newhondagirl

i took my dizzy apart today and found the seal is hard as a rock so I ordered the inner seal for $3.50 for f22b2: (http://www.bestpartsonline.com/servl...l-Honda/Detail) or for f22b1, f23a1(http://www.bestpartsonline.com/servl...omotive/Detail) ...has anyone ever replaced the bushing thats behind the seal?? mine seems to be a little worn (a lot of play room when shaft is in) the bearing seems to be ok so im not going to replace it right now... some of the wires that were at the bottom getting saturated in hot oil had very brittle insulation on them so i cleaned them off which left alot of exposed wire but none broken so i layered on the liquid tape...also i wanted to add that, after reading that some were having problems with the three screws, i used my dremel tool to make a slit so i could get them out with a regular (flat-head) sdrewdriver...made it really easy to get them out...i also read somewhere that if you remove the screws on the metal plate where the bearing is, you should use locktite when re-assembling

AdamsAutoAdvice

Great thread! I am doing this job currently on my Accord.

Some might find that the heater hose under the distributor is swollen, because of all the oil leaking onto it. I would recommend replacing that hose if this is the case. This is something that can be overlooked if you are not thinking about it or are inexperienced.

mgold

After reviewing the procedure for setting the distributor at TDC before removal, I realized I didn't do it properly. My car won't start.

What is the best way to make sure it is at TDC? Feeling for when the cylinder is at the top of the stroke?

Lost Again

Pull the upper cover on the tb, set the cam to TDC....pull the dist cap, rotor should be pointing to #1 cyl wire....if 180* off, guess what.

holmesnmanny

When you put the distributor into the camshaft, it should just pop in real easy. If, for some reason, you have to jam it in there, it's going in the wrong way. You really have to jam it in there to get it wrong.

mgold

So I should just turn the crankshaft to TDC with the Distributor on? If it is off, just flip it around?

That would be hard to do! I was extremely careful to line it up with the camshaft, when installing it.

professorman

I have a very small amount of oil in my distributor when I took it off today, maybe about 1/4 teaspoon. The distributor cap was last changed 50k miles ago. Should I go ahead an change the internal oil seal? Does yours stay perfectly dry all the time?

fsujunkie

Be careful when removing and extra careful with the sensors..... I did this and now I have a CEL for the TDC sensor in the dizzy

accordache

this task wasn't a headache, thanks for the posts, i replaced the o ring and the internal seal and my oil leaking problem stopped.

kidcool1977

LOL, did you put everything back in correctly?.

When I first did mine I mistakenly put in some of the screws in the wrong location and my CEL was going crazy, took the dizzy apart and made sure everything was tidy which cleared up the cell.

Another thing to consider, the distributor it self is VERY fragile so make sure when you're performing surgery that you do the job correctly. I say this because I had the wrong seal when I first did my procedure but eventually I got the right part. Anyway I proceeded to take my dizzy apart (2nd time now) and everything was in perfect order. I re install distributor back on my car and sure enough the unit simply went kaput, just sharing my experience.

1991EX

A lot of good info here, but if your seals are bad and it is due to age or a loose bearing, you need to change the bearing while it is apart or the seals will have a much shorter life.

emfman

I did this on my car and my distributor must have been replaced with something that is not OEM. Mine came apart similar to the write up but looked slightly different.

My only addition to the write up is mark the orientation of the piece that locks into the camshaft and is held in place by a pin and a c clip. You can install this piece 180 out of phase also and get the no start problem. (I think)

My biggest problem during this install was the new internal seal. The one that came out had more depth to it and I had to whack the crap out of the new one to get it to go in. Also it didn't look very good at all when I was done. I couldn't get it flush and it got kind of lumpy after all the whacks. I think this may be due to my distributor not being OEM and me buying a OEM part. Who knows.

kidcool1977

You're referring to the notch of the distributor, in my current f22b1 engine it only goes in one way. I recall when I had the LX model accord you can install it 180 degrees out of sync, What I usually did was take off the cap of the distributor and made sure the rotor was on cylinder one which would indicate it is in correctly.

You likely got the wrong seal, from my experience the F22B2 dizzy and F22B1 dizzy have different internal seals. Since I have not owned any accords besides the two distributors mentioned I am not sure what size seals they take.

professorman

Cool. I just did this to my 94 Accord LX. Thanks for the writeup! I have a few tips to share with you guys.

I ordered the seal from ebay. It was $11.41. Remember the part number: NOK-BH3888(E)
I got the o-ring at my local dealership. Another savings tip, I ordered a "tune up" kit for my Accord from a dealership on ebay. Worked out to be $70 for wires, distributor cap, and rotor. This is way cheaper than everywhere else.

When disconnecting the 2 wire connections, it needs to be removed from the bracket first, before it can be unclipped. I struggled to get it uncliped, and finally took it of the bracket, and it came apart easily after that.

MAKE SURE to make a scribe in addition to marker line for the timing mark before removing the distributor. I used a paint pen, but also made a scribe line with a small screw driver as well. In the end, when I was putting it back together, the paint had rubbed off the distributor side, luckily, I had the etched line.

I scribe the rotor button in relation to the black plastic protector as well, that way, I know which way the rotor should be turned when I am putting it back together. If you have a scribe line for the rotor button, you can look on the other side with the notch, you will see that it has a stock scribe line on one side of it. I scribed the distributor again in relation to this line. So, in the end, I used 3 scribe lines, and these allowed me to put everything back together properly.

I used Carb cleaner to clean up the shaft where it meets the inner seal. There was some gunk build up on mine, and I did not want these deposits to wear away at my new seal. The old seal cracked up when I was taking it out. I am happy that I got it changed.

djkurious

Me and my cousin did the internal seal to both of our cars and couldn't get neither car to start afterwards. Double-checked everything and made sure we put everything back as we took it out and nothing. Even took pictures of every piece we took and and put back: nothing. Ended up buying 2 distributors :O

Arthas

And here I am thinking the only gasket that needs to be replaced is the o ring on the tip haha.

professorman

My mechanic replaced the O-ring in mine about 50k miles ago and not the internal seal. I wish I knew about it then as well. When I did it last night, the o ring was still good, but I went ahead and changed it again anyway. $2 peace of mind.

kidcool1977

Yup, This happened to me.

From the information I have gathered doing research is your distributor is VERY FRAGILE and many mechanics I've spoken to have told me to just get a new unit because if you dismantle them, there is a slim chance something will short out. So remember boys and girls BE VERY CAREFUL and do the job right the first time.

stnwag0n

if it cranks but doesnt start, you may have the installed the distributor blade into the camshaft the wrong way. you can put it in 180degrees the wrong way, and it will all sort of fit, it will give spark, but it will not start. i've done this before, and re-installing the distributor the correct way fixed the problem.

Arthas

If its leaking in between the distributor and the dizzy cap its definitely this seal right? I checked it out today and it had a small leak there along with the O ring that goes in the head.


Im going to do the O ring tomorrow but ill put this fix off for a while till I keep reading some more.

kidcool1977

When you take your dizzy cap and you notice oil residue inside the Dizzy than it is in fact the seal inside the unit.

There really isn't anything hard about it because you simply unscrew all of the internals until you reach the NOK-SEAL. Pop that ****er out install new one and then make sure you put everything back as it was prior and re-install on your car.

kidcool1977

It's doubtful, I had the same issues DJkurios posted, car cranked with each turn of the key. I even removed my dizzy cap and MADE SURE it was on cylinder one and NOTHING!

Also some honda engine are designed that you cannot put your dizzy 180 degrees out of sync and if it does go in the repairer forced it to go in, which damages the notch.

sa2ms7on

Did you ever figure it out 2BFI? Mine is the same way

sa2ms7on

Did you ever figure it out 2BFI? mine is the same way.

Luis0n

I try to find the correct oil seal of my distribution, i have a d16 and i have a doubt, these are the correct dimensions of the oil seal of the distribution??:

Size: 12.5mm (Shaft) x 22.5mm (Bore) x 5mm (Width)

or not? or Just the accord?