tag0617

About a week ago, I heard some popping in turns, figured it was CVs or wheel bearing, no biggie. I would fix on the weekend.

Two days ago, I made a turn in the snow going about 5 MPH, and the car wouldn't go into gear after that.

I put in the clutch, switch gears nothing, no reverse either.

In each gear when I let out the clutch it makes a noise liek things aren't meshing up. But each gear some different, 1st is subtle, second has a lot for noise, while third and fourth are also different noises. Reverse actually sounds like the noise it makes when you are in reverse, that high whine noise.

Even stranger, when I left out the clutch in first the speedometer goes up to 10-15 mph, in 2nd it goes up to mid 20s, third around 30 and so on.

Any ideas? Or should I just scrap it? It's killing me with each new thing going wrong.

Background, clutch is 3 years old and never been a problem, both half axles replace 15 months again. Drivers' side wheel bearing is a year old. Sway bar is new with new bushings etc.

andyz

Did you look under the car? Sounds like you BROKE your CV joint.

poorman212

X2...if you were having the issue you described. Then this.

tag0617

Under car, nothing looks out of place, although there's 5 inches of snow, so it ain't easy to check. I will crawl under it in a few minutes and see. I thought that as well, just the other strange things had me second guessing.

tag0617

All right, I think I have found the issue. lol. Boots are actually still in good shape, BUT I can grab the axle on the passenger side near the wheel and move it easily. That can't be good . Driver's side is solid.

Which brings me to this, passenger side is one from Advance Auto Parts and driver's side is one from NAPA. You infer what you want from that info.

Question is this, I am thinking axle is bad and wheel bearing is out with all that play. What do you think?

andyz

It can be ruined inside even if the boots are good. Can you turn the axle over by hand or just wiggle it around.

Experts help me, BUT...Wheel bearing is connected to the steering knuckle and suspension components. So just forget about the axle and just try to wiggle the wheel **up and down side to side and in and out**, you should be able to detect any large issues.

To check the axle turn the car off and put it in gear and try to *roll* the wheel forward.

poorman212

CV shaft for sure...at least Advance should have a lifetime warranty-Not wanting to start a debate about cv shafts-

As far as the bearing-best to get it up in the air-with support of course-and check it.

tag0617

It will roll in gear, just ask the tow truck guy. lol. I can move the axle 360 degrees, but will check to see if it twists. Will also have to got car in air to play with wheel. Gonna clea off a patch of dry pavement and jack her up.

Question, and it is a dumb one, but I haven't dealt with this too much. If one side goes out (the joint) then neither axle will engage or go?

tag0617

OK, wheel does not move left right up down in out any more that the driver's side does. And driver's side has a year old hub on it.

And yeah I can twist the axle as well as move it.

andyz

That's the way a differential works. It provides slip so that when you are going around a turn, the inside tire can rotate independently of the outside tire because the track lengths are different.

In a regular FWD or RWD drive car, if one wheel (axle in this case) is broken free, the way a differential is made, it will push all the energy to that side.

In some 4WD plow trucks and farm equipment or monster trucks, they have a limited slip-or locking rear differential. So they can get going with one wheel on ice and one wheel on pavement.

Got to be the axle. Just replace it and double check your suspension for any looseness.
Like I said, it can *certainly* be bad inside and the boots are fine. Dirt and moisture can penetrate the rubber/metal seal made with the CV boot clamps. The boots make axles lost a LOT longer, but sometimes stuff gets in there anyway and contaminates the grease and dirt wears the bearings and rust seizes things. EVentually it's just *messed* and will break off if you keep driving.

fin781

put your car on a lift and put it in gear, check the axle out before you purchase one, may be deeper.

tag0617

It was the axle, but on the good side the hub is passable for now. Got credit for warrantied old axle (old being March of 2010). New upper control arms had backed out the bolts from the pivot arms, only thing holding those in was the tight nature of the wheel well. Yikes. Control arm is only 5 months old. Guy at Advance showed me new control arm, it has a different bolt and nut set-up. Bolt is now somewhat fluted, old style was not. So they gave me fluted bolts and changed them in the parking lot. So all is well until the next thing happens.

Thanks everyone.

andyz

Not to thread jack, but do you need to change suspension components in pairs? My upper control arm ball joint boot is ripped.

What about spring or shocks? Pairs? All 4?
Rear Control arm bushing?

fin781

yes