HELP!! Trying to remove rotors on 1996 Accord
04-23-2007, 06:09 PM
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HELP!! Trying to remove rotors on 1996 Accord
I have a 1996 Acord and the front rotors need to be changed desparately! I took the rims off, removed the 4 bolts from the hub to the rotor, remove the caliper and caliper mount but the hub infront of the rotors will not come off. Does the 36mm axle nut have to come off first or is the hub just pressed on or both. Some help would be appreciated.
Thanks to all who respond.
Thanks to all who respond.
04-23-2007, 07:05 PM
#2
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Re: HELP!! Trying to remove rotors on 1996 Accord (jpopvriens)
you need to take off the axel nut and use a slide hammer or similar tool to pull off the rotor/hub assembly. Most people will tell you that its pressed in, which is wrong, the hub just rusts to the rotor and bearing most of the time, making it difficult to get off, but that doesnt make it pressed.
04-23-2007, 07:17 PM
#3
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Re: HELP!! Trying to remove rotors on 1996 Accord (jpopvriens)
K first question. Did you look at the 1997 Accord brake tutorial yet? if you didn't consult it.
The golden colored bolt near the lug bolts, dont take them out yet. The 4 bolts u need to take out is in the back. You have to take out the 36mm spindle nut bolt. Read the tutoriial. Go to Accord FAQ's and scroll down to brakes and click on the first link.
I'm in the process of changing the brakes too. A few addition to the guide, I wish he could of said, remove the CV from the wheel bearing. <---- IMPORTANT. You have to remove the top and bottom ball joint in order to seperate them. If you don't do this, and you tried to remove it with the CV in place still, you will have a HIGH change of stripping the bolts. ALSO, for me, i had to take out the whole steering knuckle, easier and less strain on the joints. Once thats out, you can remove the wheel bearing assembly from the steering knuckle.
I suggest you do the same thing as we did. It may be more work, but u won't be stressed out if you constanly held a 20-30 lbs in your hand.
I think i'm going to make a new guide. His is helpful, but i like to refine it.
The golden colored bolt near the lug bolts, dont take them out yet. The 4 bolts u need to take out is in the back. You have to take out the 36mm spindle nut bolt. Read the tutoriial. Go to Accord FAQ's and scroll down to brakes and click on the first link.
I'm in the process of changing the brakes too. A few addition to the guide, I wish he could of said, remove the CV from the wheel bearing. <---- IMPORTANT. You have to remove the top and bottom ball joint in order to seperate them. If you don't do this, and you tried to remove it with the CV in place still, you will have a HIGH change of stripping the bolts. ALSO, for me, i had to take out the whole steering knuckle, easier and less strain on the joints. Once thats out, you can remove the wheel bearing assembly from the steering knuckle.
I suggest you do the same thing as we did. It may be more work, but u won't be stressed out if you constanly held a 20-30 lbs in your hand.
I think i'm going to make a new guide. His is helpful, but i like to refine it.
04-23-2007, 08:35 PM
#4
Yeah, refer to the brake tutorial in the Accord FAQs at the stickies, up top.
Read that tutorial, in addition to this Wagner brake tutorial:
http://www.brakespecialty.com/...l.pdf
Read that tutorial, in addition to this Wagner brake tutorial:
http://www.brakespecialty.com/...l.pdf
04-23-2007, 08:43 PM
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Re: (tech8)
save yourself some time and just take both hub assemblies out and have someone press the hub off and put the new rotor on and press the hub back in...like someone said before they hub assembly is NOT pressed together its just a really tight fit and after time it gets rusted badly and makes it even worse! so therefore you have to have someone press it apart due to rust and a tight fit...but save yourself some time and take the hub assemblies somewhere with a press and let them do it...in most cases you wont be able to get the hub apart by yourself..if you happen to a lot of times the whole bearing and hub and rotor will come with it and you will just have to take that somewhere and get it pressed apart anyways...but do what you want..you might get lucky! 
04-24-2007, 03:50 AM
#6
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Re: HELP!! Trying to remove rotors on 1996 Accord (JDM_DC4_Fanatic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_DC4_Fanatic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you need to take off the axel nut and use a slide hammer or similar tool to pull off the rotor/hub assembly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Be aware that this way separates the hub from the bearing which pulls the inner race off the bearing exposing the insides of the bearing. If any dirt gets in there it'll mess up the bearing when you start driving on it again and you'll have to do the whole job again. It's recommended you replace the bearing anytime the bearing is opened like this. Some have not and been fine, other who haven't had to go back in and replace the bearing. IMO, it's better to not risk it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_DC4_Fanatic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Most people will tell you that its pressed in, which is wrong, the hub just rusts to the rotor and bearing most of the time, making it difficult to get off, but that doesnt make it pressed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
sorta... most do say the rotor is pressed on, which is wrong. Some also say the bearing is pressed into the knuckle, which is also wrong. The only two parts that are pressed together is the bearing and the hub, the hub is pressed into the bearing. A lot of times the bearing gets so rusted into the knuckle, people just assume the bearing is pressed into that as well but it's not. It's a close fit but the bearing is just bolted to the knuckle by the four bolts on the back. You remove those four bolts and the bearing/rotor/hub should come away from the knuckle. Now like I said, most of the time it won't happen like this and you have to either hammer it out or have it pressed out. Which ever works for you is fine, just remember to sand down and grease that bore where the bearing sits to help prevent it from rusting in there again for the next time.
Be aware that this way separates the hub from the bearing which pulls the inner race off the bearing exposing the insides of the bearing. If any dirt gets in there it'll mess up the bearing when you start driving on it again and you'll have to do the whole job again. It's recommended you replace the bearing anytime the bearing is opened like this. Some have not and been fine, other who haven't had to go back in and replace the bearing. IMO, it's better to not risk it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_DC4_Fanatic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Most people will tell you that its pressed in, which is wrong, the hub just rusts to the rotor and bearing most of the time, making it difficult to get off, but that doesnt make it pressed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
sorta... most do say the rotor is pressed on, which is wrong. Some also say the bearing is pressed into the knuckle, which is also wrong. The only two parts that are pressed together is the bearing and the hub, the hub is pressed into the bearing. A lot of times the bearing gets so rusted into the knuckle, people just assume the bearing is pressed into that as well but it's not. It's a close fit but the bearing is just bolted to the knuckle by the four bolts on the back. You remove those four bolts and the bearing/rotor/hub should come away from the knuckle. Now like I said, most of the time it won't happen like this and you have to either hammer it out or have it pressed out. Which ever works for you is fine, just remember to sand down and grease that bore where the bearing sits to help prevent it from rusting in there again for the next time.
04-24-2007, 03:53 AM
#7
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Re: HELP!! Trying to remove rotors on 1996 Accord (The-Kid)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The-Kid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I suggest you do the same thing as we did. It may be more work, but u won't be stressed out if you constanly held a 20-30 lbs in your hand. </TD></TR></TABLE>
why would you have to hold 20-30 lbs in you hand? I assume you are referring to holding the knuckle in hand while removing the four bolts on the back? If so... once you've popped the lower balljoint free and removed the axle from the hub, just place the lower balljoint back into the lca and work from there. Let the weight of the knuckle continue to rest on the lca while you work.
why would you have to hold 20-30 lbs in you hand? I assume you are referring to holding the knuckle in hand while removing the four bolts on the back? If so... once you've popped the lower balljoint free and removed the axle from the hub, just place the lower balljoint back into the lca and work from there. Let the weight of the knuckle continue to rest on the lca while you work.
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04-24-2007, 02:43 PM
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Re: HELP!! Trying to remove rotors on 1996 Accord (TouringAccord)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
why would you have to hold 20-30 lbs in you hand? I assume you are referring to holding the knuckle in hand while removing the four bolts on the back? If so... once you've popped the lower balljoint free and removed the axle from the hub, just place the lower balljoint back into the lca and work from there. Let the weight of the knuckle continue to rest on the lca while you work.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just said mine face down on the ground had my friend hold it tight and i busted the 4 bolts loose like that..its fairly simple..and also like touringaccord said you can just let it rest in the lca and do it that way...both ways are simple those bolts arent that tight at all
why would you have to hold 20-30 lbs in you hand? I assume you are referring to holding the knuckle in hand while removing the four bolts on the back? If so... once you've popped the lower balljoint free and removed the axle from the hub, just place the lower balljoint back into the lca and work from there. Let the weight of the knuckle continue to rest on the lca while you work.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just said mine face down on the ground had my friend hold it tight and i busted the 4 bolts loose like that..its fairly simple..and also like touringaccord said you can just let it rest in the lca and do it that way...both ways are simple those bolts arent that tight at all
04-25-2007, 03:26 PM
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WOW! Thanks for all the help!! I am new to the forum so I guess I need to learn where to look first before I ask. I will let you know how it goes.
04-25-2007, 05:49 PM
#10
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Re: (tech8)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tech8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.brakespecialty.com/...l.pdf</TD></TR></TABLE>
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