Ace of Spades

Car Specs:

1991 Accord LX
2.2L 4cyl.
5spd trans.


New here. Just can't figure this out. I went and installed a new radiator as stated above and since then, I can't get the dang thing started. I replaced my Main Relay a couple of months ago so I doubt that's it. I checked all my connections that I had to disconnect to get the old radiator out (Fan hook-ups) and everything else that looks obvious. I replaced the plugs and cap as they looked like they needed it. Not sure where to turn from here. Any suggestions? I didn't disconnect anything else in this installation and all the grounds look good. Hmmm.....

Thanks in advance!

Ace

.bagged

Are you getting power?

Ace of Spades

To start or do you mean to the distributor?

The battery had to be charged after the car sat there for a couple of weeks but it is good to go.

Ace of Spades

I guess I should've said it cranks over but doesn't even try to start.

KatyHonda

First task on a no-start is to determine what's missing, "fuel or fire".

Fire or ignition spark is easier to diagnose and should be first choice. Pull a wire, install an old spark plug, and ground plug to the body. Have someone turn the engine over while you look for a nice, hot (blue) spark across the plug gap. If you have spark, the problem is likely no fuel.

No spark usually means a problem w/ igniter or coil. It's very difficult to determine which, but you can measure the resistance of the coil primary and secondary to determine if either is open (failed). You need an accurate VOM to measure the secondary resistance accurately if it's not totally open. Coils are more vulenerable than the igniter in my experience.

Fuel delivery can be crudely checked by cracking the bleeder plug on the fuel injector manifold. If you get a nice spray of gas when cracked, you have fuel pressure. If nothing, well you've found the problem, now why?

Loss of fuel pressure boils down to two problems, no pumping or blockage. Listen for the fuel pump to come on for 3-5 secs after the ignition switch is turned to "ON". If no sound, you have bad main fuel relay, bad wiring, or bad fuel pump. Check for power to the fuel pump at the pump. If no power, main fuel relay. If power available, bad pump or bad pump ground wire (unlikely but possible).

If pump is running, then fuel filter or fuel line is blocked and causing low/no fuel pressure.

good luck

Chiovnidca

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ace of Spades &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just can't figure this out. I went and installed a new radiator as stated above and since then, I can't get the dang thing started. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you have the thermostat housing unbolted?

Ace of Spades

I disconnected the hoses from the radiator and the wires from the fans, but that is it. I didn't do anything to the thermostat housing. What would be the problem if I did, for curiosity's sake?

Ace of Spades

I know for sure that I have fuel because my friend was over and did that test already. And as far as the spark goes, even after replacing the cap, rotor, and spark plugs (they needed it wether it was the problem or not), I still don't get any spark. Not sure if the place I am doing it is gonna give me a good ground but I can't see any spark. Which direction would you turn from here?

Thanks!

Chiovnidca

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ace of Spades &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I disconnected the hoses from the radiator and the wires from the fans, but that is it. I didn't do anything to the thermostat housing. What would be the problem if I did, for curiosity's sake?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The main ground wire to the ECU is bolted to the t-stat housing. It's not unusual for people to forget to bolt it back down after changing the t-stat. Just taking a stab at it.

Chiovnidca

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ace of Spades &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I still don't get any spark. Not sure if the place I am doing it is gonna give me a good ground but I can't see any spark. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Pull a wire off one of the plugs, stick an old plug in the wire and hold against the valve cover. Have someone crank the engine over while you watch the plug for spark.

WanabVTEC

you might not have hooed up the ground.. same thing happened to me.. right BEHIND the thermostat is another plug.. pale light greenish in color.. make sure it is hooked up...

Ace of Spades

As stated, I only took off the hoses from the radiator and undid the connectors to the two fans. I have plenty of fuel and no spark. The spark plugs are deep down in the spark-plug well's that are in the valve cover. The spark plug wire has a long tube at the end of it to reach the spark plug in the hole. I took out one plug (I think cylinder #1) and touched it to a ground while having my wife turn the key to start and no spark. I took a reading underneath the cap on two screws and got 11vdc to ground when the key is in the on mode. When the key is turned into the start mode, I get erratic voltages and that's all I can say about it. No grounds were disconnected and no other wires disconnected that I know about. Unless the yard knomes did something while I was sleeping that night. So, where do I go from here? Need assistance! Send help! We are going down captain!

spooledu

for some reason im beginning to think that this doesn't have to do with your radiator swap considering you touched nothing to effect your starting the car.
is your car cranking or is it clicking even with power?
you might have a bad starter...might want to check that out?

Ace of Spades

My car is turning over and is not clicking at all.

KatyHonda

If you are sure you're not getting fire, then:

Check the Blk/Yel wire into the distributor by disconnecting the connector and checking for voltage at the Blk/Yel wire pin w/ keyswitch "ON". If you have no voltage, then ignition switch is faulty.

If you have voltage in the Blk/Yel to the distributor, then ignitor or coil is bad. Check the coil as described earlier. If coil checks OK vs. specs w/ a good VOM, then ignitor is likely fault.

Check that rotor is not cracked and allowing spark to short to ground. A new rotor is easiest way to be sure of this.

good luck

Ace of Spades

There is one thing that I forgot to mention but have no clue if it really matters at this point. The old radiator that I removed was made of plastic. The new radiator that I installed is all metal. Is there a chance that it being all metal might have something to do with the grounding problems some people have or is there no tie between that and everything else? I was just thinking it might be the source of the problem but I can't be for sure. Any other suggestions? Thanks!

Ace

Ace of Spades

Anyone? Anyone? Bueler? Bueler?

daveedd357

how bad did the car overheat when the radiator went? because the head gasket may be blown. the water/antifreeze that you are using may be entering the cylinder diluting the mixture

Maxx PARANOiA

I know you said that you checked all the obvious, but I"m going to ask this anyway....did you check any and all fuses? I had this problem once (not from replacing my radiator) and I felt a little stupid after I realized why it wasn't starting.

rotarypower

Hey Ace:

I have the same problem!!!!! I have a 1990 Accord EX 4DR Auto, the upper radiator hose blew out, spewing coolant all over the engine compartment. So I replaced it and went ahead and replaced the lower hose also. Well, I had to remove the fans to get to the stupid constant torque "spring" clamp on the lower hose. Had to disconnect and remove the fans, etc (but did not replace the radiator). I also drained and replaced the coolant and the oil (and filter). I thought it would be a good thing to also just go ahead and replace the 4 spark plugs too. When I pulled the plug wire boots, they were all coated in oil. Replaced them w/ Bosch platinum plugs.

Anyway, I got her all buttoned up and tried to start her, and sure enough, won't start. It turns over fine (I eventually killed the battery so I had to recharge it). Didn't seem to be getting fuel at first, so I suspected it had to be the main relay (sometimes I could hear the fuel pump priming, others times I could not...also, every Summer I have the problem that somtimes the car will not start when HOT). So, I went thru the pain of pulling the relay, and performed the first relay check in the Haynes manual, which applies voltage to pin 6 and ground to pin 8, then check continuity across two other pins (forget which ones). Anyway, relay didn't click when I performed this test, so I assumed it was the problem. Well, just got back from Honda dealership ($70) for new relay, just now installed it. Guess what, car still won't fire up.....I can now hear the fuel pump everytime, I can smell gas after hitting the accelerator for a while, the starter rotates the engine perfectly.....she just won't fire up!

I am wondering if the coolant which splashed all over the engine could have shorted out something??? How do I check the coils and ignitors?? Could the coolant cause them to fail/or not work???

Ace...if you figure out your problem please update this thread so that others can benefit from your experience (like me!)

Thanks

Ace of Spades

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daveedd357 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
how bad did the car overheat when the radiator went? because the head gasket may be blown. the water/antifreeze that you are using may be entering the cylinder diluting the mixture</TD></TR></TABLE>


The car didn't overheat at all, but how would that keep it from starting? Don't think that's the problem but thanks anyway


Modified by Ace of Spades at 7:55 PM 10/30/2004


Modified by Ace of Spades at 7:56 PM 10/30/2004


Modified by Ace of Spades at 7:57 PM 10/30/2004

Ace of Spades

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Maxx PARANOiA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know you said that you checked all the obvious, but I"m going to ask this anyway....did you check any and all fuses? I had this problem once (not from replacing my radiator) and I felt a little stupid after I realized why it wasn't starting.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, I checked the fuses. They all look good.

rival12

if it cranks over, then it could be your ignition switch, try holding the key up when you start it, instead of turning the ignition and letting go, don't let the key go all the way back, hold it up, and if the car stays started then its your ignition switch. goodluck

Ace of Spades

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rival12 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if it cranks over, then it could be your ignition switch, try holding the key up when you start it, instead of turning the ignition and letting go, don't let the key go all the way back, hold it up, and if the car stays started then its your ignition switch. goodluck </TD></TR></TABLE>

eh?

bluecivic107

You replaced the plugs and the cap...

I think this might be related to your problem...Double check your ignition wires connection to your dizzy. Check the sequence of your connection...