thefew

I have a 1991 Honda Accord station wagon (Aero Deck). I had to pull the engine (F22B Japanese Domestic Motor from a 1993 Prelude) to replace the front and rear main seals. We got everything back in and it runs fine. BUT the check engine light is on. The code that I pulled was one long flash on the S light or a 10 for the Air Intake Temperature Sensor. I replaced the sensor, reset the computer, and same problem. When I start the engine the CEL comes on, and the S light (indicator light on the dash telling you the transmission is in sport mode) flashes rapidly non stop. So I read the codes again and came up with six short flashes on the CEL or Water Temperature Sensor. I put a new water temperature sensor in, reset the computer, fired it up, and same problem. CEL is on and S light is flashing. I checked the codes again, and I am still getting six short flashes on the CEL. Any ideas?

I wil post pics tomorrow of what I have done so far.

So I took a good look at the connector in the morning light and the wiring is damaged on the back side of the connector. I need to extract the pins from the connector and repair the wiring.

thefew

So quick update on what I have done. We found a broken wire on the water temperature sensor where the lower radiator hose attaches to the engine. I scavenged a used connector and spliced it in, reset the computer, and same code...six flashes on the CEL and one long flash on the S light. Same problem...open or shorted wiring on the water temperature sensor. Question...is polarity an issue with these sensors?

thefew

Problem solved, new problem found. It turns out the water temperature sensor connector was plugged into the cooling fan switch b sensor and vice versa. The wiring was broken on the connector plugged into the fan switch b sensor. So I repaired the wiring and plugged in the connectors properly. Once the plugs were reversed the CEL went away. The two plugs are close together, and my old wiring harness has come apart a little, so it is not obvious which connector goes where. So everything was cool for a few days...and the CEL comes back on. I pull the codes and get a code 16 fuel injector. I did a little research on this site and found out the most likely culprit is the main relay. It is under the dash near the steering wheel. I buy another one, install it, and the CEL is off again. Then we go for the last smog check, and the car barely passes. I looked at last years sheet and the car passed with flying colors. So I break out the timing light, and sure enough the car is running rich because the timing is off. I adjusted the timing, replaced the oxygen sensor (it had been a few years), and the car is running great.

thefew

Yesterday, the car started running really rough at idle, and during initial acceleration. It is doing this a lot. Once we get up to speed things tend to smooth out. I am going to work on the car, and I will post updates as I figure things out. No CEL so this problem will be a little more fun to figure out.

thefew

I did a little more research, and the problem seems to boil down to either plugged EGR ports or a bad distributor. I cleaned the EGR ports once, and it is not too hard to do. A new distributor is ~$140, so I will clean the EGR ports first. I pulled the vacuum line on the EGR valve as some posts suggested, and the problem did not go away, it got worse...so I will clean the ports anyway. Maybe it will fix the problem, and new covers for the ports are about four dollars at the dealer.

thefew

It is Saturday. A good day to work on my Honda. I pulled the spark plugs. One was thoroughly fouled with oil, a second had a bit of oil, and the other two looked normal. So it turns out spark plug tube seals don't fail that often. Autozone, O'Reilly, and Honda did not have them in stock. I ordered the parts and I'll post an update after I install the new seals.

holmesnmanny

It would be best to swap in an ecu from the 93 prelude

thefew

I agree with you on the ECU. I just pulled my ECU and it is a PT3, so I bought a P39 on eBay. I will post an update after I install the new ECU

thefew

I installed the new spark plug tube seals and started her up. She is still running rough. I pulled my distributor cap and the rotor was badly corroded. The cap cleaned up OK on three out of four contacts, so after a long search for the right cap (The JDM gods were laughing at me) I ordered the correct cap from a guy on Amazon. This is after two other parts outlets sold me the wrong cap. The correct part number (I hope) is 30102-PT2-026...The rotor was easy to find.

I also pulled my fuel injectors and cleaned them using the syringe method I saw on Youtube. One of the injectors is missing the little plastic piece at the top where it plugs into the fuel rail. I hate to second guess the engineers so I will probably replace this injector. I will put a pic up tomorrow for any advice. I also bought new O-ring kits for all four injectors...the old ones were dried out and cracked...not too good when you are talking about fuel.

What is the resistance range for 4th gen fuel injectors? Anyone?

poorman212

Resistance is between 1.5 and 2.5 on the 4th gen Accords (using US spec's). BTW - the plastic "thing" is a filter of sorts - it is a fine screen mesh type of thing.

thefew

I replaced the bad fuel injector with a brand new one and installed new NGK Iridium spark plugs part number ZFR6FIX-11. The new distributor cap doesn't get here until Tuesday, but I fired up the car and took her for a drive. What a difference new spark plugs, new rotor, and clean/new fuel injectors makes. I still need to set the timing, and my new distributor cap is supposed to be here on Tuesday. So far so good...Thanks for the information on the fuel injectors. That was a big help.

thefew

I installed the new distributor cap yesterday, and the part number I referenced does fit my TD-60U distributor. That is it for this thread unless a question pops up.