brake pedal sinks to floor?
#1
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brake pedal sinks to floor?
i have a 92 accord with a 01 h22a4 and when i press the brake it like sinks to the floor and when i let off the brake and apply it again its back to the top. what could that be?
thanks
thanks
#2
Honda-Tech Member
I dunno, all I know is I changed my front then a few months later this happened. Took off the back pads, new rotors and pads and it stopped.
Just take the wheel off and see what the pads look like. Might have to take off the two bolts that hold the caliper on but that's easy.
#5
Honda-Tech Member
The Master Cylinder in your car is old enough for the Selective Service Draft, but rather than emmigrate to Canada, It's decided to buy the farm instead.
You have a condition called internal bypass; where the Cylinder's piston lip seals can no longer seal against the bore's wall.
The reason (you ask)?
Brake fluid absorbs water over the years, untill it becomes super-saturated; at which point it starts corroding metal stuff.... like Master Cylinders, rear Wheel Cylinders and also steel brake lines.
It's going to require a new Master Cylinder, an inspection of the rear brake cylinders and a brake fluid flush after all this. Please remember, you've got to remove ALL of the original fluid, or the condition will continue
P
You have a condition called internal bypass; where the Cylinder's piston lip seals can no longer seal against the bore's wall.
The reason (you ask)?
Brake fluid absorbs water over the years, untill it becomes super-saturated; at which point it starts corroding metal stuff.... like Master Cylinders, rear Wheel Cylinders and also steel brake lines.
It's going to require a new Master Cylinder, an inspection of the rear brake cylinders and a brake fluid flush after all this. Please remember, you've got to remove ALL of the original fluid, or the condition will continue
P
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#9
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quick question, Adams you said to remove ALL brake fluid from the braking system, what's the easiest way do you do it? My way would be loosen all bleed bolts and pour fresh fluid in the MC and pump the brakes. If you have another method please share.
#10
Honda-Tech Member
Yeh, all of it. Brake fluid is alcohol based and absorbs water over time.
There are several ways to do it.
The two person system:
Person #1:
Maintains fluid in the M/C reservoir and
Man's the brake pedal, ready to apply it upon command
Person #2
Calls cadence and
Operates the bleeder screws ONE AT A TIME
It goes like this:
Drain off as much old fluid as you can and refill with fresh brake fluid.
Right Side Rear First:
1) Press and hold pedal down
2) Open Bleeder screw - pedal will go to floor / hold it there
3) Close Bleeder screw
4) Allow pedal to return to rest position
Repeat 1 thru 4 until fluid runs clear and you get no furthur bubbles. Tighten off bleeder screw, check M/C fluid level and proceed to Left Rear brake.
Duplicate for the remaining positions.
You can also pick up a self bleeder set which comprises a length of hose combined with a one-way check valve. The length of hose goes on the bleeder screw and the other is submerged in a small jar of brake fluid (to preclude air being sucked back in)
It still requires two people (one to man the pedal and the other to manipulate the bleeder screw). It doesn't require the herky/jerky open/close thing with the bleeder screws, but you still need someone to close it once each is done.
Or it can be power flushed.
P
There are several ways to do it.
The two person system:
Person #1:
Maintains fluid in the M/C reservoir and
Man's the brake pedal, ready to apply it upon command
Person #2
Calls cadence and
Operates the bleeder screws ONE AT A TIME
It goes like this:
Drain off as much old fluid as you can and refill with fresh brake fluid.
Right Side Rear First:
1) Press and hold pedal down
2) Open Bleeder screw - pedal will go to floor / hold it there
3) Close Bleeder screw
4) Allow pedal to return to rest position
Repeat 1 thru 4 until fluid runs clear and you get no furthur bubbles. Tighten off bleeder screw, check M/C fluid level and proceed to Left Rear brake.
Duplicate for the remaining positions.
You can also pick up a self bleeder set which comprises a length of hose combined with a one-way check valve. The length of hose goes on the bleeder screw and the other is submerged in a small jar of brake fluid (to preclude air being sucked back in)
It still requires two people (one to man the pedal and the other to manipulate the bleeder screw). It doesn't require the herky/jerky open/close thing with the bleeder screws, but you still need someone to close it once each is done.
Or it can be power flushed.
P
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