niedejb

Well after 75 miles on the new engine (with stock ECU), I've had no check engine light from the EGR block I did before I installed the engine.

Heres how I did it.

1st the EGR system is all supplied by cyl #4



You can see in this pic how it the gases get to the EGR valve.



The valve itself (you'll need a new gasket after pulling this off).



Once open the valve feeds all cyl with exhaust gas.



To block the system I used a piece of old head gasket but anything thin and metal will work (aluminum can cut up would also work). You can see the gasket plate is a two piece metal gasket.



To seal everything up, I put Permatex Copper Seal.



You can see it here on the opening that seals the blocking plate to the upper portion of the EGR dist system.



Here it is installed.



You can see since this is downstream from all the EGR valves and solenoids, the system has no way of knowing the exhaust gases arent making it into the engine.

Enjoy.

GZERO

Really Good Post

I have a question, does the EGR gases still get to flow on the intake on the left part? meaning, does it still heats the IM? or did you block that on the head?

niedejb

It still gets to the valve.

I'm more worried about crap getting into my brand new engine than the manifold heat.

If you block it at the head the gases wont lift the valve (I think) and youll get a CEL. I havnt tried that, but my feeling is it wont work.

The ECU can detect the solenoid not working and the actual lift on the EGR valve.

Vac ought to raise the valve, but all these EGR CEL posts say that cleaning these ports solved the problems. If thats the case, the vacuum alone couldnt pic up the valve all the way. Either that or the build up inside the valve kept it from raising all the way.

patastinky

why would one do this? disabling egr what are the advantage of doing so ?

niedejb

Edit:

BTW, removing the entire manifold would be required for blocking where you are describing (pain in the ***).

The way I posted can all be done with the intake manifold in place.

niedejb

Three reasons.

1) These passages clog over time and could cause a CEL.

2) These gases dilute your intake charge and rob you of power (minimal but still a loss)

3) Tuning air to fuel ratios would be a pain in the *** if this valve is diluting some of the time and not the others. The exaust gasses can increase/decrease the likelyhood of detonation when boosting.

accordfreak

Can't you block off all the holes and not throw a cell since you're going to be using the AEM system?

i need to block off everything and take out that ugly egr valve to use my fuel setup.... i've unplugged the whole EGR system... so far no cell with the OBD I

niedejb

Yes.

I'm running the stock ECU for the break in and didnt want the contamination until I get the EMS in and tuned.

carolinaACCORD

Excellent post!

i wonder how hard it would be to make a heat sink type setup to bracket on to the
egr valve to dissipate the heat?

JimBlake

I don't think it would be necessary. Exhaust has to keep flowing to supply heat to the manilold. Since the exhaust is blocked, it cools down to match the manifold temperature anyway.

You'd be better off spending time & effort on something that looks more like a charge cooler. Or a CAI.

carolinaACCORD

good point, i guess there would be a compromise between the temperatures.
so it wouldnt be that big of a factor.

JDM_CD7

iTrader: (1)

Good Post..... may have to check that with my engine before i do the smog

iam7head

neidejb, what happen to your old motor? still gonna boost it?

niedejb

Dont understand the question....the built engine is in a undergoing the 500 mile break in before boosting. The old engine is sitting on my work bench in the garage. Thinking about building it for my hatchback.

melissah

Hey I bought a 91 Accord SE with a blown engine. I dropped a 94 F22B2 in it with the head from the 91. Here are some of the problems I'm having. Engine light is on, S light flashes, wont shift into overdrive, engine revs up & down. Codes 12 & 17 flash meaning EGR & speed sensor problems. I've changed the Speed sensor, still same problem. I believe my problems are electrical but I'm not sure.

Question is where do I start? Do I change the ECU to a 94? Could it be the TCU? I've put way more money into this than I wanted already, when should I stop?

TouringAccord

that is a question that is completely unrelated to this thread.

Please create a new thread to discuss your problem(s). Thanks

JDM_CD7

iTrader: (1)

Beautiful write up

Power Rev Racing

Nice write up !!!

Mafia_Insurance

Can you rehost the pictures? I only see red x's

bdmlilburn

can i block of the egr on my 96 accord ex f22b1?

obdll and i will need to get emissions this summer. i can always unclog it for emissions

the pics are broken links but im guessing all you gotta do a fab a block off plate and use some sealer to seal it down over where the egr valve would be. would it be best to just make a block off plate and put the egr vavle back on with the plate underneath it?

after doing this what do you do with the vacuum hoses going to the egr valve?

d1n0

help, why is it i cant see the pictures?

5hift_shop

great post, thanks

bsivoljr

This would create a mean pressure I would think in the head. And also make your engine so dirty and contaminated inside. This is cheap. What you should really be doing is installing an oil catch can to catch the contaminants instead of blocking them and forcing it to stay in the head. Dumb IMO

GhostAccord

This wouldn't cause any pressure difference in the head. The exhaust gas recirculation system works off vacuum from the intake. As the EGR valve opens, the vacuum created by the intake manifold pulls exhaust gases into the intake system. Through a small opening in the left exhaust port on the #4 cylinder.

An oil catch can is used in line with the PCV system to catch any oil and carbon from getting into the intake manifold not exhaust gases.


However I still think that this mod will throw an insufficient exhaust gas flow CEL after a while. You may not get the EGR lift CEL but insufficient flow should still be detected.

TexasRedCD5

thanks for the info, although im still confused on whether this is a safe mod or not... Im sick of the problems created by this system and wanted to just do a full delete however lack of funds are preventing this. If i could just do a basic block off plate with no serious adverse effects i would be happy. Sorry for digging up a dinosaur of a thread but it intrested me.