TouringAccord

glad everything went smoothly for you

it wouldn't hurt anything if you did. I haven't though.

skhell

In what intervals should they be re-tensioned?

98v6AccordDude

i need to do this on my 98 v6. i was looking at the whole belt mechanism and damn does it look complicated.

TouringAccord

I'm not familiar with the V6 so I wouldn't know

professorman

What seals would be good to replace with the timing belt change? My 94 Accord have 189k miles on my engine, and I do not want any oil leaks in the future.

So far on the list:
-Cam shaft seal
-crank seal
-balancer seal

I have been searching everywhere and can not find anything. No where else even mention the balancer seal. Is there any other seal I can replace for good measure?

slawaguznow

- There is a different TDC alignmnet procedure for F22B1 when compared to other engines. The manual says you need to allign the marks with the engine block surface. For others - with the back cover.
- Is there just one locked position for the rear balancer shaft?
- For the step 37- it's hard to remove the bolt without removing the crankshaft pulley.

Thanks for a nice write-up.

skhell

When I did mine last week, I found it realy had several locked positions.

TouringAccord

I'd have to double check my manual to see what it says about the F22B2 but I do recall it being slightly different, but nothing major. When doing this on a different engine besides the F22B1 that I used for the writeup you should be able to tell where the marks on the camshaft gear need to align too. Also, it would be the head surface if anything, not the block surface

some say they've had problems, I haven't though. When I've done this I've always stuck the bolt or screw driver in before removing the balance shaft belt. I believe someone also posted pictures before of the alignment marks on the rear balance shaft but I don't know where that is now.

I'm not sure why, but if it is I don't see why you couldn't remove the pulley first and then remove the bolt. Were you trying to remove that bolt from below or were you trying to get it from above? If you were going from above you shouldn't have a problem getting it out with the pulley still on there.

your welcome

slawaguznow

Thanks TouringAccord. I did try to remove the bolt from the bottom.
My car now makes a short squeaking noise on the start-ups as well as when I turn the AC on. Does it mean that the alternator belt is too loose? When you talked about 1/2 inch deflection how hard should the belt be pulled? Do I need a special tool?
I replaced everything yesterday and it took me about 11hrs. My advice is to use high quality tools when removing the crankshaft bolt. My first cheap 1/2 extension twisted off one of the ends. The same applies to the breaker bar. It's a good idea to use a jack stand to support the extension-breaker bar connection. Getting that bolt moving made me the happiest person

TouringAccord

no problem

the belt is either too loose or worn (if it wasn't replaced). You can try tightening it a bit more or try putting some belt dressing on it (never used the stuff but I've seen others say they have used it and it worked).

The manual shows a special tool but you don't need it. 1/2" deflection with moderate pressure by just pushing on it at the mid point of the belt where it is the longest between two pulleys, if that makes sense.

skhell

Hi!

Some days passed since I changed the timing belt, and after all, the engine does make some more noise, specially when its hot. Its a whining noise, but not too loud. When its hot, on idle, also makes some weird noise, something like a subtle rattle, and its just sometimes... it seems something knocking on something. I replaced the tensors and water pump, but I did not used Honda parts.

I followed all the procedure to tension the belts, could they have gotten too tight, or could this noise be the "normal" noise of the tensors and/or water pump?

I also noticed that the balancer belt tensioner spring seemed not to be doing anything, it seemed it wasn't making any force on the balancer. Is this normal on this spring?

On a few weeks I will take off the covers to see if everything is normal, maybe replace that spring by a new one and re-tension the belts.

Also, I was thinking on putting the engine working with out the cover to see if I find out from where is the noise. Obviously this will heat up the engine. Is there any problem if re-tension the belt with a hot engine? On the Honda repair manual, they don't refer to that.

If it continues to make the same noise, I guess it is the noise from the tensors/water pump...

TouringAccord

the balancer belt tensioner spring doesn't put a lot of force on the belt if I recall correctly. Thats where some people make the mistake of pushing on the belt to give it more tension and end up over tightening the belt.

if you'd like, you could remove the side covers and start the engine. Take a look around and see if you can locate where the rattle and whine is coming from. It's not going to hurt the engine to be started without the accessory belts on, just make sure you put the valve cover back on and the crankshaft pulley.

as for the tensioning the belts with the engine hot, I don't know.

skhell

I think I will buy a mechanics stethoscope so I can pinpoint the exact location of the noise with the cover removed, something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mechanics-Gara...3A1|240%3A1318

Now that I recall, I might have touched the balancer tensioner by hand a bit(just a bit)... but I am not sure I will have to re tension it and see what happens.

I will go to Honda and see how much is it for the spring, but I suppose its pretty cheap, if so, I might replace it, after all its just replace it before re tension the spring.

TouringAccord

that spring should only be about $3USD

skhell

Before I take the covers to see if everything is ok, I am going to re tension it with out removing the covers, just loosening the adjusting nut 2/3 - 1 turn, rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise three teeth on the camshaft pulley and then tighten the adjusting nut.

These 3 teeth must me exact? Can I do it approximately with out removing the cylinder head cover?

TouringAccord

I'd take the valve cover off to make sure you are rotating the correct amount of teeth, otherwise I wouldn't be confident that I have it tensioned correctly.

skhell

Ok,

I will do it tomorrow in some parking lot. I don't want to wait about 2 weeks until I go to my dad's home and do it on his garage...

I just hope the weather its ok, since on Saturday I will watch some stages of the WRC here on Portugal :D and I want to re-tension the belts before I go.

skhell

Hi!

I have just re tensioned the belts, I guess it got ok... let's wait and see. It was quite a fast job, about 40 minutes with no stresses

TouringAccord

good to hear, hopefully that takes care of your issue

accord_raffi

I just wanted to make sure that all accord crank pulley bolts are 50mm because I saw one that was 45mm. I have a 1996 if that matters.

TouringAccord

you mean the tool used to remove the crank pulley bolt? your 96 uses the same tool I have listed.

that is used in more Honda's and Acura's than just the Accord.

accord_raffi

OK thanks! I figured it was pretty universal amongst Honda's but you can never be too sure

TouringAccord

yep, no problem

understood, can't blame you there

ken9

After reading all that and still confuse. Might be a little different so I thought this might help too---> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIzcttirhts

Bird333

This same guy had a video for changing the timing belt on a 6th gen Accord too.

Edit: Here it is.

http://www.youtube.com/v/EmasxgJdXJ8

How do you embed the video like above?