bseriescrxsi

These are only guidelines and do not substitute for mechanical know how.Please bare with me as i will add info within a few days when i get time.

Cars that swap applies to: 90-93 honda accord(this can be used as a base reference for 94-97 also, but components may be located in different place)

Motor Going in: JDM F22b DOHC non-vtec(out of jdm prelude early/mid 90's)

** Please note it is also recommended to do full maintence when swapping a motor, to include: Timing w tensioner, Water Pump, head and valve cover gaskets,oil pan gasket, all belts and hoses, Spark Plugs and Wires, Cap and Rotor, etc.**


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Tools Used:
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S.A.E wrench set 1/4" - 1 1/2"
Metric Wrench set 8mm - 19mm
Vortex socket set 1/4" and 3/8" drive (10mm - 19mm, 5/32 - 3/4)
Standard impact socket set (Metric and SAE)
Impact Gun, Air Wrench
Pry Bar
Screw Drivers(phillips and flat)
Gloves
zip lock bags

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Equipment used
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(1) 2 Ton Engine Hoist
(2) 2 Ton Floor Jacks
(4) 2 Ton Jack stands
(2) 2 Ton Tow Straps
(1) 150 P.S.I Air Compressor

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Stuff to Buy for Swap:
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Oil(4 quarts)
Trans Fluid(4 quarts)
Antifreeze(2 Gallons)
Honda Power Steering Fluid
Brake Fluid(for manual swap)
PCV Valve
Hose clamps(assorted sizes)
Gaskets(Head,Intake Mani,Exaust Mani,Valve Cover,Downpipe,oil pan)
Belts(Timing(with tensionor),P/S,A/C(alternator))
Water Pump
All Hoses(upper/lower rad hoses,heater core,bypass hose)
thermostat and gasket
fuel filter
Spark Plugs(NGK)
Set of spark plug wires
Distributor Cap and Rotor


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Prepping the new motor:
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while you have the new motor on the ground or lift you should change the following:
Timing Belt and tensionor(s)
Water Pump
Head Gasket
Valve Cover Gasket
Alternator belt(with or without AC)
P/S Belt

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Pre Swap Prep:
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- Park the car on level ground and jack the car up one side at a time...once jacked up insert a jack stand under each side

- Make sure the car is stable on the stands when bringing the jacks down

- Take the front wheels off and move them aside out of your way

- Take The hood completely off by removing the (4) 10mm screws that attach it to the hinges

- Remove Axle Nuts By unbending the locking clip and using an impact gun or torque wrench to remove

- To get the axles out with ease you will need to take the struts out also(also disconnect brake line from strut)

- Remove and Inspect Axles for damage (place out of way, i place in trunk wrapped in trash bags)

- Disconnect the shift linkage cable on the transmission(do this by removing the bolts holding the plate in place, remove the cotter
pin and wedge the linkage apart, be careful not to damage the linkage in any way)

- Remove 2 bolts holding the downpipe to the back of the engine block

- Drain Fluids from car

- Remove trans lines and lower hose from the radiator after drained

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At this point you should be done pre prep work under the car and are ready to move to the top to start disconnecting parts/wires
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To Avoid losing nuts and bolts label zip lock bags accordingly and put all parts in them


- Remove Radiator by disconnecting the Top Hose on the radiator side and disconnect power wires to the fans

- Remove Headers by removing 2 bolts holding the heat shield on, you should now see multiple bolts holding it onto the head
remove these and also remove the 3 nuts connecting the header to the downpipe.

- Remove Battery(place battery in safe place....DO NOT SIT BATTERY ON GROUND)
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Drivers side prep:
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- Loosen adjusting bolts on P/S pump and alternator and remove belts

- Remove power steering pump(to do so unbolt it from the brackets and disconnect the lines running into it)(secure top line in a safe place)

- Remove Alternator(to do so unbolt from bracket, remove green wiring clip, and remove the nut holding the single wire onto it)

**Discharging A/C without a catch kit is illegal, have A/C professionally discharged or buy a catch kit**

- Discharge A/C and remove A/C Compressor( to do so remove 2 nuts and 2 bolts holding it to the bracket and disconnect the lines)

- Remove all the brackets that were holding the P/s pump,Alternator, and A/c Compressor in place(clearance and you will need to swap them over)

- Disconnect the Ground wire going from the top of the p/s bracket to the engine to the motor mount

- Disconnect the 3 grey electrical clips next to the motor mount(secure them on top of the motor)

- Disconnect the vacuum line for the cruise control

- Disconnect the Rear motor mount vacuum line by locating the black vauum module on the firewall and tracing the line to the back
of the intake manifold

- Loosen the service bolt to depressurize the fuel system and remove the vacuum hose on the bottom of the fuel pressure regulator

- Disconnect the vacuum line running to the very back of the manifold(secure hose out of the way)

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Passenger side prep:
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- Remove A/c line you disconnected from compressor(store in a safe place)

- Remove battery tray

- Open fuse panel and remove both of the single wires running into the bottom

- Remove (+) wire from starter

- Remove(-) wire from the plate on the bottom of the tranmission(removie ground going into side of chasis)(now pull the
wiring out and store it in a safe place)

**If Wires Show Signs Of Damage Replace Them**

- Remove your aftermarket intake or stock air intake system

- Up near the fuse panel, disconnect and unclip wiring harness from chasis(will also need to unbolt it from chasis)(secure on top of engine)

- Remove your MAP Sensor(make a vacuum diagram of where all lines went before you disconnect them)

- Remove the Black canister located under the MAP sensor(disconnect lines running into it and slide it up)

- Remove the throttle cable and overdrive cable from the throttle body(secure throttle cable in a safe place, secure overdrive cable on top of the engine)

- Remove fuel line from fuel filter and fuel rail(store in a safe place in a ziplock bag)

- Remove 2 small hoses coming off the back of the transmission

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Check Both sides to make sure the engine is now clear to lift out and no wires/lines are still connected to the chasis
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**Due to the many ways this can be done i am not going into details about how exactly to life and pivot the engine to get it out**

- Position engine lift over engine and use straps/chains to hoist motor

- Jack hoist up until you get tension on the straps/chains

- Remove the front motor mount and put the bone shaped mount in a safe place

- Remove the bolt from the rear motor mount

- Remove the bolt holding the driver side motor mount to the chasis

- Remove bolt holding pass side motor mount to chasis and the motor should now be free from the mounts

- Drop pass side slightly and disconnect the mount from the trans and wiggle the mount out(might take a few trys)

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At this point you will now be able to shift the motor and lift it out (2-4 people recommended)
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Prepping the new motor to go in(note in this write up we will be using the old intake manifold on the new engine)
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- For convenience sit both motors on the ground decently close to each other

- Check all electrical connectors and use electrical connector cleaner to ensure they are all clean and in good repair

- Remove intake manifold from both engines(note this will require removing the wiring harness from the engines as well)

- Remove new I/M gasket from box and install onto the f22b engine

- Take the f22a intake manifold and line it up and bolt it up to the f22b engine

- While accessable replace the upper plenum gasket on the I/M

- The Shift Selector arm you removed the shift linkage from will have to be swapped from the f22a trans to the f22b trans thats goin in the car

- The Top Radiator hose housing will need to be switched over from the f22a to the f22b as the f22b doesnt have the second fan switch

- The Brackets from the P/s pump, alternator,will be need on this engine(leave them off until engine goes back in)(use the A/C
compressor bracket that came with the f22b motor)

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At this point your engine should be ready to go back into the car
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Engine Bay Prep
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At this time any cleaning/degreasing you want to do to the engine bay should be done

- There were 2 lines running off the back of the old trans to two metal hoses, you will notice the new trans does not have these
you must take a piece of hose and without 100% kinking it connect those 2 hoses to each other(they are part of the power steering system)

- If your old motor was blown take this time to flush out your heater core and to remove any old core hoses still attached

- If your putting on an aftermarket intake system take this time to remove the stock air box system from the pass side

- Check and if neccesary replace A/C Condensor


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Modifications needed
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- The A/C compressor lines will have to be retrofitted to allow for the different position it sits in

- The stock P/S belt will not fit on this due to the length....you will need to get a 44" one as opposed to a 42" one

1slo22cl

Wow, nice writeup! But for some reason, I can't remember what car the DOHC F22 came out of....

alkoholikwun

jdm f22b dohc non vtec - jdm prelude (early/mid 1990 years)

bseriescrxsi

sry still adding that info

bseriescrxsi

bump for sticky

GhostAccord

It's a bonus that the JDM DOHC F22B is OBD1. Seems that it made this swap much less complicated.

Nice write up Did you happen to take any pictures to go along with it? I can read myself. I fully understood your well written procedures. but it seems as though a large % of H-T members are more of the picture guided type of reader. If you know what I mean...lol

TouringAccord

no sticky, but added to the FAQ

bseriescrxsi

sigh fair enough...lol....and no unfortuneatly we took a few pics but not many....i will work on some sort of labeling system through the pics i have once i get them from my camera

gianinline

This is definetelly going to help a lot of folks to come, good stuff!

kadidle

is this swap for an automatic trans ?

kadidle

is there a better write up anywhere than this for an auto trans setup?

bseriescrxsi

what do you need to know as this as based on an auto trans set up and is step by step...pm me with any additional questions ill be glad to answer them

whltng

I am doing this swap now, only taking the F22B out of a prelude and putting a F22A in place while I have the F22B Rebuilt, as I want to use the car and I had just rebuilt the F22A and then after a few months of light use, smashed it into the back of a another car when the Brakes failed. The accord, being a '92 model was a real work of love, but not worth the cost of the body work involved. I bought the '95 Prelude for &150.00 and it is a mess, but everything works, A/C included, I will keep pictures as this goes in and document the problems associated with the swap. Maybe we might find some synergy here as it is a very similar swap, just the other way around.

RVD9431

what about motor mounts? Didnt see you mention if the F22B bolts right in trans and all, and is the F22A 5 speed trans usable with the B?

brianreese83

f22b5 lower end only into 93 accord should drop right in and fit correct?

not wanting performance per se, just my car back on the road.

beaterproject

I am thinking about doing this swap in my 94 accord but i have an f22b2 sohc motor. Would there be any major differences? Would i have to change anything with the ecu or wiring?

Sakamoto

Hi everyone im in desperate need of help and information. My car is a honda accord 1992 Lx I purchased the car and the previous owner did an engine swap to an F22B JDM motor. My problem is the 02 sensor was never put on. The mechanic I took the car to is confused because the 1992 accord o2 sensor wont fit onto the loose wire to attach the o2 sensor he says he believes the wire will fit the 94-97 accord o2 sensor is this correct? The F22B will fit a accord 94-97 02 sensor? If not please tell me what o2 sensor I need to buy if my engine is a F22B JDM and my car and computer is accord 1992 Lx. This is the main question will the computer read the 94-97 accord o2 sensor if installed? Because the computer on my car is a 1992. Or do we need to buy some type of adapter to get this o2 sensor put on correctly? Please tell me details because im not very savvy with engines or cars in general. God bless anyone who can help me ASAP. Thank you.