NZXTInerTia

Here's a quick DIY write up that I decided to throw together when I replaced the O-rings for my VTEC plunger, solenoid, and Dizzy. This is a common area for oil to leak out of on the F Series motors especially due to the amount of high pressure oil that is concentrated in this area. All of the O-Rings I removed cracked off while removing them so they were definitely due for a replacement.

I removed my EGR solenoid to do this, but it IS NOT NECESSARY. I just have large hands and no tiny sockets (my 1/4 craftsman ratched crapped out)

First remove the VTEC solenoid and unplug the connector. There are three 10mm bolts that will have to be removed, and underneath there is a figure 8 shaped O-Ring. This is the first O-Ring that you will see out of the three to be replaced.



Bolts off:



Solenoid Removed:



This piece is tiny and easy to loose, so set it in a safe spot till later.



Then you will need to remove the VTEC plunger assembly, this is the mechanism that actually lets the oil flow through the rocking assembly to engage VTEC. There are three 10mm bolts that hold this on, two on top, and one on the bottom. You will also need to remove the oil pressure sensor (which is a 19mm) on the side of the plunger assembly. There is a small orange O-Ring that you will need to replace as well.



Old swelled, baked, and rotted gasket. You can also see some debris that has managed to get past the oil filter in the screen towards the bottom of the gasket. (I later dropped this on the floor and it broke into four pieces )



There is no point to removing something and reinstalling it without a good clean. So whip out your dawn and a tooth brush and get all of the baked on oil/road scum off of it. All clean!



Now install your new gasket, I would suggest smearing a small amount of clean oil around the entirety of the gasket to ensure a proper seal.



Then reinstall the plunger mechanism to the rear of the head, add your new orange O-Ring to the oil pressure sensor and tighten it down. Then make sure you reinstall the small piece you removed from the top of the plunger assembly earlier. Finally add the figure 8 O-Ring to the bottom of the solenoid and tighten everything down. Make sure everything is sound, and plug everything in.

Now onto the Dizzy. This is a lot simpler, just remove, install O-Ring, install distributor. I used a marker to write on the head/top of dizzy to ensure I kept my timing correct when I reinstalled everything. It is held on by three 12mm bolts with washers that you can remove with a deep well socket and an extension.



Then clean around the opening in the head where the opening is for the cam.



Finally you need to break off the old O-Ring, I managed to CUT mine off with a small flat blade screw driver. Install the new O-Ring, align the mark you made previously, reinstall the distributor, and tah dah! No more annoying oil leak.



Any questions feel free to ask!

holmesnmanny

I just replaced all these gaskets on my car about a week ago and what I did was I replaced the one that sits in between the head and the solenoid first. Then put it back on then replaced the one on the inside. Doing it this way helps to minimize the chances of pieces falling out.

NZXTInerTia

I took the long way, mostly because I wanted to clean everything up individually.

sillyboi

nice write up, i just did the distributor o ring last week but unfortunately my car has more oil leak mysteries.

holmesnmanny

Ya, that's cool I can understand that. Mine was almost spotless when I took mine off compared to yours, no offense. I didn't really need to take everything apart to clean it.

95dc2r_line

Just to add a little tip for ur o-ring job on the distributor, u should add a little silonico around the o-ring as well b-4 putting in that will gurenntee to seal the oil from leaking through.

poorman212

Personally the only thing I would put on that o-ring is a light coating of clean oil. But that is just my personal opinion.

Proto-luder

Good write up

NZXTInerTia

None taken! I'm in the processes of cleaning up my motor, slowly but surely. I want to pull the motor this spring and do a full service, its only 217k young so I think she's due.

Exactly, you put a small dab of sealant on the corners of a rocker cover gasket but really that's about it. You wouldn't want any foreign contaminants (excessive sealant) entering the oil stream.

b18velocity

Thanks for posting this!

My fiance's 94 EX has had a pretty nasty oil leak for the past year or so but she's always asked me not to worry about it but thursday the CEL came on and I pulled the code which was 22.. vtec oil pressure switch malfunction. Anyway, that's led me to here after a weekend of screwing around with the car.

Where did you pick up these replacement o-rings or do you have the part #'s by chance? I haven't had a chance to call the parts department at the dealership and they very well may just know what I'm looking for but I'm having trouble sourcing them online so I wanted to be somewhat prepared before calling them tomorrow.

NZXTInerTia

I was going to post the part #'s but I forgot to, woops. I just had my ma who works about a mile from the dealership pick them up to save the drive down there. You can also get them from Majestic Honda (website) and HondaPartsUnlimited (website).

Filter/spool valve gasket:
15825-P0A-015
Solenoid Gasket:
36172-P0A-005
Pressure sensor O-Ring:
91319-PR3-003
Dizzy O-Ring:
30110-PC6-005

b18velocity

Slight correction after doing this process myself following your tutorial.

The vtec oil pressure switch is actually a 22mm, I thought I was going to be able to actually do a job without a single trip to the parts store since you said it was a 19mm and that was the largest deep socket I had but sadly it turned out to be a 22.

Maybe it's year dependent? Either way, thanks again for the awesome writeup.

NZXTInerTia

I've only ever found 8,10,12,13,14,17, and 19mm bolts on my car. I don't have a 19mm socket so I just used a crescent wrench. My bad.

MAD_MIKE

'95 EX 2.2 VTEC, O-ring is leaking so I was going to just replace it with Fel-Pro part. Local ORLY has but they have two listed.

FEL-PRO # 72416 O-Ring Type 25mm ID
FEL-PRO # 72454 O-Ring Type 26.5mm ID

Anyone know which is the correct size? I'll probably call Fel-Pro in the morning before heading out but would be nice to have it confirmed.

jmanuel

mad mike yours is the 26 one ibought that one for my v6 and it said on package its for those 2.1 2.2 2.3 or whatever so ihad to go back and get the 25 mm one which says for v6 on package. you can ask to see both before purchase tho so you could see package info

jmanuel

also you should replace the internal shaft seal while youre in there. very easy and theres a real good video on youtube on how to. bought my seal for 8 on redsautorehab got here in lile 3days and all was good

MAD_MIKE

Called Fel-Pro TEC support(800-325-8886) and they confirmed the two listings and different diameters, they did not know why there are differences.

jmanuel

because the 25mm is for hitachi dizzy. the 26.5mm say 2.2 or something like that on the packaging. igave the 26.5 to my friend with a f22b1 95ex accord and it fit perfectly

Fitz Williams

iTrader: (1)

The 95 F22B1 EX is a Hitachi distributor.

jmanuel

is it? idnt know then i guess hitachi made there distributors a lil diff in size 94-98 cause mine is a 98 v6 and the 26.5 mm oring didnt fit at all but fitted on a 95 ex

free_money

I'm glad I saw this post!! I was looking at the pics and realized I have never noticed this part on my car. So I located it and noticed there was fresh oil on it. I wiped the oil off and cranked my car and when I looked at it again oil was seeping out pretty steady. I went to the stealership and got the gasket and figure 8 o-ring and completed the job and now no leak!! This was not an easy job though to me and required me to move several things out of the way. I attempted to move the egr valve but couldn't get a socket on the back nut and it kept slipping and almost stripped it. Any idea to what sensor is below the oil pressure switch?? Mine was covered in oil and had melted some green plastic.

jmanuel

What year was this done on?
I watched a video of someone do it on a 95 vtec solinoid and they said you had to take off a water outlet housing? Or something and let the coolant drain out.. To be able to reach the farside bolt? Looked like a lot of extra work did anyone have this issue

jmanuel

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GfwNvotdRfw
This is the video

MAD_MIKE

Levi's car is a '94 B1. Same as the video shown('94-'97 VTEC).

Not sure why YT guy did it that way, seems like a PITA. My VTEC solenoid is leaking, need to replace the gaskets, but with a few open end wrenches it's possible to get to the bolts when I did a dry run on it. Just need to move the PCV air feed hose out of the way, and the wire harness bracket for the distributor connectors. But removing the water outlet seems a bit much. The more I watched the video the more I think the poster is a masochist, seems like he makes quite a few things more difficult than they need to be.

jmanuel

Yeah seems like it ha buut idid it the long way wasn't too difficult but I did snap a bolt that hold the vtec to the body.. Thankfully igot it out! Just went to purchase new one for 2$.