Lloyd Xmas

Ok Folks. I am needing help installing a cooling fan toggle switch on my 90 Honda Accord. The fan is new, the fan relay, fuse and fan switch, have been replaced and the fan still does not kick on. Yes, I am waiting long enough for the etmp to rise and it to come on, etc etc. The passenger side fan comes on with the a/c, however the driver side fan is the problem.

Im not looking to investigate more on the problem, I cant figure it out, and Im sick of buying new parts with the problem not being fixed. Since summer is nearly here, this toggle switch needs to happen.

If anyone can assist me with wiring switch to then fan, positive and negative, etc I will be grateful. If anyone has a diagram, that would be even better.

Thanks.

D16SiHatch

well its just that, positive and negative. run the power to the battery and run the negative wire into the car and to a switch that grounds the fan when you turn the switch on.

BuiltCivic99

if ur talking about hardwiring a fan.....with a switch on the dash...u shuldnt need more than 5 bucks and 20 mins of work lol ...follow what the last guy said.

Lloyd Xmas

Looks like I put this in the wrong forum. Thanks for the replys. The toggle that I have has three prongs, one positive, negative and another for the indicator light. Shouldnt a relay come into play since the amps are high on the fan?

dpetro1

you need to correct the problem at hand. sounds to me like you have a broken wire somewhere so adding switch might not even fix your problem. grab a multimeter and check continuity in the wiring. since you have replaced all the sensors/relays etc it seems obvious that its a wiring problem.

a switch is just a band-aid not a solution

Lloyd Xmas

I understand that its just a bandaid...Im ok with that. I do not have a multimeter and have no idea how to check for continuity.

dpetro1

multimeters can be had for as little as $5 from harbor freight
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90899

and are very easy to use
http://www.ladyada.net/learn/multimeter/continuity.html

my point is that if you add a switch into a system with a broken wire then your switch might not even work. it will be trying to turn on an already broken circuit

slomofo

iTrader: (1)

If a bandaid is what you want, then why not simplify the bandaid?

Unplug your fan switch, get a staple (from any office stapler), and jump the connector.

All done.

Everytime the key is on, the fan is on.

/band-aid.

Lloyd Xmas

I started this thread in Feb..Im sure the problem starts here. I would love to fix the problem. Maybe someone following this current thread could give some advice on the previous one. https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/what-part-cooling-system-related-2735105/

D16SiHatch

which would work if the fan switch was at fault. however i think op has determined that not to be the case.

slomofo

iTrader: (1)

All you need is a good fan and a good relay to do this method.

D16SiHatch

well sure. i agree that at this point i would just bypass the stock stuff and wire up your own relay that utilizes the stock fan switch. wouldn't be difficult at all. friend of mine is having the same problem with his da teg. i'll probably suggest to him to do the same thing.

BuiltCivic99

yes ...3 prongs.. one is the ground ...it should say Earth then the other is the power wire...and the last is the LED ...powerwire goes into ur fan wiring..splice it and ground...well i think ground is self explanitory

GhostAccord

I see that you replaced the relay and switch. Have you tried replacing the ECT sensors for the fan?

Lloyd Xmas

I dont think so. Using this picture I found on this site, its the green one, correct?

GhostAccord

There are two fan sensors (switches) The one in green is Fan switch A the one in black is fan switch B. Then the one in yellow is the ECT sensor for the Temp Gauge.

dpetro1

EDIT: I see the '90 accord different than your typical civc/integra (sorry not as familiar with accords)

looks like the switch on the thermostat housing is for the fan timer and the switch on the water outlet pipe is the thermo switch.

the pic the OP posted looks like an h22 so in that pic i think its

green: 2-wire ECT sensor for ecu
yellow: 1-wire sensor to dash gauge
black: 2-wire fan switch

and they all work independently of each other