My first post was about bleeding my 91 Accord. Now I have the 92 wagon that has a low clutch pedal problem. The master and slave both are leaking and left fluid on the ground. So they both got replaced. I pumped the master 100 times, refilling the reservoir every 10 times to avoid sucking air in. I could see there was fluid still in the reservoir at the end of 10 pumps.
The problem is that the clutch pedal is only disengaging the clutch maybe 1/2" above the floor. That's not how it was when the master and slave were failing. It was maybe 2" above the floor when engaging properly.
I pumped a full quart of fluid through the system and it still only engages the clutch 1/2" above the floor. I've been bleeding my own brakes for decades. What's the secret for bleeding the 90-93 Accord clutches?? It seems way too difficult and time consuming.
So I called a pro I know. Now I am a total dumb azz.
Whenever you replace the clutch master, or even if someone else replaced your clutch master cylinder, the push rod for the master must absolutely be adjusted after the master is installed!!
Get a light of some kind. Up under the dash, where the pushrod goes from the clutch pedal to the master cylinder, mark the push rod with a sharpie so you can see if it's turning or not. Loosen the jam jut with a 12mm open end wrench, and back the nut off many turns. Spin the push rod with your fingers, screwing it away from the clutch pedal until it starts to become hard to rotate. Don't be a gorilla! Carefully feel when it starts to give resistance to turning. It's very obvious if you are not too caffeinated. Then back it off 1/2 turn. While watching the sharpie marks tighten the jam nut. Try not to let the pushrod turn. It helps to put some side pressure on the pushrod so it does not turn when the jam nut is being tightened.
This one step made the quart of fluid and so much time that I wasted, totally unnecessary. Now my clutch engages about 2 inches off of the floor just like it should. My pushrod was 5-6 turns out of adjustment.
If you do this pushrod adjustment first, the piston inside the master will have full throw and it will bleed faster!!!
Re: Clutch master cylinder adjustment and bleeding
You have to remove the cotter pin to disconnect the push rod, undo the lock nut, and turn the push rod clockwise so that it goes towards the firewall. This will make the distance greater which will clear up the free play in the clutch pedal. Then put it back on the chassis. You want just a little bit of free play before the clutch pedal starts to engage the clutch.
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