Lowering a 94 accord
#1
Lowering a 94 accord
So i bought some neuspeed 1.75" drop springs for my accord and was preparing to put them on this last sunday when my mechanic who was helping me said i had a "modified a" and i needed a lowering camber kit or camber kit in general,... in order to lower my car. I was looking up how much camber kits cost and saw anywhere from 60- to 100$.
Question 1: What type of camber kit do i need? Is it any or does it need to be specified for lowering?
Question 2: Would ones off ebay be ok for this or do i need to drop the big $ which i already did on the springs, so if i can get away going cheaper on this i would like to.
Let me know, and any other info or tips are more then welcome!
Thanks.
Question 1: What type of camber kit do i need? Is it any or does it need to be specified for lowering?
Question 2: Would ones off ebay be ok for this or do i need to drop the big $ which i already did on the springs, so if i can get away going cheaper on this i would like to.
Let me know, and any other info or tips are more then welcome!
Thanks.
#2
Re: Lowering a 94 accord
Some people will say camber kits are a waste of money. I however, got them for the front and rear since both camber and doe DO affect wear.
For the front you can either get a balljoint or a anchor bolt style kit. Either will work. However, w/ cheaper kits the bushing will wear out and squeak like crazy. I opted for the Ingalls balljoint camber kit. GREAT kit, but it will sometimes hit the inner fender but its no big dead and I am dropped almost another inch more than you. They have two versions based on how low you are.
For the rear you can do the bolt and washer trick. I got the Wicked rear camber kit and its working great.
$115 for the front, $90 for the rear.
For the front you can either get a balljoint or a anchor bolt style kit. Either will work. However, w/ cheaper kits the bushing will wear out and squeak like crazy. I opted for the Ingalls balljoint camber kit. GREAT kit, but it will sometimes hit the inner fender but its no big dead and I am dropped almost another inch more than you. They have two versions based on how low you are.
For the rear you can do the bolt and washer trick. I got the Wicked rear camber kit and its working great.
$115 for the front, $90 for the rear.
#6
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Lowering a 94 accord
unfortunately your mechanic was wrong. camber kits are not required to actually install the springs. and its up to you if you want to install them to correct the negative camber caused by lowering. not to start a debate but go look at the sticky at the top of the suspension forum, the pros over they say no camber kit is needed. but do get an alignment to straighten out the toe.
#7
He knows where you live!
iTrader: (1)
Re: Lowering a 94 accord
unfortunately your mechanic was wrong. camber kits are not required to actually install the springs. and its up to you if you want to install them to correct the negative camber caused by lowering. not to start a debate but go look at the sticky at the top of the suspension forum, the pros over they say no camber kit is needed. but do get an alignment to straighten out the toe.
But everything else I agree completely.
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#8
Re: Lowering a 94 accord
unfortunately your mechanic was wrong. camber kits are not required to actually install the springs. and its up to you if you want to install them to correct the negative camber caused by lowering. not to start a debate but go look at the sticky at the top of the suspension forum, the pros over they say no camber kit is needed. but do get an alignment to straighten out the toe.
#9
He knows where you live!
iTrader: (1)
Re: Lowering a 94 accord
Your upper control arm = modified A ????
Read any of the suspension FAQ's in here
With just springs you will see minimal camber issues. With coilovers/sleeveovers/struts&spring combos you will see more camber and MAY want to correct it for performance reasons, which is what I did.
They are not required and you will see minimal to no tire wear with negative camber. With your toe set to anything other than the acceptable range from Honda you will eat tires like a fat kid eats cake.
Your friend needs to do a bit more learning at Wiotech, and I wouldn't talk to that mechanic again.
Read any of the suspension FAQ's in here
With just springs you will see minimal camber issues. With coilovers/sleeveovers/struts&spring combos you will see more camber and MAY want to correct it for performance reasons, which is what I did.
They are not required and you will see minimal to no tire wear with negative camber. With your toe set to anything other than the acceptable range from Honda you will eat tires like a fat kid eats cake.
Your friend needs to do a bit more learning at Wiotech, and I wouldn't talk to that mechanic again.
#10
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Re: Lowering a 94 accord
Now that is what my buddy from wiotech thought but when we removed the wheel and looked behind it he said he thought you could adjust it but with my wierd " modified A" i could not...? and he seemed kinda stumped so my mechanic friend who works for a local shop kinda took over and shut him up and said i needed a camber kit for my car because of the modified a and there was no way around it and called it a day. If hes wrong then ill have me and my bud from wiotech do it this weekend... anyone else have a 1994 accord they lowered with springs?
#11
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Lowering a 94 accord
Now that is what my buddy from wiotech thought but when we removed the wheel and looked behind it he said he thought you could adjust it but with my wierd " modified A" i could not...? and he seemed kinda stumped so my mechanic friend who works for a local shop kinda took over and shut him up and said i needed a camber kit for my car because of the modified a and there was no way around it and called it a day. If hes wrong then ill have me and my bud from wiotech do it this weekend... anyone else have a 1994 accord they lowered with springs?
this is all you need to do to install the springs
Originally Posted by 94eg!
Put the car on jack-stands
Remove the wheels
Front suspension:
- Unbolt brake lines from shocks
- Remove bolt that connects the damper fork to the LCA
- Remove bolt that connects the damper fork to the shock
- Remove the damper fork
- Remove two nuts that connect the shock to the shock tower (in engine bay)
- Remove the shock assembly from the car
Rear suspension:
- Remove bolt that connects shock to LCA
- Remove two nuts that connect the shock to the shock tower (in trunk)
- Remove the shock assembly from the car
Disassembling of shock assembly:
- Make mark on shock body & upper mount so you can reinstall it exactly the same
- Install spring compressor that you rented from auto-parts store
- Compress spring until there is no preload between the upper & lower spring perches
- Remove top nut at the end of the shock shaft
- Remove entire upper shock mount from shock shaft (don't loose any parts)
- Remove spring
- Slowly decompress spring
- Install new spring
- Reinstall upper mount & line it up with your markings (use compressor if necessary)
- Reinstall top nut & torque to spec
- Repeat for all shocks
Reinstall all shocks but don't tighten any bolts or nuts down
Bolt brake lines to front shocks & make sure the bolts are tight
Reinstall damper forks on front shocks
Make sure notch in damper forks line up with tab on back of the shocks
Make sure the shocks is seated all the way into the damper forks
Reinstall bolts that connect damper forks to LCAs, but don't tighten them
Torque down pinch bolts that connect damper forks to the front shocks
Loosen ALL suspenison bolts that travel through the center of a bushing a couple turns
Starting at one corner, Use a jack & jack up the LCA until the car barely lifts off the nearest jack-stand
Torque all nuts & bolts of the lifted suspension corner to spec
Move to next corner & repeat the "jacking & torquing" process
Reinstall wheels
Test drive
Remove the wheels
Front suspension:
- Unbolt brake lines from shocks
- Remove bolt that connects the damper fork to the LCA
- Remove bolt that connects the damper fork to the shock
- Remove the damper fork
- Remove two nuts that connect the shock to the shock tower (in engine bay)
- Remove the shock assembly from the car
Rear suspension:
- Remove bolt that connects shock to LCA
- Remove two nuts that connect the shock to the shock tower (in trunk)
- Remove the shock assembly from the car
Disassembling of shock assembly:
- Make mark on shock body & upper mount so you can reinstall it exactly the same
- Install spring compressor that you rented from auto-parts store
- Compress spring until there is no preload between the upper & lower spring perches
- Remove top nut at the end of the shock shaft
- Remove entire upper shock mount from shock shaft (don't loose any parts)
- Remove spring
- Slowly decompress spring
- Install new spring
- Reinstall upper mount & line it up with your markings (use compressor if necessary)
- Reinstall top nut & torque to spec
- Repeat for all shocks
Reinstall all shocks but don't tighten any bolts or nuts down
Bolt brake lines to front shocks & make sure the bolts are tight
Reinstall damper forks on front shocks
Make sure notch in damper forks line up with tab on back of the shocks
Make sure the shocks is seated all the way into the damper forks
Reinstall bolts that connect damper forks to LCAs, but don't tighten them
Torque down pinch bolts that connect damper forks to the front shocks
Loosen ALL suspenison bolts that travel through the center of a bushing a couple turns
Starting at one corner, Use a jack & jack up the LCA until the car barely lifts off the nearest jack-stand
Torque all nuts & bolts of the lifted suspension corner to spec
Move to next corner & repeat the "jacking & torquing" process
Reinstall wheels
Test drive
#12
Re: Lowering a 94 accord
question for nus dogg my control arms hit the top of the fender well with no camber kit installed these control arms your talking about for an ef whats the difference i got tien basics and 6 turns up still hits any info thankss,,,
#13
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Lowering a 94 accord
tires wear out quickly on the inside/outside from toe being out of spec not camber.
If you have a 40,000 mile tire on a car with no camber and one with camber they will both last the same amount of miles. One will just wear out on the inside and one in the middle. but both will last 40,000 miles
if the car with camber ALSO has the toe out of spec they will also wear on the inside but at a much faster rate due to the tires not being pointed in the direction they are trying to go.
So no you dont need a camber kit to lower your car. yes you do need an alignment afterwards to correct toe in/out if you want your tires to last.
Hope this makes sense to you.
If you have a 40,000 mile tire on a car with no camber and one with camber they will both last the same amount of miles. One will just wear out on the inside and one in the middle. but both will last 40,000 miles
if the car with camber ALSO has the toe out of spec they will also wear on the inside but at a much faster rate due to the tires not being pointed in the direction they are trying to go.
So no you dont need a camber kit to lower your car. yes you do need an alignment afterwards to correct toe in/out if you want your tires to last.
Hope this makes sense to you.
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Becky T
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03-04-2011 09:20 AM