bigwavedave33

Group,

I have a relay labeled rz-0088 that is used in the 90-97 accord with 2.2 4cyl engine. I have a repair manual and have searched the internet as well. They both refer to terminal 4. I have 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, 7, and 8?!?!? So that makes it a biyatch to test. Can someone give me some insight?

TIA,
Dave

Mr Yamada

Are you asking for a schematic/wire diagram for the relay connection plug?

bigwavedave33

No I have found the schematic online and in the manual. They both show position 4, but the one I have does not have pos 4. I'm just lookng for some insight as to what it might be. I have tested it in the car at this point and it does work. There must be a bad line and or bad fuel pump as the fuel pump doesn't make any noise!

Duane_in_Japan

You will be testing for two terminals that do not have power with the key off, yes I know there are many terminals, ok, turn the key on and figure out which terminals get power for a few seconds and then looses power, that should only be one terminal. This is not the GROUND signal from the ECU, that terminal should be powered all the time because it is ground side controlled, your meter is now the ground and it should measure voltage all the time with key on so dont get confused, this is the signal that powers up and closes the relay for the fuel pump. You are looking for the switched portion of the relay.

If this switch portion of the relay does not power up for a few seconds then that relay (one of two inside) is not working and you need a new relay assy.

Not all main relays are wired the same so remember that too, yes I mean on Hondas.

Let me go look for a link, its been a long time since I looked this one up.

First generation relay: Battery(1) fuel pump(7) and ECU/injectors (3).
Second generation relay: Battery(7) fuel pump(4) and ECU/injectors (6).

1. Disconnect the main relay from the connector. Connect your black probe of your multimeter to terminal 2. Connect your red probe to terminal 1. There should be battery voltage. If not then check the ECU fuse.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON. Connect your black probe of your multimeter to terminal 2. Connect your red probe to terminal 5. There should be battery voltage. If not then check the fuse or the ignition switch.
3. Connect your black probe of your multimeter to terminal 2. Connect your red probe to terminal 1. There should be battery voltage. If not then check the ignition switch or the fuse(s.) Turn the ignition switch off.

* If all checks fail then go back to step 1. But instead of using terminal 2, use body ground. If all checks pass then the ground is faulty.
* If all checks pass then the main relay, ECU or fuel pump may be faulty. Continue with main relay bench test.

Note: With the relay connected and the key turn on, the check engine light must go on then off after two seconds in order for the fuel pump to run for the initial 2 seconds after the key is turned on. Another words; no ECU, no fuel pump priming.

If everything works and you still don't hear the second click from the new main relay then the ECU or the connections may be broken.

That took less than two minutes, good to go, forget all the crap I said at the top. Thats just in case you dont have anything at all to go by.


Modified by Duane_in_Japan at 6:16 PM 10/30/2008

bigwavedave33

duane, Thanks for the next insight.

So from what I see if the check engine light doesn't go off after 2 seconds then there is either a fuel pump, ecu, or wiring issue. I pulled the cap off the relay and tested there as well as from the back of the plug.

Key off:

Only Pos 1 has power.

Key on:
Odd side:
Pos 1,3,5 has power
Pos 7 has power for 2 sec

The fuel pump does not run and the check engine light does go off.

Thanks for the help from Japan. Boku wa ju hatchi nen mae yamaguchi ken, iwakuni shi sundeimashita.

bigwavedave33

Ok, so a little background with this car so others are not confused. I bought this car at a border patrol auction. These cars were running at time of siezure, so I knew it was something they did. The border patrol searches the cars pretty well and also looks in the fuel tank. They cut the wires at the access panel to the Fuel level float. I soldered, heat shrink and taped them back together, so I had disregaurded that being a problem.

So with your directions I was able to figure out that the relay was good. From there I tested the B/Y wire that goes to the fuel pump from the relay. I had no juice in the back of the car, but I did at the relay. Since I knew this was the + wire for the fuel pump I ran a direct wire to see if it kicked the fuel pump. No dice. Since I'm not totally familiar with Honda's I hadn't realize that when I put the cover back on the tank and then put the ground wire on one of the 5 studs. Well the tank is not grounded at all! Moved the ground and viola it started right up!!! Thanks for your help!

Duane_in_Japan

Glad you got it fingered out man, Doitoshimashite. Boku wa ju go nen mae tokyo ken, tachikawa shi sundeimashita.

peter naylor

i canot find this relay can somebody please draw me a detailed sketch to pinpoint exactly where this can be seen mine is a 1992 2.2 auto estate petrol it also has the clifford alarm and auto start system