sCeRaXn

So im doing some work on an 96 Accord(F22B2) for a friend of the family. Their son let it overheat on them and kept going until it cut off. So i ended up replacing the HG and getting the head milled, and while i was at it i did the TB and everything that goes along with it(wp, idlers, tensioners, balance belt, etc). I just started the car and let it warm up only to find that the coolant isnt circulating, and theres an unmistakable whine from a dry water pump.

While i had the head off i used my vac to suck out the oil/coolant goo from the cylinder jackets so i know the motor was dry, and i only filled up the radiator before starting it so that i could add the rest of the coolant and let it burp out all the air, but the coolant never drained from the radiator so nothing went into the motor. I let it warm up hoping that it would start circulating and nothing happened. This is how ive always done it with B and K motors, but im not sure if it will work on the F series. Do i need to somehow manually fill the coolant passages in the block? If so then how should i go about doing that? Take off the upper rad hose from the head and use a funnel to fill it from there? Ive been working on Hondas since 97 and this is a first for me, and i have to admit that its making me feel stupid lol

Heres what i did that might affect the cooling system:
New HG(definitely on the proper way)
New WP
New Tstat
and the radiator was supposedly replaced a few thousand miles before it blew up(though im not convinced that it was)

Any and all help is greatly appreciated

poorman212

High Point...good to see someone from the east......no too far away from you.

Anyway, I'm sure you had the bleeder open and the heat to max when you refilled the coolant. The fact you say "but the coolant never drained from the radiator so nothing went into the motor" makes me want to agree that something is blocked up in there.

sCeRaXn

Yea the heater was on and the bleeder was open.

I did what i said before and took off the upper radiator hose and filled up the block and it finally started circulating. I guess the thermostat was closed and wasnt letting water get into the block, but thats sort of weird to me because ive never had that happen with a B or K series. The radiator might be low enough in accords that the water cant back up from it into the block though.

Anyway, thats now the least of my problems. It started running rough after i figured that out and i noticed a little coolant under the radiator cap. Im hoping that residual coolant from before, but if not then the blocl is probably warped. I checked it while i had the head off and it was warped slightly but still within specs, but now im wondering of my old straight edge is still perfectly straight. Im letting it cool down then im going to do a leakdown and see if i can figure out whats going on.

chikin pickle

Chances are the block is warped. A similar situation happened with my accord (overheating in a bad neighborhood, no choice but to drive it.) and they had to mill .006" off the block to get it flat again.

sCeRaXn

Well i just did a leakdown and didnt find any problems. If its coming from a warped block then its from outside of the cylinders. It got dark no me so i had to call it today, but ill get back on it tomorrow.

Anyone have any ideas on things for me to check? Would it be possible for the coolant im seeing to be from the previous blown headgasket? Like i said, i used my vac to get out everything from around the cylinders and i changed the oil and all that mandatory stuff, so i cant imagine there being enough left in there to show up on both the bottom of the oil cap and in the PCV valve. The PCV is brand new and its already clogged up by the jizz goo. Theres only a small amount on the bottom of the oil cap(more than condensation though), but if theres enough to clog up the PCV then it leads me to believe that theres a decent amount of coolant in the oil. I havent found any signs of oil in the coolant yet. Its confusing the hell out of me

chikin pickle

Probably not block warp then. That kinds warping tends to leak combustion.

Did you drop the pan on the motor when you did the head gasket? Cause that emulsion sticks on everything. You gotta pretty much clean out the whole bottom end of the motor otherwise the residual coolant will eat the bearings up pretty quick.

Jmb106jr

The last time i had this happen it took 2-3 quick oil changes to flush all the residual goo out of that engine.

slomofo

iTrader: (1)

Dry waterpumps don't whine; you're mistaken with this unmistakable sound you're hearing. Waterpumps have internal sealed bearings, they don't make noise unless the belt is too tight or the bearing is bad.

Onto your problem... did anyone ever run "radiator stop leak" through the engine?