TouringAccord

lol, I stopped when he says to put your own marks to line things up. They marked everything for you, use them.

He also says it's imperative that you use an air gun on the crank bolt otherwise you get it off and a torque bar wont do you any good. hmm... wonder how I got it off without air tools then.

c14asaki

Can someone please tell me exactly where the maintenance hole (step 30) is located? Thanks

Step 30
Remove the sealing bolt from the maintenance hole and insert something long and skinny to hold the rear balance shaft pulley in place and aligned. The manual calls for a 6 x 100 mm bolt. A P1 Phillips head screwdriver should work; we used a long 6mm bolt though. You’ll be able to feel when the bolt or screwdriver is in place, the balance shaft won’t rotate when you try to rotate it.

TouringAccord

it's located on the same side of the engine the timing belt is on.

when you are in the wheel well looking at the crank pulley area, look up and to the right. In that general area on the back side of the engine is where you'll find it. Use the picture to see what it looks like.

c14asaki

Thank you. Now my next stupid question. How important is it that I perform Step 30? Is it possible to keep everything aligned by NOT do step 30?

TouringAccord

haha, not a stupid question...

I guess there are some alignment marks on the gear and that. So you could use those instead, I don't know about them or even look for them when I did this as I was following the procedure outlined in the service manual.

Since there has been a good amount of questions about the alignment marks of the rear balancer shaft, and I can't find the pictures someone posted before, I will try to take a picture of mine to show the alignment marks. I will try to do that this weekend.

c14asaki

Thanks Touringaccord. In the picutre on page 1 of this thread Step 14, Which gear goes with the balancer shaft? Could I not just put some marks on the gear before I remove the belt? Still a little confused by Step 30.

TouringAccord

if you use marks of your own you wont know if it was off to begin with due to the previous person doing some work incorrectly.

in the picture, the gear to the furthest right is the rear balance shaft and the gear to the furthest left is the front balance shaft.

on the rear balance shaft gear face it almost looks like there is a dimple on it in about the 4-5 o'clock position and a mark or the engine that it may line up with. I'm not completely sure on this but from looking at that picture it looks like that could be alignment marks. Like I said though, I will look at my engine and take a picture of it if there are alignment mark on these for the rear balance shaft.

c14asaki

I found the maintenance hole. So exactly how do I align the rear balancer shaft? Do I stick a screwdriver in the hole and turn the shaft until the screwdrive goes all the way in?

Will this procedure work for a F22B2 engine? All the pictures look very similar to so I am assuming it will work?

TouringAccord

If it is set to TDC for cylinder 1 then the screw driver or bolt should slide right in there.

yes, this write-up will work on a F22B2 as well.

c14asaki

Thanks again TouringAccord. It all makes sense to me now. I will be picking up all my parts this weekend. Should have it back together in a couple hours (I like to work slow - less mistakes).

When it's all done, I will have probably saved 200 to 300 bucks.

Very much appreciated.

Regards
c14asaki

TouringAccord

no problem, glad I can help

yep, thats the whole reason I did this write-up. To help people save money

HostileCB7

Great info.

professorman

I replaced my timing belt on Saturday, but now, my car does not have much low end power. The power kicks in at about 3k RPM and above. I am guessing that the timing is off by on tooth. I had a really hard time finding the rear balance shaft maintenance hole using the drill bit. I found several positions where it would stop the shaft from turning. The engine runs smoothly, but it just doesnt have much low end power.

Heat

Nice video.

As far as the parts go, just to toss out a price, www.handa-accessories.com has this kit for the 6th generation:

I've not checked Majestic Honda's prices.

And just wanted to give another mention of the new place of the .PDF file:

How To Replace Timing Belt - Timing Balancer Belt - Water Pump.pdf

I like how the guy in the video says that if you are good with tools, you can do the job in an hour to an hour and a half while at the dealer they said the book time was five hours.

Since my ‘99 is still under 100,000 miles I’ve got some time to look things over / think about it before I tackle this job.

TouringAccord

1hr to 1.5hrs? thats pretty fast. The first time you do this dont expect it to go anywhere near that fast. even if you are good with tools, you're first time isn't going to be that fast. I like to take my time and make sure I do it right. And when I time how long it takes for me to do a job, I count prep time and cleanup. When I did a crank seal on my friends B18C5 Civic hatch I probably did that in 1.5hrs or a bit less but that wasn't the first time I've done it either.

it's really not that bad. if you take your time, have the required tools and information, you shouldn't have much trouble. I've said it before, the crank pulley bolt is the hardest part of the whole thing, the rest is just time consuming.

Heat

The guy on the video said to heat up the bolt with an acetylene torch (not a propane torch), until it is glowing slightly red. Then use an air powered impact wrench with as few extensions as possible. After he heated it up, he hooked up the impact wrench and got the bolt off in just a few seconds. He spent a decent amount of time showing how to do this bolt, maybe one minute out of the 12 minute video.

One can't follow the video by itself and do the job, but the video combined with the writeup makes the job doable. And of course, if others here want to make a video of themselves changing the timing belt and then hosting it on Youtube, I'd be more than happy to watch it. Heck, I'll even give the video a 5-star rating.

5hift_shop

exactly what im looking for. very helpful. thanks.

TouringAccord

you're welcome

Leadberry

You don't necessarily need air tools, nor do you need an oxyacetylene torch. Pop your 1/2" drive socket on there, add a couple feet of extensions, pop on a breaker bar, slide your cheater pipe over the breaker bar, and start hopping on the pipe. I about crapped myself when I thought I broke the bolt, but it turns out it was just rusted to the harmonic balancer pretty well.

Worked for me. :]

mmm635

Nice writeup!

I am new to the board and just acquired a 2002 Accord Ex with 124K and on the original WP/TB/pulleys as far as I can tell. Not sure what the engine model designation is, but I guess it is the 6th generation Accord. I am a DIY'er in the BMW world as all of my cars have been this mark and most of my wrenching experience is there. That said, this procedure looks pretty straight forward as long as one is prepared with proper tools. Is there anything else that would be recommended besides the Timing belt package at Handa while I am already in there? The car has new plug wires and rotor cap, radiator, PS reservoir. I have the plugs, trans fluid, and oil change already on the list. I have read some posts on valve adjustment and was confused. I found this quite odd since i thought the VTEC adjusts the valves electronically and no need for manual adjustment. Valve adjustment is not a big deal, but I was just wondering.

Leadberry

On VTEC engines, there are multiple intake rockers that have their own cam lobes that have different shapes. Under normal conditions, the rockers all move independent of each other, and the main lobes/rockers actuate the valves. When VTEC engages, the intake rockers are all hydraulically locked together, and the more agressive VTEC lobes now actuate the intake valves. VTEC doesn't adjust your valve lash, it virtually swaps in a more aggressive cam at higher RPMs. You still have to adjust for valve lash as with any other car.

mmm635

Interesting. The newer BMW's don't require any adjustment of the valves which is what I have to do on the older M30 motors. The BMW Vanos is similar to the VTEC system, but I guess the valve adjustment is an independent issue relative to specific motor design.

Leadberry

Honda's VTEC, BMW's Vanos, Mitsubishi's MIVEC, GM's Ecotec, Toyota's VVT-i, Volvo's CVVT, Subaru's AVLS, Porsche's VarioCam Plus, Nissan's VVL, Ford's VCT, it's all the same concept, simply different implementations.

raj49

How do you remove these seals? Crank seal? I got everything else. I cant seem to pry it out and I dont want to scratch anything.

raj49

I tore up half the seal trying to get it off still no-go. Im thinkin Im going to take off the oil pump cover and get it off from behind. I dont know how you get the seal off otherwise.