cleared CEL 17 but got new CEL codes
#1
cleared CEL 17 but got new CEL codes
Hey again.
I cleared the code 17, it was the cluster. Thanks Mad Mike.
As soon as I started it again the CEL came back on with 3 more codes, I'm not sure if I missed them, looked wrong, or if the car was blaming the VSS.
Code 7- throttle position sensor. The connector is zip tied onto the sensor, I'm thinking it's an electrical issue. I haven't tested it yet.
Code 10-intake air temp sensor. This explains why my car runs rich, couldn't see anything obvious, so I'll have to test that as well.
Code 20-electronic load detector. This is why I'm asking, I read that it was in the fusebox. I looked at the under hood fuses and saw this
The open slot isn't shown on the key on on the cover, what connects there. The diagram I saw says that it's too the main harness.
I know that the ELD is part of the fusebox, but I was looking for it to make sure it was plugged in. I couldn't find where it plugs though. Any advice?
Thanks in advance
I cleared the code 17, it was the cluster. Thanks Mad Mike.
As soon as I started it again the CEL came back on with 3 more codes, I'm not sure if I missed them, looked wrong, or if the car was blaming the VSS.
Code 7- throttle position sensor. The connector is zip tied onto the sensor, I'm thinking it's an electrical issue. I haven't tested it yet.
Code 10-intake air temp sensor. This explains why my car runs rich, couldn't see anything obvious, so I'll have to test that as well.
Code 20-electronic load detector. This is why I'm asking, I read that it was in the fusebox. I looked at the under hood fuses and saw this
The open slot isn't shown on the key on on the cover, what connects there. The diagram I saw says that it's too the main harness.
I know that the ELD is part of the fusebox, but I was looking for it to make sure it was plugged in. I couldn't find where it plugs though. Any advice?
Thanks in advance
Last edited by dh1212; 04-28-2016 at 04:24 PM.
#2
Re: cleared CEL 17 but got new CEL codes
That yellow three pin connector is the ELD. It is that, plus what's under it. It is built into the fuse box. You can't replace it like you can on newer cars. Since it's unplugged it's likely that's why it's throwing that code. Look for the connector.
#3
Re: cleared CEL 17 but got new CEL codes
Thanks Holmes
I'm curious why it might be unplugged?
What scares me is that it may blow something if I plug it in.
Do you know what negative things may happen if there is a problem with it?
I'm curious why it might be unplugged?
What scares me is that it may blow something if I plug it in.
Do you know what negative things may happen if there is a problem with it?
#4
Re: cleared CEL 17 but got new CEL codes
All the eld does is it tells the ecu to run the alternator in low output to save fuel. It's probably bad so they just disconnected it. You can test it. I forget the specs offhand. I've posted them before. You would plug it in and stick a paperclip in one of the pins that gives signal volts. Then turn the lights to the 1 position. It should change to a certain volts. Then turn it to the 2 position and it should change to another certain volts.
#5
Re: cleared CEL 17 but got new CEL codes
Thanks again Holmes, I ran out there and looked around the fusebox couldn't find the connector. I unbolted it and still couldn't find it. Where do the wires route from?
Also since I was out there I pulled the iat to test that and the sensor looks like it's covered in oil
I'm going to test it, but where did the oil come from?
The only place I can think is the pcv valve, is there anywhere else?
Also since I was out there I pulled the iat to test that and the sensor looks like it's covered in oil
I'm going to test it, but where did the oil come from?
The only place I can think is the pcv valve, is there anywhere else?
#6
Re: cleared CEL 17 but got new CEL codes
I have an update.
I was testing the iat, with my dvom set to 20k ohms I got 2.3 at room temperature. I hit it with the wife's blow dryer and it lowered to .22 ohms.
The service manual says 4-0.4 ohms, but I'm not sure if I tested that right. However it does appear to be functional.
Does that sound like a healthy sensor?
I was testing the iat, with my dvom set to 20k ohms I got 2.3 at room temperature. I hit it with the wife's blow dryer and it lowered to .22 ohms.
The service manual says 4-0.4 ohms, but I'm not sure if I tested that right. However it does appear to be functional.
Does that sound like a healthy sensor?
#7
Re: cleared CEL 17 but got new CEL codes
Those sensors are like 15 bucks and it looks OEM so it's probably just old. Just get another one.
However it tests similar to a coolant temperature sensor. It should be around 2k or so at room temperature and it will go down to 200 at 180 degrees so it actually appears to be testing fine but that oil that is on it could be causing it to overheat. You could try to just clean it all off and reuse it. It might work.
However it tests similar to a coolant temperature sensor. It should be around 2k or so at room temperature and it will go down to 200 at 180 degrees so it actually appears to be testing fine but that oil that is on it could be causing it to overheat. You could try to just clean it all off and reuse it. It might work.
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#8
Re: cleared CEL 17 but got new CEL codes
The sensor works but I have a huge problem. I went to put it back in and realized that there were no threads on the sensor. The sensor just spins in the hole. I didn't realize that the threaded portion I think is stuck in the intake manifold.
What do I do?
Please help
What do I do?
Please help
Last edited by dh1212; 04-30-2016 at 05:56 AM.
#9
Re: cleared CEL 17 but got new CEL codes
Nevermind that last request, I pulled a new manifold chamber.
The old one looks like **** on the inside, but the threads came right out of the old one after I pulled it.
I also grabbed a new IAT at the yard too. What's weird is the code is gone now, so the sensor must have been bad, even though it didn't seem like it.
There is only one code left and that is the TPS. it's colder than *** outside right now and I just spent all morning with a manifold, and don't feel like testing it now.
Thanks for all the help Holmes.
The old one looks like **** on the inside, but the threads came right out of the old one after I pulled it.
I also grabbed a new IAT at the yard too. What's weird is the code is gone now, so the sensor must have been bad, even though it didn't seem like it.
There is only one code left and that is the TPS. it's colder than *** outside right now and I just spent all morning with a manifold, and don't feel like testing it now.
Thanks for all the help Holmes.
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