The more trouble you get from your car, the more you get to research and know it better.
I had my F22A6 rebuilt due to cracked block. The whole thing was pulled out, repaired and rebuilt. It's now perfectly working back in its place.
Now, the minute I pickup it from the mechanics I noticed that the car now vibrates a lot more than before, you "feel" the engine's presence like you didn't use to.
When I went back some days later we noticed that the front engine mount ( the bone-shaped one ) was finished, the rubber parts were all gone.
So, I ordered one and replaced it. That could be the cause but it had to be replaced to confirm if that was the case.
The vibration matter did improve a bit but it is still far from what it was before.
Now, by accident I was going throught the Wikipedia's text on the CB7s when I noticed these lines ...
"Also noteworthy, all Accords equipped with automatic transmissions used an electronically controlled rear engine mount to reduce low frequency noise and vibration. The mount contained 2 fluid filled chambers separated by a computer controlled valve. At low engine speeds, fluid is routed through the valve damping vibration. Above 850 rpm, fluid is routed around the valve making the engine mount stiffer."
... and I thought; "This could really be related to what's going on with my car."
I had no idea there was such thing in there as an hydraulic engine mount.
Now, I have a few questions that need answer about this.
1 - If the mount works differently according to as fast the engine is reving, it must be connected to something else ... how's that made ? Electrical connectors ? Vaccum ? What sort of connection must I look for ?
2 - Also, is it in any chance possible that fluid had been accidentally emptied causing the mount to work defectively ?
What else must I look at ? Where else could I look at to sort out this vibration matter ?
If I remember correctly the ecu has an output to control the trans mount, and the engine mount has a vacuum line coming off it, whats in between, and where it is I am unsure. If it didn't get hooked back up properly I could see it causing extra vibrations.
Enter in your car information then find "Engine Mount".
I had my intake manifold pulled when I got to mine when doing my swap. My brother did his from above and I would have to think he got it from the intake hose side. It's not going to be too easy but it should be possible. You'll need to use a jack with a block in between to protect the oil pan to raise the engine up so that you can get it out or you might need to jack up the back by where it meets with the tranny.
Indeed was the mount in bad shape. Had it replaced for a new one with new valve included, the difference is enormous. There's so much less vibration it's unbelievable, especially while the engine is warming up.
Give it another few weeks and I'll have the side mounts replaced as well, I still hear the ocasional "squeak" while going on a bend but not the thumps" anymore. Guess I'm on the right path.
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