sgull

What the heck is going on here? I got this special tool that you're supposed to be able to fit into the harmonic balancer (crankshaft pulley) to hold it from turning while I try to remove the crankshaft bolt (for '92 2.2L Accord), but the fender well is in the way and prevents being able to insert it into the pulley.

sgull

Okay so I cut about half the width of the hex off with carbide metal blade on reciprocating saw. It fits now. Seems like I can't find a decent solid place under the car here to have the breaker bar positioned against, other than whats pictured here. This sucks. Any helpful suggestions appreciated.

MAD_MIKE

Did you read the timing belt FAQ at the top of the page?

sgull

No I didn't read it until now that you mentioned it. That's if I'm correct that you're referring to the following FAQ page? https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/how-replace-timing-belt-timing-balancer-belt-water-pump-f22b1-1908944/ ?
Step 7 in the step-by-step directions talk about supporting the engine while removing the engine mount, apparently so there can be adequate clearance for the crankshaft pulley holder tool to be inserted. Well now that I've managed anyway to get the holding tool inserted after cutting it as I described, I suppose removing the engine mount won't be necessary? Unless that's the only way I can get one or the other of the steel pipes mentioned in step 10 onto where they need to be? thanks

sgull

I found this on youtube which is probably the method I'll end up trying with the pipes and all.

holmesnmanny

I've never heard of there not being any clearance there. Did you remove the fender guard ? You will need to remove the mount to be able to access the timing covers and to actually do any real work.

djkurious

The problem you are having is because you need longer extensions to clear the fender.

sgull

Not sure what you mean by fender guard. What's in the way there there and blocking clearance for the tool insertion into the pulley (before I cut the tool as I mentioned), shown in the first photo this thread, is what I'd probably call the wheel well or fender well, and no way I will make any attempt to remove that.

sgull

Yes in two pictures there I have the one 4" extension attached, which of course does not extend out far enough to clear the fender. I have another 16" extension I might try in addition to the 4". I don't happen to have a 20". I need to get set up as shown in the pictures step 10 here https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1908944 or probably more like the setup shown in that video, with the jackstand support involved.
Thanks.

djkurious

I have used these along with a jack or jackstand and havent had any issues: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=914182_0_0_

sgull

Good to know. Thank you again.

sgull

I'm unclear about the step of removing the (driver side) engine mount. It is apparent to me there are two reasons for this step. One is to access the timing belt covers and for better general working access in that area, and the other is so that I can get my breaker bar and pipe extension positioned for proper leverage to be able to loosen the crank bolt? I'm unclear about when I have the engine supported as described in step 7 here https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1908944 with the block of wood and jack under the oil pan, when/how the engine gets lowered. I suppose once I begin lowering the jack (with the engine mount bolt removed), the engine will begin to go lower on that side, but if the engine is connected to the tranny/drivetain is there enough flexibility somewhere so nothing gets busted/damaged doing this?

djkurious

Yes nothing will get busted or broken by doing this and you are right, it is to get more access to changing the components and making it easier to navigate. When I usually do timing belts, I always start on that crank bolt first before removing anything except for the splash guard. That way I will know how to proceed if the crank bolt is stubborn. I also have a 5ft cheater bar, so far so good!

sgull

Okay I'm set up now with the engine supported with a block of wood and floor jack under the oil pan, the next step to remove the driver side engine mount so I can lower the engine on that side. So, never having done this, I took a few pictures of the engine mount so I can inquire about it here. There seems to be three bolts involved in this engine mount. This one toward the front of the car

and this one on the opposite side

and the long single one which goes through the rubber mount bushing, the head of which is shown in the center of the photo here

What exactly is required to "remove" this mount? Remove completely the two bolts shown in the first two pictures here? Does that "remove" the "mount"? Is the "mount" a separate bracket type part that those two bolts go through?

MAD_MIKE

You will have to first remove the through bolt for the engine mount, and that ground strap that goes from the cam cover > mount > body.
This will allow freedom of movement. then you can unbolt the mount itself remove it. There is a nut on the other side of the through bolt, this should be welded to the bracket, so you do not want to try to remove it. Just the bolt. Take weight off the mount loosen/remove the through bolt.

The mount itself is mounted via a bolt and stud arrangement. Pull out the through bolt, pull out the down ward bolt, remove the nut, slide hte mount up. You may need to jack the engine up a bit for the mount to clear the bracket.

Strange, the pics in the FAQ are not working.

sgull

Okay thanks for that Mad Mike; I think I get it now, so will proceed.

Yeah those pictures in the FAQ weren't working for me either at first, but for whatever reason are now working okay, for me anyway. thanks again

sgull

That 17mm through bolt is so tight that using a 6-point socket and breaker bar trying to loosen only starts to round the bolt; can't get it to budge and don't want to risk rounding the bolt any more. I tried a little PB Blaster but didn't help. The other two bolts on the mount I managed to loosen okay though, with no problem. Should it be absolutely necessary to remove the through bolt? I have the engine supported under the oil pan with a floor jack with a block of wood between the jack and the oil pan. The block of wood is snug but I don't have much if any pressure pushing upward on the engine with the jack. Perhaps that's what's making the bolt so tight and maybe I need to push up some on the engine with the jack to relieve some weight off that bolt??

Lost Again

Just me but that engine looks "out of place"....like the mounts are busted and it has shifted? The first pic in post two....just doesn't look right....engine/crank too far forward? But I'm old and blind, so I'm sure I'm wrong.....

"holmes" - you have one of these, what do you think?

OP- prob too late but I'd move the breaker on the "holder" about 90....it is going to go up and jam on the tie rod. I'd want it to jam to the ground.

sgull

No the engine isn't out of place or anything like that. Mounts aren't busted or shifted. This is just the way the engine/crank is placed on this vehicle; maybe the angle of the photo makes it look odd I don't know.
Yeah I plan on putting the breaker on "holder" the other way, as shown in the video (jammed on the ground and using a length of pipe as an extension), and not as I had it positioned in my initially picture there against the tie rod.
Right now I'm stuck at the point of removing the through bolt of the engine mount as I described in my last post.

djkurious

PB Blaster, 6-point 17mm should do the trick. Looks rusted.

sgull

That 17mm through bolt is so tight that using a 6-point socket and breaker bar trying to loosen only starts to round the bolt; can't get it to budge and don't want to risk rounding the bolt any more. I tried PB Blaster but didn't help. (See my previous post here #17)

If I try to push up on the engine slightly with the jack underneath, might that possibly relieve some weight bearing on the bolt and make it possible to turn, or probably not a good idea and won't help?

In the picture the head of the bolt does show some rust, although the tip of the bolt sticking through the other side has no rust. I'd say the bolt isn't particularly excessively rusted.

MAD_MIKE

Yes, you will need to remove the weight of the engine off the mount before removal, if the mount has slid down the crush sleeve may be resting directly on the bolt.
Use a hammer, preferably a 3-5lb single jack(mini sledge) to tap on the bolt head. Better still is while putting pressure on the bolt to loosen, have someone tap on the socket.

The mount has to come off, you will not be able to install the new belt.

Where are you located? If you need a hand there may be a helpful member nearby.

holmesnmanny

I am almost certain that your engine is out of place. You have to do no engine moving to actually get the crank bolt off even using the crank holder. I have one. I have used it many times and there is plenty of clearance. This means that your other mounts must either be bad or somehow something seriously got bent. I just don't get it. That's why I assumed the fender guard was in the way or something but it doesn't appear to be on there in the picture.

You need to remove that mount. Put the jack under the oil pan, put a wooden block on top of the jack and jack up the oil pan with the block of wood just a lil bit..just enough to take pressure off the thorough bolt that you can't get off right now. Odds are that the pressure of the engine on that thorough bolt is what is causing the resistance and your issues getting it off.

Then remove the thorough bolt. Then remove those two bolts holding the mount to the frame. Then you should either need to jack up the engine again or lower it ever so slightly to get the mount out. At that point you can probably ever so slightly lower the engine to get access to the crank bolt without cutting anything anymore, which you shouldn't have cut anything to begin with. Like I said, something is wrong and you should look at your other mounts to see if they are busted.

sgull

Okay, jacking up the engine slightly with the wooden block and jack under the oil pan did the trick. That must've taken the pressure off the through bolt so allowed me to loosen the bolt so I can get the mount removed.

In regard to the engine possibly being out of place, other mounts possibly broken etc., no the other mounts look fine and there are no other apparent irregularities of the position of the engine or anything bent etc. I've owned this car since it was new and am familiar with what the engine looks like positioned where it is, and nothing has changed unless I somehow am overlooking something major but I don't think so.

I too don't get it why there wasn't sufficient clearance for the holding tool until I cut it. Here's a couple pictures of the holding tool being held (after the width cut off) there next to the pulley where there's just enough clearance now for me to insert it between the pulley and the fender well. Before cutting, no way it would fit. I suppose I could have gotten it to fit if I lowered the engine a good inch and half or so but didn't realize before I'd be needing to lower the engine for this job:



Perhaps it is just the particular placement of the engine in this particular year/model Accord where there's only that much clearance between the pulley and the fender well; that's all I can think of. I was trying to search around and see if anyone else had this issue with the tool, and didn't come up with much except this, where the reviewer said he had to cut the holding tool to fit his '97 Prelude. http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648...owViewpoints=0
But still, my vehicle is a '92 Accord DX, so I'm baffled why I had to resort to cutting the tool when it is supposed to fit. Maybe somebody else here will have an idea, but I did look at the other mounts and they're fine, as I mentioned, as is the position of the engine in general as far as I can tell.

Next step for me is get that mount off now, lower the engine a little, get that crank tool on with the breaker bar set right, and see if I can get that blasted crank pulley bolt loosened.

djkurious

I just now realized that you could not get the crankshaft tool into the socket of the crankshaft because the fender well was in the way...