PsXtreme

Hello,

I am a new member here and figured I should make an account now that I own a 1996 Honda Accord EX. Currently, I am having an issue with the dash lights not working. I have taken my dash completely apart and checked each lightbulb and none appear to be bad. I also had an issue with the running lights not working, but found a 7.5 fuse to be blown and replaced it. So now the running lights work, but the dash still does not work. I checked the dimmer switch with a volt meter to check continuity and get OL or open circuit. I checked the red/black wire and get no voltage reading off it. So I again, checked all my fuses and the only one I cannot check is the dimmer relay because its got a black plastic cover. I would think if its the blue box above the fuse panel on the drivers side I would get some reading from the volt meter, but I get nothing. Could someone please point me in the right direction? Thanks!

poorman212

No voltage to the RED/BLK wire.....uder hood #32 (15 amp) fuse.....bad light switch...bad wire from the switch to the dimmer.

PsXtreme

I don't see a #32 fuse, all my box has are names like small lights, hazard lights, radio/cigarette, etc. What's this fuse called? I checked all the 15amp fuses and all are good. As for the switch, all my outside lights work using the shifter switch so im not sure it could be the switch, but I'll test it if someone can tell me how.

poorman212

Not sure of the name......my 97 isn't hame right now for me to go look at the label.

PsXtreme

Thanks for the diagram that made it alot easier for me to pin point the fuse you're talking about. That is my small light fuse and that was the one I replaced to make my running lights work. I see one called interior lights(#37) to the right of that fuse which is 7.5a, and thats the only other fuse I could think it might be, but that fuse is good as well. Do you know where I could get a wiring diagram, so I know how to back test and see where the problem begins? I seem to only find ones that do not go to my car. Thank you again for all of your help, I really appreate it. Dash lights have to work for state inspection, otherwise I would just clip a light to the dash and call it a day.

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

<p>Try replacing the dimmer switch.</p><p>And by 'dash lights' which ones do you mean? There's two bulbs at the top of the cluster that illuminate the face of the gauges, then all the bulbs behind the cluster itself. If those two bulbs are out the cluster appears very dim.</p>

PsXtreme

The blk/red wire to the dimmer switch is not giving power to the dimmer switch, otherwise I would just run a jumper from the red wire and black wire and completely bypass the dimmer switch all together. To clarify, I am talking about the lights that illuminate the gauges so you can see your RPM and speed when its dark outside. All the other dash lights work like turn signal, Check engine, SRS, ect.

PsXtreme

UPDATE: I checked the switch on the left side of the steering wheel that controls the headlights, internal lights, ect. because I figured out how to and I am getting voltage from the red/blk and red/green wires so the switch seems fine. Does that mean the next thing to check is the blue box above the fuse panel inside the drivers side of the car or is there something in between?

tech8

I want to get some more info. of what is working and what is not, to try to narrow down the area. Does the lighting work on the following with the headlight switch turned on?

Cruise Control Main Switch
Sunroof Switch
Cigarette Lighter
Heater Control Panel
Hazard Switch
Rear Window Defogger Switch
Glove Box Light.

PsXtreme

None of those lights work that you mention above. I just tried to hook a hot straight to the dimmer switch red/blk wire and the dash light still does not work. So I took my dash apart again for the 4th time to verify once again that my bulbs are not burnt out.

tech8

With your voltmeter's red lead to the Red/Blk wire at the dimmer switch and meter's black lead to body ground (e.g., metal bracket or bolt on car's body); what is the voltage measurement with the headlight switch in ON or PARK position?

Also, does your taillights work with the headlight switch on?

PsXtreme

11.98 volts on the red/blk wire. I must have not turned the headlight switch on when I checked it the first time. Also, my park lights do work. I checked the small light fuse and thats how I got them working, because that fuse was blown before, but it did not fix the dash illumination problem.

tech8

It sounds more like a ground (-) issue instead of a power (+) issue.

At the connector to the dimmer switch, there is a Red wire at terminal no. 2; that is for the ground source (-) that comes from the dimmer switch. The ground (-) first come from G401 through the black wire at terminal no. 3 to the dimmer switch, then through the Red wire.

Take a spare piece of wire and ground terminal no. 2 of the Red wire, then turn on the headlight switch. See if the interior dash lights, etc. work. If it does, it may be due to a faulty dimmer switch.

PsXtreme

Thank you, I will do that and report back.

PsXtreme

I just tried what you suggested and got nothing. I cant seem to get any reading off that red/blk wire anymore. What I did was hook the red/blk wire to the red terminal of my voltage meter and the ground wire I made (basically unscrewed a screw I was using to test this stuff with and hooked a wire on and screwed the screw back in) to the black terminal and the voltage meter reads 0.00. I made sure the headlight switch was in the on position and I even turned the ignition to the on position as well. Still get nothing. I guess there must be a faulty wire or something.

If I knew where those wires come from I would just manually run new wires to the switch, cuz now I am thinking there is something wrong with the wires running to the switch.

tech8

Check that under-hood Fuse No. 32 (15A) is not blown.

Touch the voltmeter's black to a metal bracket or bolt on the car when you take the voltage reading.

PsXtreme

The fuse tests good with a fuse tester. I was using the wire I hooked to the screw to make sure that wire was a good ground to connect to the red wire and I dont get any reading. Electrical work in a car makes me want to rip my hair out. lol Thanks again for your help. No matter what I try I cant seem to get another good reading from that red/blk wire.

tech8

Let's do some more testing.

1. In the photo from this link, it shows a blue harness connector plugged into the under-dash fuse box.

http://www.sparkys-answers.com/wp-co...3/DSC03406.jpg

The blue connector is C602, an 18P connector. At terminal no. 11 is the Blk/Red wire that suppose to feed power (+) to the gauge assembly lights, Cruise Control Main Switch, Sunroof Switch, Cigarette Lighter, etc. when the headlight switch is turned on.

The Red/Blk wire should be at the 3rd terminal (terminal no. 11) counting from the top-right corner of the blue connector. (For reference the Blk/Yel wire (terminal no. 9) is at the top right corner.)

2. You will want to backprobe the Red/Blk wire terminal (no. 11) with the headlight switch turned on to see if there is power. Backprobing is either using a backprobe set or using a thin needle or something and making contact with the metal terminal of the connector without piercing the wire in the back of the still connected connector. Care must be taken to ensure that the wiring does not get damaged. You can use something like a T pin, available at Walmart, etc., and backprobe. I've attached some pics. of the concept of backprobing.

https://honda-tech.com/attachments/h...ver-t-pins.jpg
https://honda-tech.com/attachments/h...-backprobe.jpg

3. Report back your results.

PsXtreme

Do you want me to disconnect the connector attached to the blue box and test or leave it connected? I will do that just in case and report back what I find. Like I said if I knew were the wires to the dimmer switch feed from I would just run new wires and call it a day. I am almost 100% sure the wires are the problem, but I am no electrical genius. I am a certified computer repair guy A+ and Network+. However my dad is the ASE certified technician but he specialized in suspension and brake work. He too hates electrical work so he gets especially frustrated with it. He got me a light I could clip to the dash to try and pass inspection, but I am unsure of how that will go. I am the type that does not want to rig anything. If it is there I want it to work the way it was designed to, because in the long run it only causes more problems if you rig it. So I am hoping to get this fixed today before I go for inspection tomorrow. My dad is going to go with me to argue with the inspector, but if I can get this working correctly that is what my ultimate goal is, because as a computer tech I hate rigging **** to work.

tech8

When you backprobe, leave that connector plugged in.

As mention in my previous post, the Red/Blk wire from that connector feeds power (+) to the gauge assembly lights, Cruise Control Main Switch, Sunroof Switch, Cigarette Lighter, etc. when the headlight switch is turned on.

The ground (-) comes through the dimmer switch (as mentioned in my earlier post).

These tests are trying to check where along the circuit is the issue.

PsXtreme

My dad the ASE certified tech, told me to always back probe so you dont mess up the connection when you hook the switch up, but its kinda got me thinking because none of the other lights like cigarette lighter, cruse control, sunroof switch, ect come on that some fuse may be corroded and thats the problem, but I got a reading so I am confused. Again, I am not a mechanic, I am a computer tech so my thinking is different.

tech8

You do not always have to backprobe to take a reading. In this case, I mentioned to backprobe that blue connector, as there are other wires at that connector where we want the circuits to be complete.

So, if you got a reading, what was the measurement?

PsXtreme

What I meant, was when you asked me to check the voltage of the red/blk wire I got the reading of 11.98 which I had never gotten before. It was always a dead wire. Then you asked me to check it and I got a reading and now when I check it I get nothing. So its got me confused. After I wake up a little bit I will start messing with it again. Which wires did you want me to back probe on the blue box?

tech8

Backprobe the Red/Blk wire there. If there is no power there, then we will move on to test other areas that feed that.

tech8

If your test at C602 (18P Blue connector) shows no power at the Red/Blk wire with the headlight switch in ON or PARK, then test for power at C413 (20P Blue Connector).

C413 is located above the left kick panel, under the dash area. Use the voltmeter’s red lead to backprobe the Red/Blk wire at Connector 413. There should be ~ 12 volts at the Red/Blk wire with the combination light switch turned on (i.e., parking lights or headlights on). Also check for power at the Red/Grn wire at the same connector.