believe since I hear a clicking sound when I turn either way.

Also does anyone know of a good place to get the Full Service Manual for my model of Accord? I have heard they can cost a lot so hopefully there is a cheaper place to get one.

The-Kid

Cheapest service manual is Haynes, but best one is Helms.

I got my half shafts from Autozone. Looks good and works well. The shorter half cost more for some reason. I think 50 and 80. Lifetime warranty. Why nots

professorman

I got mine from Autozone as well. I am in need of a new one for my passenger side now.

Hondatastic

Is the technical term for the part I need to replace called an axle assembly?

I looked it up on a web and I think this is the correct part.

O'REILLY/MASTER PRO - Left Remanufactured CV Complete Assembly:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3...age=0


Is replacing this easier than replacing the CV joints?


Modified by Hondatastic at 11:21 AM 5/19/2008

professorman

Your link didnt work, but the CV joint is a part of the axle. The axle goes from the transmission to the wheel, and it has two CV joints on each axle. It has a outer CV joint, and an inner one. They both have rubber boots around them. The most common failure of CV joints is because the rubber boot rips/tears and dirt get up into it and prematurely wear it out. Mine are now shot even without the boot ripping though, so I guess it is possible to wear out naturally as well. It is WAY less work to just take out the old axle and put in a new axle than to try taking off the CV joint as well.

The rod that goes straight across from engine to wheels with the two rubber boot covers on the ends is the entire axle. Each rubber boot covers one of the CV joints.

Hondatastic

Not sure what the problem is with the link, it may work to copy and paste this in...
http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3...age=0



Thanks everyone for the info.

Thanks, professorman for the pic and advice.

from what it looks like I got the correct part here.

I was planning on swapping out both sides at the same time, it clicks when I turn it both ways so I think they both need to be replaced, I figured I might as well just go ahead and do them both anyways.

Will the books that you can get at Pep Boys provide good enough details or should I try to ge the full FSM from Honda?

From the picture it looks like it isn't too diffucult to replace. Last time it cost me about $450 to have both sides fixed on a Civic so I would really like to do this myself this time. When someone told me the axle assembly can be replaced much easier than the CV joints I figured I should give it a shot.

Velocifero

1. Loosen lug nuts (19mm) and axle nut (36mm).
2. Jack up car, remove wheel and axle nut.
3. Remove cotter pin from lower ball joint castellated nut and remove nut (17mm).
4. Use this tool to pop out the lower ball joint
5. Put the two arms between the lower control arm and LCA bushing, and unscrew the tool enough to put the center pin part directly underneath the ball joint threads.
6. Turning clockwise (tightening), use a 3/8" drive ratchet at the bottom of the tool to pop the sucker out. You'll know when it's free. I suggest turning it until it bottoms out to save some muscle for the next step.
7. Push in on the axle and lift the steering knuckle up and away from the lower control arm.
8. Remove 17mm nut from the lower shock fork from the control arm. A 17mm backup wrench will likely be needed on the bolt.
9. Hit the bolt out with a flathead screwdriver or whatever you can find to remove it from the control arm.
10. Driverside proceed to step 13. Passengerside keep reading.
11. NOTE: Unless you have spare transmission fluid, prepare to catch the fluid in the next step. If doing passengerside, take a beefy prybar of somekind (I used a big flathead screwdriver) and pry the axle from the transmission. Fluid will come out so be prepared.
12. Maneuver axle shaft between the shock forks to clear from car.

13. For driverside, take something preferably softer (anything will work though) than the axle like a brass drift or piece of wood and hammer away on the axle to push it out of the nearby bracket. No fluid will come out.


Install is opossite of removal and pretty self-explanatory, but I'll mention a few tips.

Remember to:
1. Lube the axle spline. Not the spline which enters the transmission, which is lubricated by transmission fluid.
2. Ensure the snap ring is at the end of the axle entering the transmission.
3. Make sure the axle snaps into the transmission or intermediate shaft. It should be impossible by hand to pull it free once done correctly.
4. Keep the CV joints together! So important. Once pulled apart, you usually need a new axle. If you have no idea what I'm talking about, try it to the old axle, but I wouldn't just in case you mess up the new one.
5. Line up the holes on the castle nut of the lower ball joint and the hole in the ball joint and replace the cotter pin to keep the nut from becoming loose.
6. Get an alignment. Anytime you remove a ball joint, you need an alignment because the previous settings are now off due to the tension being removed from the joints.

Good luck.

Hondatastic

Velocifero,

Great, thanks a lot for posting all of the steps and tips on how to replace the axle assembly.

So the main tools I need are 17mm, 19mm, 36m sockets and the tool to pop out the lower ball joint. What is the name of the tool you pictured? I'll have to pick one up when I get the parts.

Is it possible to do an alignment myself, dang I'm a cheap sucker. I don't mind paying for it though since it is necessary.

Thanks.

professorman

If you plan on keeping the car for more than 2 years, I would recommend you get the lifetime alignment from Firestone. They do suck a lil, but it cost the same as getting two alignments done, and you can get an alignment every 6 months or whenever necessary.

Velocifero

No problem man. I've had to change both axles twice within a few months so I know exactly what needs to be done without unnecessary steps. Autozone has that tool for $13, or you can rent it for $10 I think. I rented it the first time but ended up buying it after realizing I'd need it when I did my bushings and upper control arms. Don't do the alignment yourself. Your eyes are not an accurate indicator at all on whether or not you have camber, caster, or toe. I have the lifetime alignment plan from Firestone and it has already paid for itself. I got it because I have coilovers, but I've used it almost 10 times in a matter of about a year for other things such as bushing installs, brake upgrades, axle changes, hitting road obstructions. They usually ask, but tell them anyway on why I want another alignment so they don't BS the job and know it's for a good reason.

That axle nut may be the most physically difficult part of the job. I used a 18" breaker bar to break it free, but I barely got it. It may require an airgun to it. If you lack one, a shop might just do it for free, not Firestone though.

Velocifero

Oh, I failed to mention this was done on a manual prelude transmission on an Accord chassis. The prelude thing shouldnt matter, but the manual part might. Automatics may be different. I've never owned an auto Accord, so I don't know.

rhdins

I would recommend the lifetime warranty, got my axle from autozone, and it went bad after only a year, but I got it replaced for free, just had to spend another hour changing it out.

y2kferari

I know this thread is forever old. But I have a very important, yet stupid question to ask.

Is reply #5(by profesorman), the picture has the cv joint, and right behind it(another joint of some sort), what is the name of that part? And what does it effect? I would assume steering, but if that boot gets torn, would would it effect the drive? thanx in advance

No VDUBS here in206

its just another one, it helps the axle be flexable enough to spin the wheel and adjust to road conditions. if the boot it torn, the lubricants will escape and in a matter of time the internals to it will wear down and break

y2kferari

So I just purchase 2 more cv joints and they will bolt right up?

bijay

I am having problem removing the bolt that ties up the suspension fork with the lower control arm. It looks like the bolt is caught up in the control arm bushing rubber, that it springs back when i turn it with a wrench, but cannot drive it out by hammering the nut end. Do i have to compress the spring on shock to relieve the load on it or any better way to get it out? Any suggestion would be highly appreciated.
The inner end of the CV joint it too big in diameter to pass through the gap in fork.

djkurious

Put a jack under the arm to compress the spring to loosen the pressure on the bolt then remove it.

bijay

Putting the jack under the arm is going to increase the load on the bolt instead of relieving it.

kidcool1977

when using this tool to free the ball joint from the control arm does it damage the ball joint boot, like the fork does?.

bijay

You've got to make sure that you dont have the jaws riding on boot material. That way the boot stays safe. But it will definietly squeeze the grease out of the boots. I have used it several times without hurting the boots..Just make sure that you keep it aligned with ball joint stud and also make sure to have the ball joint nut in place to keep the stuf from swelling out while you torque this thing..Swelling of the bolt is the last thing you might want to have.

nebraskaimport

i have found the best way to remove the spindel from the ball joint is get a jack and a block of wood compress the sring by jacking up the spindel by the rotor using the block of wood the protect your rotor the tap around the ball joint with a hammer this is a good way so you dont rip the boot and to remove the fork bolt leave the nut on about 3/4 of the way on that way you can smack it with a hammer and not mess up the threads hope this all helps you