8 9 si

I have a 93 Accord SE. Mileage is about 196K, recently the CEL was on. Turned out to be the oxygen sensor and the bunch of other codes (code 1, and 14). I've just replaced the 02 sensor, and it seems ok for 2 weeks. Yesterday while driving it was on again, went home and check out the CEL and it's read code 43: fuel system supply. So what's I am supposed to look, or replace now? Keep in mind my fuel gauge in the dash is broken. I have to use the mileage trip odometer instead, around 320 mile and I have to refill my gas tank. Thanks.

Twixle

Check: fuel filter, check pressure at injector rail to ensure that the fuel pump is alright, and if both of those check out then clean the injectors.

8 9 si

Just change the OEM fuel filters couple thousand miles ago. I also bought one of those Chervon fuel cleaner system at Auto zone. Pour it in the tank, mileage improve a little bit (not that much). However, CEL still on. Any body else.

starchland

any idea or fix for this issue? I have the exact same thing happening. brand new o2 sensor after 2 weeks code 43 comes up

8 9 si

I could not figure it out either. And it's almost a year now. I just left that CEL on. (I get used to it now). Car is still running good, though. Heck, it's just pass emission test couple month ago with flying color. It had almost 210K now.

GhostAccord

Are you having any issues with low fuel economy or is it difficult to start, rough idle, loss of power or stalling? What type of O2 Sensor did you replace your OEM one with?

starchland

I will respond, I would like others to state their symptoms as well.

My car, sometimes when it starts, very rarely, it will sound like its dieseling and idle really low for a few seconds until it picks up. very rare. other times it starts right up without hesitation even after sitting 3 days. Other symptoms include loss of power, feels like its running rich or there is some kind of drag on the engine at times. fuel economy is great though I dont understand, crusing on the highway 30 mpg is easily obtainable. No stalling or anything. just mild drivabilty problems in the lower rpm range, says below 3.5-4k rpm.

GhostAccord

If you are experiencing driving/performance issues there are 4 things to check.
1. Fuel Pump
2. Fuel Filter
3. Injector Resistor
4. Injector

Do you have a Helms, Chilton or Haynes manual or any other type of trouble shooting Honda manual? I ask only because they contain step by step tests that you can perform to check these 4 things before you go replacing parts.

If you don't have any major driveability problems then the code is probably stemming from a poor contact between the ECU and the O2. Did you buy an after market wire yourself O2 or a Plug and play OEM replacement?

There are also tests to check that the proper voltage signals are being sent by your O2 and received by your ECU in these manuals.

starchland

thank for the guidance its much appreciated and i will follow up when i have time. I do have a hayes manual and I will look into the 4 areas. I will check the o2 sensor contacts...which reminds me I had spliced one near the ecu for my wideband which has since been removed however the wire remains uncovered. The o2 is new and an PnP unit NGK. The fuel filter is recently replaced...is there anyway you think the fuel filter was shitty brand or a dud? it was a Nippon brand. thanks for your help.

8 9 si

Just did a tune up, change spark-plugs, take out all the fuel injectiors out, clean them, replace all the seals, and o-rings from the injectiors, change the fuel-filter again, and that code still there. Fuel-pump, or fuel sender because the fuel gauge on my dash is always full? Any one else?

DeathInACRX

i have the same code but it is on a crx swapped with an ls. it is frustrating everything is new and the code still lives. im dying here because the car is not passing smog

joc1394

I guess it must be the time of year for code 43!

On Sunday, about 2-3 hours into a 4 hour highway drive, the CEL illuminated with the cruise on, set to 72mph and the car coasting down a nice steep West Virginia hill. I did not sense any difference in the way the car was driving, it wasn't lugging going up hills, etc. Everything seemed normal. I ignored the light and pulled the code at the next rest area. After writing down the code, I started the car without removing the jumper and when I shut the car back off and removed the jumper, the CEL went out. However, the code remains stored in the computer as I can still retrieve it even though the light is out when driving.

Here are my drivability issues:
1) On a cold startup (usually in sub 40F temperatures where the engine is completely cooled off), I experience a similar issue to starchland in that when the engine first fires, it immediately revs to approx 2-2.5krpms then appears to diesel or "chuggle" and sputter down to about 1krpms where it shudders for a moment before "rebounding" to a high/cold idle between 1.5-2.5krpms depending on how cold it is. It has done this for the last year or two when it's been cold outside.

2) On a warm startup (the engine is still at operating temp and has only been off for a matter of minutes), I have a loss of power issue under load. The car starts fine, goes into gear ok, but upon initial forward acceleration the tach will get to about 1.5-2krpms where the engine suddenly lugs (sometimes even drops a few hundred rpms) while continuing to press the accelerator/gas pedal before eventually coming back to life (usually only a few seconds of power loss) and running on up to the shift point for second gear (4AT) at around 3krpms where it then shifts. I've never had the problem any other time than right after startup, as in it never does it after sitting at a red-light for example.

I've read a lot of threads pointing to a "lazy O2 Sensor" and also that the aftermarket replacements such as Bosch have a high "infant mortality rate" where the sensor fail quickly. Would the above symptoms indicate a "lazy O2 sensor" or something else entirely and if so, what are reputable replacements for the O2 (Honda wants over $200 for the O2 sensor, and my car is 17 years old!)

Thanks for your help, this code is really vague.

DeathInACRX

yeah everyone keeps saying it the o2 sensor, if it was the sensor it would flash the o2 sensor light, 1 flash.
i have new everything on the swap and it never showed up before until i went to get it smogged. whats the deal? i bought a new bosch o2 and the code still comes up. i returned that sensor and bought another bosch thinking i got a bunk one, and the code 43 still comes up. this and the previous o2 sensor have less than 4 hours of operation on them so there is something else going on what? do i have to but an ngk o2 sensor?

jetta_gurl_69

okay, i read what you guys were saying. and i'm going to follow up on what you suggested but my car isn't even starting. it just died and now won't turn over. so incase none of it works.. any other suggestions?

joc1394

So far so good with 500-ish miles on my new Denso O2.

After finding an O2 Test procedure and specs in my Haynes Repair Manual, I checked the sensor on my car. The heater circuit was a dead short ('92-'93 should be 10-40 Ohms) and the sensor output was bouncy, and out of the specified range. I purchased a brand-new Bosch O2 sensor from the local auto parts store and installed it. Upon a 20 minute drive to make sure it was warmed up and working, I tested the new sensor. The heater circuit was still out of range (3 Ohms instead of between 10-40 Ohms) and the sensor output was still out of the specified range (though not as crazed and bouncy). Hoping for the best, I drove the car for a little over a week before checking it again. None of my problems were remedied during this time! The second check showed the heater circuit had moved further from the sprecified range (down to 1.5 ohms) and there was still no change from the sensor output.

I broke down and bought a Denso unit from another store upon recommendation of another HT member (thanks P!). Out of the box, before I even installed it, the heater circuit read approx. 15 Ohms (within spec!). I installed it (as well as a new fuel filter, just for kicks) on the car and again took the car for a drive. After the drive, a check showed that the heater circuit was still in range (25.5 Ohms) and the sensor output was varying appropriately within the specified range (0.1-0.9 VDC). The car drives much better, has more power, no more strange noises, and (so far) slightly better fuel economy. Also, the light has yet to come back on with a code.

So, from experience - the Bosch sensors appear to be junk, spend the extra $15 and buy the Denso. The Fuel Filter was relatively easy too (took approx 2 hours) and runs less than $20 at the auto parts store.

Maybe this will help, maybe it won't. I'm still not sure why mine never kicked one of the many O2 Sensor codes, but this is just what worked for me.

Curtis012345

i have been having problems with my JDM H22a (auto) swaped Prelude. first i had the cel code 42 (failing/malfunction fuel pump) so i replace the pump. then immediately after i got the code 43 so i replaced my O2 sensor with a Bosch universal and it passed smog and i haven't had any problems since. If this code pops up just replace the O2 sensor...