brake vibrations over and over again what the heck
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brake vibrations over and over again what the heck
I work on brakes for my job. But this accord of mine I have had to turn the front rotors like every 2 or 3 months. Any ideas why. Honda rotors and Raybestos pads. Is the pads the problem?
Last time you press the brake and if you were going down hill at 60mph the steering wheel would shake the hell out of your arms. Now shakes again at about 30-40mph.
Sick of it. Solutions?
Last time you press the brake and if you were going down hill at 60mph the steering wheel would shake the hell out of your arms. Now shakes again at about 30-40mph.
Sick of it. Solutions?
#2
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Re: brake vibrations over and over again what the heck
Rear brakes are drum and adjusted perfect. I can pull it up about 3 clicks and lock them up at freeway speeds.
#3
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Re: brake vibrations over and over again what the heck
Stuck piston in the caliper would be my suspect. Are the pads getting eaten away in a weird pattern (more on the end instead of across the whole face)?
#5
Re: brake vibrations over and over again what the heck
Ok, here's the deal. It's really really simple, but most people can't put 2 and 2 together.
First of all, whenever you put your tires back on, it's completely imperative that you not only do NOT overtorque the lugnuts, but you also have to tighten them evenly. When you have a place work on your car and they take the tires off, normally some jackass decides to use the air ratchet to put the lugnuts back on instead of a torque wrench and what happens if you get 150 lbs or more of torque while your car only needs 80 lbs. Also, it's completely uneven through all four lugnuts. Then you get in the car and drive it and when the rotors get hot from braking they bend slightly in the most vulnerable spot on your rotor and your rotor is done for it. You will notice that when you leave the mechanic all is well until a day later. Remember that your rotors get extremely hot so it's expanding and then when ur car sits it contracts back as it cools. This essentially bends rotors as they expand and contract with the extra torque from the air ratchet.
Furthermore, when you have your rotor turned, all that's happening is that they are taking a slight amount off of the rotor so that it's not as bad. Turning rotors never helps warped rotors. It's not possible because the rotor is alway slightly bent. It can help make it so that the pads brake in properly but that does nothing for the fact that it's warped.
An easy way to verify is that your rotors are fine when they're cold, but when you drive them for a bit all of the sudden the vibration starts up because the rotors get hot and expand into their warped position.
So, in conclusion, always insist they use a torque wrench, or just buy your own from Autozone for 30 bucks and do it yourself when they give the car back to you.
First of all, whenever you put your tires back on, it's completely imperative that you not only do NOT overtorque the lugnuts, but you also have to tighten them evenly. When you have a place work on your car and they take the tires off, normally some jackass decides to use the air ratchet to put the lugnuts back on instead of a torque wrench and what happens if you get 150 lbs or more of torque while your car only needs 80 lbs. Also, it's completely uneven through all four lugnuts. Then you get in the car and drive it and when the rotors get hot from braking they bend slightly in the most vulnerable spot on your rotor and your rotor is done for it. You will notice that when you leave the mechanic all is well until a day later. Remember that your rotors get extremely hot so it's expanding and then when ur car sits it contracts back as it cools. This essentially bends rotors as they expand and contract with the extra torque from the air ratchet.
Furthermore, when you have your rotor turned, all that's happening is that they are taking a slight amount off of the rotor so that it's not as bad. Turning rotors never helps warped rotors. It's not possible because the rotor is alway slightly bent. It can help make it so that the pads brake in properly but that does nothing for the fact that it's warped.
An easy way to verify is that your rotors are fine when they're cold, but when you drive them for a bit all of the sudden the vibration starts up because the rotors get hot and expand into their warped position.
So, in conclusion, always insist they use a torque wrench, or just buy your own from Autozone for 30 bucks and do it yourself when they give the car back to you.
#6
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Re: brake vibrations over and over again what the heck
^^ Makes a good point.
FYI: The torque wrenches I got at Harbor Freight 6 years ago still work fine.
FYI: The torque wrenches I got at Harbor Freight 6 years ago still work fine.
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Re: brake vibrations over and over again what the heck
While some of what manny says is true. Some is not. Turning rotors does help rotors. I have turned at least 1000 rotors with no problem. We dont drive eurotrash soft rotor vehicles that require replacement. Turning rotors is a recognized and accepted practice by AHM(American Honda Motors). My question to op is are you turning off car or on car? Off car turning is not the way. The only correct way to turn a honda rotor is on car. The reason is a principle known as manufacturer's stack. Turning on car trues the rotor to the car dynamically while off car it does not. Think like this. Spindle to bearing is .001 off. Bearing to hub is .001 off. Even with a perfectly true rotor off car as soon as you install you are halfway to rotor out of spec. So a few months of driving gives the rotor a variation of .002 now you have .004 difference total instead of.002. While .001 varaition is no big deal in a single part after you stack 2 or 3 parts that adds up.
Another question is your rotor still within spec of turning. If not the rotor is fisrt of all unsafe and secondly has lost enough mass to not be able to dissipate heat as well. Overtorqueing wheel lug nuts is a very damaging practice and one to be aware of. Next question does the op have any inner tie rod movement. I have seen some repeat wheel/tire/brake vibration concerns link back to bad inner tie rods. Just food for thought.
Another question is your rotor still within spec of turning. If not the rotor is fisrt of all unsafe and secondly has lost enough mass to not be able to dissipate heat as well. Overtorqueing wheel lug nuts is a very damaging practice and one to be aware of. Next question does the op have any inner tie rod movement. I have seen some repeat wheel/tire/brake vibration concerns link back to bad inner tie rods. Just food for thought.
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Re: brake vibrations over and over again what the heck
I am turning them with a 2 year old procut onthe car lathe. And putting the lug nuts back on by hand then torquing.
I did notice today that it sidnt shake at all untill I got about 8 miles down the road. I am going to try and change out the rotors.
I also noticed I have some very minor play in the inner tie rods
I did notice today that it sidnt shake at all untill I got about 8 miles down the road. I am going to try and change out the rotors.
I also noticed I have some very minor play in the inner tie rods
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Re: brake vibrations over and over again what the heck
I had the same problem only a few months after taking the whole freaking assembly off to do the brakes. Replaced the rotors and pads. Soon after the shakes started, warped rotor... I took it to Sears and had them turn the rotors on the car and leave the pads since they were still barely used. Seems to be great now. There's a lot of opinions but a quality rotor makes a difference. The Accords were always prone to warping rotors. This is the first for me and I'm keeping track so that if it happens again I can tell how long they went. For all the work you have to do to pull the hub assembly off etc turning the rotor on the vehicle is awesome!...
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Re: brake vibrations over and over again what the heck
Thank you, I will just get good top of the line rotors, And for the person above, no panic stops and never ride the brakes.
#12
Re: brake vibrations over and over again what the heck
Okay. I machined a set of rotors that a customer had just put on. Aftermarket. As the rotor was spinning during the procedure I could see the axial runout of the vanes. Meaning, the actual thickness of the metal on each side of the vanes, ( the friction surfaces ) varied. This could cause repeated warpages.
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