Asteck23

Would a K20 be a good swap for a 94-97 Accord or is a H22 still a better swap choice?

gosu08

there has been a thread about this before and i think the answer for it was that the h22 is better because of price and the power difference between the two isnt worth the extra 4k money.

urbanlegend21

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Asteck23 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would a K20 be a good swap for a 94-97 Accord or is a H22 still a better swap choice? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Unless a K20A(*) Type R falls into your lap, I would still tend to go with the H22A as the swap of choice.

If one of those very cheap K24A2 falls into your lap (USDM 200 HP), then maybe you could think about that...but only if you are prepared for the fitment issues and motor mounts, including finding a way to get the six speed manual under your car.

The most economical choice is still going to be the H22A, since it's basically a plug-in solution when compared to all the K motor 200 HP alternatives.

rival12

Yeah modification to make the K20A/K20A-R fit is quite a few bucks. Plus trying to wire that, and then make it work, then spending 5K+ on the engine, i mean if you got lots of time, money, and you're patient.

However, you could probably turbo the h22, with the same money for the k20 swap. And get way more power for less, and less headache.

HondaccordH22aJdm

H22a ftw! i mean. what type s have u seen that can pull away from an h22a accord. sorry but over here i pwn type s. *and no there not stock.

well to be serious, motor mounts and everything is kinda expansive still since its a newer thing. but h22a is pretty reasonable. mounts, motor. couple g's

rival12

i'm not saying that the H22A has less power, i walk the RSX day and night. I have 15% tread on my all season crap tires. and i'm using the stock 1 1/4 exhaust.

The H22 is something i have no regrets about it, i managed to get one motor out, next motor in, wired and running in 5 days, show me a K20 that is that easily done. (and running no codes) and to see the look on the guys face, your 5000$ car beat my brand new RSX

H22 All the way

I'm just saying if you have the dough, you could H22A+Turbo for the same amount as the K20A-R

Azizi Iskandar

hello...i'm new member

GhostAccord

lol.... It's not hard to tell that your new when you bump a 6 year old thread just to say hello!... Welcome aboard!

arkangel2487

Lol yea cheers!!

arkangel2487

But hey since it's already been bumped lets throw some ideas around cus I've been pondering over what motor I'm gonna build in my cd7. I've settled on a k cus for one I've heard the k24/20 hybrid is a beast and I can ge the short block for 140 and head for about 6. It's also a newer more advanced motor and I don't plan on getting rid of my accord.....ever. So I might as well update and keep up with the times. Anywho, I've poked around on google and have seen the swap done but no in depth write ups. Now what I've gathered is that the axles and mounts you can get from hasport but only works with the k24 tranny. The ecus have been stand alone units and the harness had to be fabbed some way (don't know why though). Throttle cable from an rsx and I seen havin to get the pedal being talked about. I don't currently have pwr stering or ac so not worried about that but just in case there are some interested prospects please fill us in on what would be needed. As for clutch and fuel lines it's easier just to get custom ones made. Oh and shift cables for the tranny. Dont know what specific model or year they should come from though. And an intermediate shaft from an rsx. I believe that covers it but if I missed something fill us in. Also if there is a wider range of vehicles to get parts from other than the ones I've noted let us know. I eventually wanna get into tranny specifics cus I'd like to use the si part but I want the basics first perlease

v4lu3s

its one of those jobs that if you have to ask how to do it...its probably WAY over your head.

the transmission is on the driver side, so start with the mounts and getting the K swap in. hasport mounts are $550

the engine harness is COMPLETELY different than the stock one so wiring is a custom job,I think rywire makes an adapter for $330.

then get the custom axles, i think hasport has those for $300 plus shipping.

so right now the mounts, axles and harness have you at $1180.

more in little parts like throttle cable, probably the radiator hose adapter, then do not forget about the fuel pressure regulator and custom setup return line (probably have to have an aftermarket rail for that too), might also need a header and cat, dont forget an intake system, probably a new clutch as well...i bet this easily comes to $1200 or more.

my best guess is if you have the tools and the knowledge to put it together you are looking at about $2500 in parts then the engine and transmission, which can start as cheap as $1200 to as much as $5000 depending on what swap you get....i know the civic K swap I did 5 or 6 years ago was right at $6k with major hook up prices and NO labor costs...

arkangel2487

Well I was more less asking what I needed. And I wasn't born knowing how to do an auto to manual swap either but that's why we have forums like this one where we can ask questions and throw ideas around. I am also aware of the price involed with doing a swap to a car that was never designed to hold a specific motor and tranny and the fact that that motor turns clockwise and is mounted the other way. I just want to know what I would need parts wise and what I can get it off of. I prefer to have as much info as I can get before my car ends up down for months researching and finding parts when I could have done that before hand. But your right custom exhaust from the header to at least the test pipe and custom fuel rail are 2 things I forgot to mention before.

Hektor

is a h22a obd1 better than a h22a obd2 for the 94-95 accords?

GhostAccord

What do you mean by better? It will be older.... Usually keeping to the same OBD is a bonus.

Hektor

Haha your right the OBD1 would be better to keep the wiring harness a breeze.

the H22a obd1 has 200hp w/ 10.6 or 10.8 compression, while the OBD2 h22a has 220hp with 11.1ish compression. but to a check in to it.

arkangel2487

Okayyy so how about that K series swap??? Can we keep the focus of this thread about that. Cus it only takes a few posts to change the direction of a thread

Hektor

My bad.

here is a vid i found in youtube with a swap done.

Hektor

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...SMuJ6giQc&NR=1

the k24/k20a hybrid seems to be the swap for these cars. it doesnt seem hard nor different from doing the swap in a civic. Just gotta have time and money.

arkangel2487

Lol yea I saw that vid on The k20 forum. I guess the main thing is axles, mounts, and harness and I can get all that from hasport. Hybrid racing seems to have a lot of info and parts too. Well I guess it's back to the lab. To go work on my Frankenstein

TouringAccord

I can't really comment on what is needed for the swap into the Accord chassis but...

If you are going to do a K24 block with K20 head, will you be retaining the stock internals of the block or will you be upgrading the pistons/rods? I ask because that can affect which block you'll want to get. If you are planning on keeping the stock internals the K24A1/2 (CRV/TSX) pistons will clear with a K20A head while the K24A4/8 (Accord) pistons will not.

The K24A1 has lower compression pistons and no oil squirters, the K24A2 has higher compression pistons and oil squirters. The K24A4/8 has lower compression pistons as well but that won't matter if you are going with the K20 head.

If you plan on a built high revving engine then I've read you'll want to upgrade to the K20Z3 (06-11 Si) oil pump. I believe the K24 oil pumps are good to around 7000 or 7500 rpm and the K20A2 (RSX-S) oil pump is good to around 8500 rpm.

The K24 engines have steel oil pans, if you'd like you can swap to the aluminum K20A2 oil pan but you will need longer oil pan bolts to mount it and you'll also need the K20A2 flywheel cover iirc.

You'll need to use the K24 chain/guides and chain cover.

That's about all I can think of right now.

I picked up an 04 Si earlier this year and just the other day I picked up a complete (disassembled) K24A1 block. I'll be doing a K24/K20 swap on my EP3.

If I were doing a K swap into an Accord chassis I would either go with a complete K24A2 swap or do a K24/K20 for the torque they would have over the complete K20 swaps.

arkangel2487

Thank you soooo much that's exactly the kind of Info I'm looking for. The blocks a k24a4 but I was planning on upgrading internals And will def remember that when selecting pistons. I do plan on building a high revving n/a engine for now so the oil pump info is def helpful. Now with the oil pan bolts having to be longer, does that mean the aluminum pan is deeper and will hold a lil more oil? I will prob entertain the idea of a dry sump system. Still poking around on that. Yea I was originally going to semi build an h22 but I ran a cross the accord and said f*#k it I'm gonna go for it. Junk hard only wanted 140 for the short block with everything on it and someone was obviously thinking the same thing cus the motor was already pulled with half the head bolts removed. Now here's another question if I may, I remember a few years back a magazine doing a spread on a k24 accord swap for it being an inexpensive alternative to the k20. I can't remember witch one cus I didn't think I was ever gonna entertain the swap lol. Wish I had paid more attention now. I think it might have been sport compact car or turbo (before modified took over or bought it out or whatever)

TouringAccord

when selecting pistons, many manufacturers make pistons for the K24 block K20 head combo.

oh, something I forgot to mention about the oil pump. On the K24A1 block, you don't have to modify anything to use a K20A2 oil pimp. On the K24A2 block, there is some cutting you need to do on the K20A2 oil pump for it to mate to the block. I'm not sure if the K20A2 oil pump fits the K24A4/8 blocks without modification or not. Below are a couple links to posts where someone showed how they modified a K20A2 oil pump to mate to the K24A2 block.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showpo...6&postcount=23
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showpo...7&postcount=24

I don't know if the K20A2 oil pan is any larger but the reason you need longer bolts is because of the thickness of the material at the edge of the oil pan where it mounts to the block. You would just need to remove the two small studs on the bottom of the block and then get the same size bolts that the K20A2 uses.

$140 for the block is a good deal, I paid $220 for mine.

As for the article about the K24 swapped Accord, I can't say that I recall seeing it.

Hektor

some good info and ideas

arkangel2487

Ok so I've been researching just the motor build portion of this after the info I got from touring accord cus there's a lot more than just poppin a head on. So far the only k24 block with the oil squirters is the a2. Also the k20a2 pumps do cavitate above 8700 (prob why they're governed at 8600). And apparently there's a problem or more of a concern when modifying the valve train with stiffer springs, and that is not enough lubrication to the cam caps at high rpm. Hytech has a solution to both Problems and here's the link to the article I found. http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t...s/viewall.html
Now I feel like this is gonna bite me in the *** but it looks like the k20a2 and k24a2 are the only two heads that have v-tech on both cams but the tsx is the only one with the drive by wire so you still need the rsx type s throttle body
Also the crank out of the rdx turbo is the beffiest of the 2.4 cranks.

TouringAccord

^^ interesting read... My build is going to be in the mid-range so I'm not sure how much of that I would be interested in doing but good to know none the less.

As for oil pumps, I believe the K20Z3 (06+ Si) oil pump cavitates around 9100rpm, a slight jump up from the K20A2 oil pump. I've read that the cavities inside the K20Z3 oil pump have been smoothed out better than in the K20A2 oil pump. For my build, the stock K20Z3 oil pump should be more than sufficient.

I'm fairly certain the K20Z3 has VTEC on both the intake and exhaust cams. The K20Z3 is also drive-by-wire.