dry_kill

Well ive been trying to find out whats wrong with my car for some time now and i cant figure it out. the car is a 1994 honda accord ex. when i turn on the car, it idles very rough and shakes for a couple seconds then stops and the check engine light comes on.



If i turn the a/c on it seems to get worse. It idles very low, around 200-300rpms. When you let off the brake and hit the gas you get a second of hesitation. But when your driving down it rides fine. Its when you give it gas from a stop or when you start the car is when the problems come. Also if i drive the car for 10 minutes and it heats up, it will not start till i let it cool down for at least 20 minutes



Ive taken the car to the dealership to see what the problem is since the car is a 1994 and does not have OBD2. They told me to start by replacing the fuel filter, distributor rotor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, and distributor cap. I replaced all of that and still nothing.



Next they told me the engine code was reading to replace the distributor housing so they recommended replacing the ignition coil, distributor housing and the main relay. I replaced those as well and still nothing.



Getting pretty pissed seeing how i spent all this money to have no effect on the car. any help would be appreciated. thanks alot

poorman212

I'd start with getting the codes and posting what they are.....which makes me wonder why the dealer doesn't know that a honda stored codes back in "86"......something is not adding up here....what is the name of the dealer you took it to???????

From there, have you or they cleand the tb and IAC?

When it will not re-start, what is missing or too much of....spark or fuel?

slimx554

definitely sounds like IAC issue. Have you checked the throttle adjustment screw? I had the same issue on my 94 ex and I was told to fill and vent the cooling system and thoroughly check the IAC.

turbomx-6

Wondering if someone one can help me out a few weeks ago my '94 accord ex began to act up like the starter was out so I replaced it with no luck, although when I jumped the starter wires she fired up. So I thought it was my ignition switch and starting it this way would not be a problem untill I got a hold of the money. Then two weeks later it's acting like the fuel pump is out but when getting towed home I dumped it in second and she strated up after about a 30 sec parked it and let it run for 15 mins. The next day nothing again. So I want to replace the fuel pump but I want to check the main relay fisrt so what clicks am I looking for?? Also before when it was working fine it would click when the CEL would go off but now it its not doing it. Did I just answer my own question??? If you read all of this Thank You very much and please help me.

poorman212

Yes I think you answered your own question....key on, cel comes on, goes off with a "click" of the main relay....car starts. CEL on, no click...no start.......

Pull the realay and inspect/test....if it fails either repair or replace.

exb18c1

get the code from the dealer to start with.there should be a code.guessing doesn't help as your dealer did.What is the milage on your car?What was done on it recently?(exept the things you mentioned).
I suspect that the EGR valve is stuck open or the control solenoid is stuck.But I don't like to guess.Give me some more info.

TOAB

No need to get the code from the dealer. It's a 94, use the paper clip method.

edit:
Step 1, Reach behind the glove box. There will be a black or maybe blue connector with 2 wires. Pull it down so you can access it easily.
Step 2, Jump these 2 wires together by jamming a paper clip into the top of it.
Step 3, Turn the key... can't remember if it needs to go to IGN or just to ON.
Step 4, Watch the CEL.

Long pulses stand for 10, short pulses stand for 1.

So 2 Longs, and 3 shorts would equal 23.

There will be a long pause between codes. All codes will be given once they repeat.

exb18c1

It should be on the report.It is important to know what code or codes were there at the moment when the car got to the dealer.Might help a lot.Maybe there were multiple codes and after changing all these parts named above some of them been fixed.It's good to compare before and after.

turbomx-6

@poorman212, Thank you for your reply and I removed the main relay to discover cracked solder points, so I'm off to get soldering equipment. Hope this works will keep everyone posted.