Was replacing studs on my Accord 1999 using the grinding method. Since I didn't find a writeup explaining the process for this specific model, decided to write one.
DISCLAIMER: This method I used is not the "proper" way and may compromise the integrity of your knuckle and studs. The recommended way is removing the hub assembly out of the knuckle and replacing the bearing, which requires a 12ton press. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY CONSEQUENCES OF USING THIS WRITE UP, INCLUDING IF YOU FOLLOW MY DIRECTIONS AND DAMAGE YOUR WHEEL BEARING, KNUCKLE OR STUD BEYOND REPAIR
17 mm socket
19 mm deep socket
grinder or a dremel or a drill with a dremel bit
14 mm wrench or anything else that can be put on the stud and work as a spacer
screwdriver (sometimes - impact driver)
piece of a wire (coat hanger works just fine )
nut that would fit the stud, but has an open end unlike Honda's nuts
1. Put the car on a jack stand and remove the wheel
2. Unbolt two 17mm bolts (one in the top, one in the bottom) on the caliper bracket - make sure you are unscrewing the right bolts, you want ones without a rubber boot. You don't have to take the caliper apart or unbolt the brake line; also, you normally would not need to press in the pads. Suspend it out of the way on the strut or the upper control arm on the wire.
3. Unscrew the two bolts holding the rotor. You might need an impact driver for this, but mine were broken anyways. Take off the rotor. You should see something like this.
4. Here is why you can't simply push out the stud - the hub stands in the way and there are no openings like on some other cars.
5. Put your gear to neutral (press the brake pedal just enough to release the lever - otherwise you will have to deal with pressing in the pads). Spin the hub and position the broken stud at the very top. Put something in the gap between the hub and the knuckle right next to the stud; it should fit snugly. We need this so that when we start hammering the stud, the hub will press against the knuckle rather than the bearing (which I guess can damage it). I used a 19mm socket.
6. Hummer on the end of the stud, just enough to see some gap between the head of the stud and the hub. Shouldn't be hard - mine were severely rusted, but came off fairly easy.
7. Cut the head of the stud with a hacksaw (or any other power tool if you have it).
8. Cut in half the thin (front-facing) part of dust shield behind the hub. Bend it out of the way. Mine was rusted, so didn't have to cut anything.
9. Turn the hub so that the cut stud faces the opening in the dust shield. Push the stud out.
10. The protruding part of the stud on the right should give you an idea of how much we need to grind off.
11. You might be tempted to hammer the new stud in right away. This will simply "fold down" the threads on the stud.
12. Cut or grind down a side of the head of the new stud to get something like this.
13. Grind off a part of the hub - insert the new stud and see where the head ends this will give you a idea about the length of the grinding. Also, look at the head of the stud -this will tell you the width. Overall, the groove that we need is not that big and can be made in 5 minutes or so. The most important part is to lower the ridge where the dust shield used to run.
14. Put in the new stud. It should go in easily, but a GENTLE punch of the hammer is ok also -if you need to punch hard, enlarge the groove or you will end up with the damaged thread stud - see step 11.
15. Get in the car and put it to Park or 2nd gear.
16. Take time to align the ridges on the head of the stud with the grooves in the hub; if you mess up - the stud will spin in hub, and you will have to replace the whole thing. Put a big washer or a wrench on the stud and the nut with an open end. Tightening the nut should pull the stud into the hub. Keep doing until the head of the stud is flush with the hub. For the final turns, you might want to use a torque wrench set at 80 ft/lbs, otherwise you might damage the stud again.
17. Repeat for the other studs
18. Bend back the dust shield. Put the rotor and its screws back on. Put the caliper bracket on; put some locking compound on its screws and tighten to 80 ft/lbs. Put back the wheel and tighten nuts to 80 ft/lbs.