TouringAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSR 0NE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are the 98 cl rotors the same size as the accords?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, thats why he re-used his stock caliper and caliper bracket.

You can upgrade to a prelude VTEC or 2 piston Legend caliper but both would require a rotor upgrade as well. See the other brake threads linked in the FAQ for more info on that.

LSR 0NE

I thought they were the same but I needed to ask to be sure, thanks for clearing that for me.

TouringAccord

yep

dawgpilot

What year is the Accord that these pic are of? I want to do this to my 1994 EX Coupe. Will it work with the same parts that you used. Thanks for the info.... this site is great.

JDM_DC4_Fanatic

thats my 92

Dcsports92

This is an awesome writeup my only question is I know theres the issue of rust when it comes to the removal, would they make galvenized bolts for the hub assembly?

I've been debating for awhile whether or not to stay 4 lug and just do the Rotor over hub conversion or go all out 5 lug.

My only issue with the 5 lug is that on the rear brakes on the car the spindle nut can only be tighted half way before you have to stake the crap out of it.

JuNkDoGAccOrD

Hey with the ROH conversion can we also swap in the legend 2-piston caliper ?????

redefsir

great write up....
thanks

Secret Chimp

What's a good way to separate the hub from the knuckle? My steering knuckle has next to no rust compared to the one in the pics, but I've tried twice and I can't get the thing to come out. I've tried banging around the backside with a hammer but I probably just half-killed my bearing seals doing that. Also tried PB Blaster and a torch, etc, no luck.
If I can't do it perhaps I'll just take the whole dang knuckle to a machine shop if they'd take it..

Bird333

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Secret Chimp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What's a good way to separate the hub from the knuckle? My steering knuckle has next to no rust compared to the one in the pics, but I've tried twice and I can't get the thing to come out. I've tried banging around the backside with a hammer but I probably just half-killed my bearing seals doing that. Also tried PB Blaster and a torch, etc, no luck.
If I can't do it perhaps I'll just take the whole dang knuckle to a machine shop if they'd take it..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Get 4 long bolts (60-70mm) and screw them partially into the back of the bearing. Then take a 3 pound hammer (Thor hammer), and alternately bang on them in a criss-cross pattern. Try the hit the bolts straight on because you can/will slightly bend the bolts. It may take you quite awhile to get it out, but eventually you should start to see it move. Good luck!

Secret Chimp

Great idea! I don't have a 3 pound Thor hammer, but I have a gigantic old excavator tooth that weighs at least 8 pounds that should do the trick.

NGUSPEED

Just to make sure ...

- Which one is the Hub?
- Which one is the Bearing?

h22a_black

hub left bearing right

NGUSPEED

That's what I thought. I know sometimes when you ask the dealer for those parts, they are mislabeled. Thanks

h22a_black

np

JDM_DC4_Fanatic

I'm back from the dead

Best way to get the hub out, is to use a slide hammer, and whale on it like theres no tomorrow. I was abel to use a hammer and just smash it out, but I also removed the whole knuckel.

TouringAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JuNkDoGAccOrD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey with the ROH conversion can we also swap in the legend 2-piston caliper ?????</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes

TouringAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_DC4_Fanatic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Best way to get the hub out, is to use a slide hammer, and whale on it like theres no tomorrow. I was abel to use a hammer and just smash it out, but I also removed the whole knuckel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

eh, I wouldn't. It's a good way to separate the hub from the bearing but I wouldn't do it if you are trying to keep the hub and bearing together.

JDM_DC4_Fanatic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

eh, I wouldn't. It's a good way to separate the hub from the bearing but I wouldn't do it if you are trying to keep the hub and bearing together.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I said that going on the assumption that they are doing a ROH conversion, and wouldent need the hub or bearing, as new ones would be put in.

Also, when the bearing is soo rusted that it doesnt come out of the knuckel easily, one way or another it gets ruined. i've seen it time and time again.

However, I do see your point.

TouringAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_DC4_Fanatic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I said that going on the assumption that they are doing a ROH conversion, and wouldent need the hub or bearing, as new ones would be put in.</TD></TR></TABLE>

true, guess with all the recent brake threads I didn't think of it that way

h22a_black

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_DC4_Fanatic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm back from the dead

Best way to get the hub out, is to use a slide hammer, and whale on it like theres no tomorrow. I was abel to use a hammer and just smash it out, but I also removed the whole knuckel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hey im 905 too lol.. u part of TAC?

amazing write up by the way

JDM_DC4_Fanatic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22a_black &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hey im 905 too lol.. u part of TAC?

amazing write up by the way </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm CB7_Stu on TAC. I guess you dont make it out to the commerce or wb meets much?

My 4th gen has come along way since this brake conversion. Does feel good to see soo many people benefiting from it.

NGUSPEED

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_DC4_Fanatic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Parts:
1998 Acura 2.3CL Front Hubs OEM part # - 44600-YS8-A00</TD></TR></TABLE>


Just a head's up ... The correct OEM part # for the 1998 Acura 2.3CL Front Hubs is 44600-SY8-A00.

I also read on a fellow Accord Forum that you can also use the 1998-2002 Honda Accord 4cyl Front Hub as well, & that OEM Part # is 44600-S84-A00. Can someone confirm this?

JDM_DC4_Fanatic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NGUSPEED &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Just a head's up ... The correct OEM part # for the 1998 Acura 2.3CL Front Hubs is 44600-SY8-A00.

I also read on a fellow Accord Forum that you can also use the 1998-2002 Honda Accord 4cyl Front Hub as well, & that OEM Part # is 44600-S84-A00. Can someone confirm this? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the correction. As far as I know, the other bearing wont work. Only the 90-97 accord and 2.3 CL bearing are interchangeable.

nukem384

this is a great how to! one question though....on the part where you basically take out the whole knuckle from the car, how hard is it to take off the knuckle from the driveshaft/axel? does it just slide right off if there is no rust? i've read the how to on how to change your brake pads/rotors, and the guy used a front hub puller to remove just the hub/bearing/rotor, is this tool not necessary because you are taking the entire knuckle out?