jmdl21980

Some time last week, I posted that my car was not turning over/starting.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2387281


Well After doing what was suggested my car started , but had NO gasoline, so I would start it, but after trying to Rev the engine up, the car would die.

Last night, i wanted to work on the car again, so I went in my other car to get 4 Gallons of Premium Gasoline. I put them in the 91 Accord and the car fired up (with battery Jumper Pack). I tried to drive it, but the car sputters/misfires and has ZERO power once i reach 3000 RPM's

I could technically drive it. its a 5 speed, so i went 1st gear til 3000, then 2nd til 3000 and so on....i was able to reach 65mph shifting all my gears at 3000....but in 5th gear, the rpm's were climbing alittle and once they reached 2800 or so, the car sputters again.

It feels like I have the rev limiter set that low. Spark Plugs are new. When Hurricane Dolly hit my area, the car was parked in the side of the street. Water rose high enough to enter the exhaust, but not the engine.

I had this problem with my Maxima and turned out to be the MAF. What do you guys think?


Modified by jmdl21980 at 11:24 AM 9/26/2008

Ross 2.0

So the check engine light had to be on. Usually when something like this happens it's in the distributor. Pull the cap and rotor off and take a look inside, if it has oil or rusty looking powder on the inside it's time to replace it.
BTW RPM's = revolutions per minutes

jmdl21980

Before the Car stopped working the first time, the check engine light was OFF.

Now, once the car started working again (once the clutch switch was bypassed) the Check Engine Light turned on for the first time.


LoL @ RPM's.....sorry

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

Find out what the CEL is for, then fix the issue?

jmdl21980

How do i find out what the check engine light is for? Autozone said the car was too old for them to read the codes and any shop will charge Minimum $75 bux for a Diagnostic Scan.

Money is Scarce, so i want to see if i can fix the problem myself with Honda-tech's help.

I took some pics of the inside of the Distributor. There was a little Oil in it but it also had a White Powder that looked like Sea Salt.





Modified by jmdl21980 at 11:23 AM 9/26/2008

Ross 2.0

Time for a new distributor. The bearing is dying. Replace those heater hoses while you're at it too.

jmdl21980

Distributor, cap and Rotor replaced. My brother in law works in AutoZone and was able to get the Distributor cheap. Had to pay full price for cap/rotor ($15.97/$3.99).

Was afraid that once i removed the distributor that I wouldn't be able to set it in the right position (like with my Small Block Ford) but this went in without any issues at all!


BUT


My problem still exists! Engine does not go over 3000 RPM.

Any other suggestion?

Still would like to see how i can find the engine codes for the Check Engine light. Can i test it with my OBD1 tester I use on my 92 Ford Mustang?

GhostAccord

Did you reset your ECU after replacing the Distributor? To reset the ECU you can ether Pull the 7.5amp backup fuse in the under hood fuse box for 30-60 seconds or disconnect the (-) battery terminal for 30-60 seconds.

Ford And Honda use different program languages. So you will not be able to use the Ford code reader.

This DIY code reading procedure will work on an Accord as well.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1901557

jmdl21980

Here is another issue. I had never used the "YAHOO ANSWERS" before, but I searched Accord Sputtering and was taken to a page dealing with the Alternator not producing enough voltage to power the electrical system.

I just noticed that the car does not have enough juice to even power the interior Clock.

I took out my volt tester, and with the car on, and the tester grounded, i put the tester on the positive terminal and got the following readings

10.50
10.45
10.40
10.39
10.35
10.28
10.18
10.09
9.98


Had my Girl Friend Write down the numbers as i was reading them off the Voltmeter tester. THEN, i tried Stepped on the gas pedal and again the car dies at 2800 RPM.

So, what i did was hook up my battery Jumper Pack and the Volt Readings increased to

13.4
13.34
13.31

And stayed around that Voltage.....BUT then I went inside, with the Battery Jumper Pack hooked up and revved the car....it revved CLEAN up to 6,000 RPM...but then the car turned off.

I turned the car on again, and the Voltage with the Battery Jumper Pak on was only 9.98~v


So should i remove the Alternator and have it tested? OR is it the Battery that does not hold the charge?

GhostAccord

Take them both in for testing. You should be able to get them both tested for free. At Autozone or one of those US parts depots.

jmdl21980

Battery was good, Alternator Failed.

$69.99 + Core


Installed it right now. The Electrical system seems to be working again. Interior Clock, DOme light, Radio seem to work again, but cut off alittle bit. The Belt was alittle Loose. Tightened it.

Volts after the new alternator are 13.1~v - 13.58~v


Took the car for a spin, and was able to free rev to 6,000 RPM ONCE but then couldn't rev over 3500.

It used to die at 2800 and now at 3500.

The battery wasnt fully charged so, i'm charging it right now.

Hopefully all will fix itself once the battery is charged. I'll keep you posted.

jmdl21980

Not fixed...with the new alternator/Distributor. Car now dies at 3500 RPM

What else should i be looking at?

GhostAccord

Is your check engine light still on?

Did you ever get the original codes that were coming up?

Try retrieving any stored codes that may be on your ECU before you throw any more parts at it.

noobking

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jmdl21980 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not fixed...with the new alternator/Distributor. Car now dies at 3500 RPM

What else should i be looking at?</TD></TR></TABLE>


Turbo it


/sarcasm


Sorry for the useless info, I ran out of ideas after you replaced the alternator. Did you re - pull the 7.5amp backup AFTER you installed the alternator?


What about his EGR valves guys? Could those being clogged do this?

jmdl21980

I read the link posted on how to DIY code read......but I do not have a kick panel like illustrated in the link.

Where would the ECU and that connector that i have to wire together with a wire/paperclip be located on a 91 accord sedan?

GhostAccord

Sorry about that

I forgot that the Civic 2pin connector was on the side of the passenger compartment. Your Accord 2pin connector is hooked up under the glove box.

Hooked up under the dash.


This is the 2pin connector pulled out of it's holder,

these are the two pins that need to be jumped/shorted with a paper clip/wire.

jmdl21980

Awesome.....I'll try the code reading tomorrow morning , and post up the results.


Thanks a Million. Awesome Help!

jmdl21980

Okay, found the Connector and looped it together. Turned the key to the On position, not start. With KOEO the CEL was on for a second then turned off, and STAYED off.


Does that mean there are no codes saved in the ecu?

Also, there is a loud continuous clicking noise coming from a black box bolted to the inner fender adjacent to the battery under hood. I took the connector off, and the noise stopped. Connector on, and the noise starts again.


I'm stummped! Took it to an Automotive Electrician specialist and he didn't know anything either.

dtapia

yes that is correct no codes

Alex_C

you said you only replaced the cap and rotor? You're going to have to put a whole new distributor assembly on, or at least something decent from a wrecker. I get code 9 on my civic and it does the "rev limiter" thing at around 5000 rpm. If replacing the whole dist. assembly works, i'll let you know.